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New to me COMPAC 19

Started by fawsr, February 14, 2012, 10:35:55 PM

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fawsr

Yes I do ... and I think that is the same one I was considering. I have original Main and a furling jib ... didn't know if I would ever need the winch.

skip1930

#31
"Tho' I've belted you and flayed you, By the livin' Gawd that made you, You're a better man than I am, Gunga Din!"

I need the wench..errr winch.

skippster.

Salty19

#32
I never need the winch handle  Just point into the wind a bit and heave...then again I don't run super tight sheets and only run the 140% genoa in lighter breeze (maybe up to 12ish). If it's blowing harder than that I switch out to a 110% jib, thus less sheet effort is required.
"Island Time" 1998 Com-pac 19XL # 603

fawsr

#33
Anyone know what mounted here (right bulkhead)?
I am assuming it was a compass.
Before I clean off the remains would like to know if the same model is still avaialbe?



Also, my bow navigation lights are working
I  had to redo the installation of the white stern light but it is working now
The mast light is not working - the socket is in real bad shape too.

I have identified the cabin light circuit breaker (yellow wire)
The bow lights (grey wire) and the stern light (green wire) both work off the circuit with the green wire
The mast light is dead but the circuit breaker is the blue wire
I can not find anything fed by the fourth breaker (grey wire)

Any ideas?  


Also, the stern light obviously is only visible from the rear and the mast light from the front.  
Do I need an all around light to be legal in the gulf??

crazycarl

#34
looks like an inclinometer.  it tells you the heel of the boat.  there should be a small metallic ball inside with graduations along the curved tube.  sometimes they are dampened with a liquid.

                                                                 carl
Oriental, "The Sailing Capitol of North Carolina".

1985 Compac 19/II  "Miss Adventure"
1986 Seidelmann 295  "Sur La Mer"

fawsr

the black part is one solid piece of plastic and the white line is actually an adheasive foam strip - leftovers of a mount I'm thinking. Just wondered if anyone had mounted a similar looking base ...

Greene

Quote from: fawsr on March 07, 2012, 01:52:47 PM

I have identified the cabin light circuit breaker (yellow wire)
The bow lights (grey wire) and the stern light (green wire) both work off the circuit with the green wire
The mast light is dead but the circuit breaker is the blue wire
I can not find anything fed by the fourth breaker (grey wire)

Any ideas?  


Also, the stern light obviously is only visible from the rear and the mast light from the front.  
Do I need an all around light to be legal in the gulf??

Here is a picture of the wiring diagram in the CP manual.  No grey wire to be found, maybe a PO's installation.  The white all around is necessary if you plan to anchor out.  B and I usually just tied an LED lantern to the shrouds instead of adding an all around light to the mast.  The 3 AA batteries lasted about 3 - 4 nights of usage.  Simple and cheap.



Mike and B

'84 CP-16 (sold) - '88 CP-19II (sold) - '88 Com-Pac 23/3 (sold)
http://s613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/greene2108/


"I'm just one bad decision away from a really good time."

http://wrinklesinoursails.blogspot.com

Salty19

I think crazycarl is spot on.

Probably the rear plate of "Lev-o-gage", the gauge portion missing.

See this link.

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C118%7C311631&id=1329452

"Island Time" 1998 Com-pac 19XL # 603

fawsr

Thanks Greene for the schematic ... and as for the mounting pad, I hate to think what 'color' is beneath it!!

Took a break from the hull today and knocked around inside. Except for steaming light all is good electrically. Found a lot of hidden dirt dobber nests but all in all in pretty good shape. The mounting hardware for the mast base plate needs rebedding but no other problems noted.

My old style flate plate rudder has some serious galvanic corrosion. I will build an foiled rudder later this year but for now was just gonna sandblast and powder coat. The heat of powder coating precludes me from using filler so ... powder coat or fill and paint?

wes

I am not aware of anyone here who has painted or powder coated the flat rudder plate. The movement of the plate inside the upper casting as you swing it up and down will scrape off whatever coating you apply, so bare aluminum is de riguer.

The cast parts above the rudder plate (pintle and gudgeon) are a different story. Several of us including me have tried powder coating. Problem is, the cast alumininum tends to outgas during the baking process, which causes the finish to bubble. You can google "cast aluminum out gassing during powder coating" and read all about it. I did mine in black, and as long as you don't examine it too closely it looks nice.

Wes
"Sophie", 1988 CP 27/2 #74
"Bella", 1988 CP 19/3 #453
Bath, North Carolina

skip1930

As an option for the steaming light this can be done. Never show the masthead anchor light and the steaming light at the same time.

skip.

fawsr

Took the wheels off today and had the tires unmounted so I can sandblast and zinc the wheels. Whent ahead and took the hubs off too ... wow!!!
I am sure the Lord was with me on that drive back from St Louis!

I also am going to have to replace the backstay, it has a pretty good kink in it. Any ideas on where to find one pre-made? Or will/should I have to do that myself?

Tim Gardner

Never Be Afraid to Try Something New, Remember Amateurs Built the Ark.  Professionals Built the Titanic (update) and the Titan Submersible.

skip1930

#43
Any full service Marina or boat yard. I use Great Lakes Yacht Service in Sturgeon Bay, Wisconsin. Twenty minutes, $80.00. I had my ss Dolphin [holds the bow sprit down, anchored at the bow eye] made after breaking mine while sailing. While on the water. I tied my bow sprit down with a piece of line...not an easy stretch with PFD on, ladder down and a 'grab' line at the bow trailing in the water astern, just in case I go overboard in the swells.

I measured center line pin to pin and had the boat yard use swedges, no turnbuckle, of course for your CP-19 back stay you'll need a turn buckle with ends swedged.

skip.

fawsr

#44
Been awhile since I updated ... Things are moving right along. I had a couple guys (riggers) look at the backstay, they felt like the kink was not bad enough to necessitate replacing the stay ... so we'll keep it!

These are pictures of the port side:






The port side is polished down to the waterline and freshly painted below.



This is the progress on the transom ... rudder parts are at the powder coating shop:










Just getting started on the starboard side but I think it will go a lot more quickly than the first side did:  





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