My CP 23 Mark I electrical system: I'm not very knowledgeable

[BruceW]

Hi,

First of all, I never used the battery for anything on my CP 19 1993-2000. Didn't have a system on the Suncat, so only used items that had their own batteries, 2000-2005. I think I anchored out a couple times with the Precision, didn't really interact with the battery, more like I did with Suncat, except I somewhere added one of those jumpstart batteries to charge some things, run a sirius radio, etc.

Nimby, my old Slipper 17 had no battery either.

So, get the picture of someone who has little or no experience with the 12 V system?

Now, with the CP 23, 1980 model, I know it has a battery, because we used it for the depth finder, figured out the running lights work, etc. I have a mast connector, and there's a connector in the sidewall of the gas tank area.

I have this boat in a slip, unlike my previous 20 years of trailersailing. I think I'll want some charging done. I can run a cord into the boat for a charger, but there's no shore power plug, or charger, etc on the boat.

Here's what I think I'd like to do:

a. Understand better what I actually have on the boat. I do have a multi meter, but I can't remember how it works. The guy who came with me on my transport said it worked, and he is the one who figured out the above info I put in. I don't have him around to ask, since he lives elsewhere, and is busy building his own house now.

b. add something to charge the battery (I don't know what the battery is, but am going to the boat tomorrow, so can look at things).

c. add a receptacle or several so I can plug in 12-volt stuff I have: radio, fan, charge my phone, maybe add reading lights, etc.

d. what else? I have no idea what I might like to add, but I'm into keeping it simple if possible.

So, recommendations on how to get some knowledge? I found this book online, thought it might be good: http://www.amazon.com/Boatowners-Illustrated-Electrical-Handbook-Charlie/dp/0071446443/ref=pd_sim_b_1

Thanks in advance for any insights, suggestions, etc.

Bruce

[Bob23]

Bruce:
  That book looks good. Try this one also, I  have used it in the rewiring of my 23:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_sabc?url=search-alias%3Daps&pageMinusResults=1&suo=1390172023843#/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_0_14?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=sailboat%20electrics%20simplified&sprefix=sailboat+elect%2Caps%2C272&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Asailboat%20electrics%20simplified
   Remember to use only marine wire and fittings. Don't scrimp in this area or it will come back to haunt you.
Bob23

[BruceW]

Thanks, Bob! I have used Don Casey info before, and he's terrific! I might get his book too. I need a lot of splaining!

I appreciate the wire info; I'm in agreement. I'd like this done right (haha, if I can) and certainly will use the best stuff.

Bruce

[nies]

Just ordered the book, thanks.........nies

[skip1930]

Pick up a copy of 'The Nature of Boats'.

skip.

[Bob23]

Bruce:
   As I mentioned, I rewired my 23 after she first aquired me 8 years ago. I moved the main panel to the starboard side, just forward of hatchboard wall. What I learned mostly was to plan, plan , and then plan some more. Making a list of anything that you could possibly want to add electrically was helpful and drawing out a schematic really helped in the final execution. In my project, I included a main battery switch, something I felt was indispensable.
  Some of the electrical items I have are and Icom VHF radio with Commandmike, A Garmin GPS, an electric bilge pump, a small solar panel with controller that I'll be upgrading this winter, a 12v outlet to charge a phone, etc., and the factory interior lights and nav, anchoring and steaming lights, all of which have been upgraded to LED.
  So, take your time, plan it out thoroughly and use only the best wires and fittings. I sail in salt water so this is essential. Being the type to go to the extremes in quality work, I've  had no problems other than some minor corrosion is one of my original Perko nav lights. I'm not an electrician by trade but I felt the  23 was worthy of a top notch job.
   Have fun!
Bob23

[BruceW]

Thanks for the book tip, Skip; looks like a cool one I should get.

Bob23, again, I appreciate the comments! I took some photos of the various elements of the current "system." There is a control board which has switches for various things. The Miscellaneou is apparently the depth guage. There's one more spot for something else.

What was interesting is that each thing seems to separately go back to the battery; there are like 6 sets of little wire ends on top of each other on the terminals, har har har.

Also, something interesting. You know the fitting the mast lights go into there at the deck? Well, there's another one just like it back at the stern, under that gas tank cover. I wonder what I could plug into that.

Anyway, maybe this evening or tomorrow I'll practice posting pictures and get some into this thread for comments.

I am interested in that solar charger; found one online that has its own safety gizmo. It seems like putting it on the top of the front hatch would have it need a looooooong cord to attach to my battery.

Well, that's all I got for now.

Bruce

[brackish]

Pictures of your current setup would help so we would know the starting point.

The connector in the gas tank area could be for the starter or alternator wiring to the motor.  That is where mine is routed and I installed a quick disconnect so I could remove the motor more easily.  If your current motor does not have electric start or a charging alternator, maybe a past motor did.

If you have a switch plate, but everything from there goes directly to the battery, that is kind of a mess, you might need to install a main switch and put a couple of buss bars close to the switch plate and just have one lead to and from the battery.  That is excepting the bilge pump if you have one with an auto setting, that should always go direct with an inline fuse.

If you choose to install AC shore power so you can charge you should read this thread so you can understand the issues.  Even the Casey book is outdated relative to some of the info in the thread.  If you have any conductive material from your boat to the water, you should follow the current ABYC standards.  However, your usage profile may indicate solar and that would be a simpler and less expensive install than doing shore power from scratch in a manner that meets the standards.

Keep in mind that routing an extension cord into the boat, while in the water, to run a portable charger with no ELCI or GFCI protection does not meet the standard and is inherently dangerous to you and others.

http://cpyoa.geekworkshosting.com/forum/index.php?topic=7038.0

[BruceW]

Thanks, Brackish,

I think that gas-tank area  fitting might work for the connection from the motor  (Tohatsu 6 hp came with a cable that doesn't have that end on it, but otherwise would reach there).  The included cable is not long enough to reach to the battery. I'll have to check that out.

Back to charging, etc, I feel like I should get one of those flexible solar deals that has its own controller and just needs to plug in. I'll figure out whether I should use the deck mounted connection (well, if I used the one for the mast, I'd have to turn on the switch for those lights for it to work), or just run the included cable back from wherever I put the charger to the battery.

I think that after the standard lights were put on the boat at the factory, all the new stuff was just run directly: radio, depth gauge primarily, and perhaps that stern fitting as well. I'd probably want to re-do those at the time I added a charging receptacle.

[Bob23]

Bruce:
  You definitely don't want a million wires running back to the battery. I used pretty heavy cable with the negative going to a buss bar and the positive going to the battery switch. Or something like that. I only have 2 wires that don't go through the panel boax- the bilge pump automatic line and a red LED cockpit light which is on it's own waterproof switch so I can turn it on at night without going in the cabin to turn on the battery switch. However, both have thier own fuses. Make sure everything is fused. Everything. Boat fires are not fun.
  The only change I may make is to fuse the main positive cable from the battery before it gets to the switch.

[BruceW]

Very cool, Bob! I like that led light; is that so you can develop pictures in the cockpit?

I can hardly wait till I get my electrickery (stole that from someone on this site) book, so I know what you are talking about! Seriously, I do think some folks just did quick and dirty wiring, which I am not in favor of. My switch box probably needs to be replaced with one that has more items possible to list, so things are separated on their own "line" and each thing has a fuse.

[rogerschwake]

  I added two outlets for autopilot and GPS to my SunCat last summer. Bought wire through West Marine, that stuff is really pricey. Is there something from the hardware store that would do the job and save me a few bucks?

[brackish]

 I added two outlets for autopilot and GPS to my SunCat last summer. Bought wire through West Marine, that stuff is really pricey. Is there something from the hardware store that would do the job and save me a few bucks?

Best place I've found for marine grade electrical components.  Problem is selection is somewhat limited, however, they are adding stuff all the time.

http://www.genuinedealz.com/

[Bob23]

Don't use hardware store or big box stuff. In my most humble opinion, you'll regret it. I do sail in salt water so marine stuff is a must. I bought most of my stuff from the local and very small but very competitive boat shop here in my town. It's a little mom and pop shop but they are so efficient that Boaters World, a chain, decided not to open up a shop here.
Bob23

[wes]

Roger - you're right about Worst Marine. They charge full retail list price for everything.

As Bob said, don't go to the hardware store. Buy marine grade, but from a local store or online outlet that doesn't have the words "West" or "Marine" in the title. My personal favorite is Defender - www.defender.com. Excellent prices, wide selection, great customer service from real people, and they also have a brick and mortar store in Connecticut if you prefer. Highly recommended.

Wes