My CP 23 Mark I electrical system: I'm not very knowledgeable

[BruceW]

regarding LED lights, can I use the ones I see at Home Depot and Lowes that replace, say, a 40 watt bulb?

[Bob23]

I did buy some of my stuff from Defender...they are indeed great! Super fast shipping and a very easy to use website. I try to stay away from West Marine...and the local one around these parts doesn't carry much sailboat stuff. I doubt that the HD LED lights are 12volt but I can't say for sure. The HD near my house doesn't carry anything I use on the boat.
I also found some interesting things here:
http://www.duckworksbbs.com/
Bob23

[BruceW]

Here's a picture of part of my wiring. Might take me a bit to get all the ones in here:

[BruceW]

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[rogerschwake]

  Thanks for all the help everybody. I checked the prices at Genuine Dealz, there prices are half of what I paid. Here in Iowa there are few boat shops and none that know anything about boats flying all those rags from a fence post in the middle of there boat. I have to buy all my boat things off the net, hard to do when you can't pick them up and look at them. I'll be adding another sight to my favorites list, thanks again everyone.

[moonlight]

Some comments on the posted pictures and associated thoughts, including two ABYC tips of the day!

ABYC 1) no more than four connections to any one stud (be it a battery or anything else).

ABYC 2) over current protection (fuse, breaker, etc) must be located within SEVEN INCHES of the source of power (read positive battery terminal).  You can extend that up to 72" with supports, sheathing, et cetera but those are all variances from the rule which is SEVEN INCHES.

And it's Home Depot, not Boat Depot.  They've got nothing that'll pass muster.  Sure, they may even have LED bulbs (but not in the sizes you need), but remember back to why LED took 3-5 years to work the bugs out = VIBRATION.  We're not on boats that go 40mph & jump off waves, but they do move, and LED bulbs don't like that, unless specially constructed.  Wire?  Same problem.  Heavy stiff romex cracks and breaks.  Auto wire (SAE) is more finely stranded to absorb road shock and movement.  Marine wire is even more finely stranded (read more flexible) and usually TINNED to prevent corrosion.

ABYC Bonus round = the battery must be restrained so as to not move more than 1" in any direction when 90lbs of force are applied in any direction for one minute.  Provision must be made for retention/collection of spilled electrolyte (tray or box, without holes in the bottom including screws unless sealed); and connections to battery may not use wing nuts if the battery exceeds 800CCA (real nut with lock washer if greater than 800CCA).

Over 80% of the boat fires are electrical in nature.  100% of boat fires are self extinguishing at the water line.  I had a hacksaw fall on a battery once, joining the terminals.  Burnt through the blade like a fuse.  But not before melting the cap off the can of WD-40 right next to it, with sufficient remaining spark to ignite the rapidly escaping WD-40 contents.  All in the back of a GMC Yukon I still own and drive.  And there was a fire extinguisher right next to those tools too, but it wouldn't be exaggeration if I told you I probably chucked that battery 40' after hurling that WD-40 40 yards!  Spooky scary (yes, I witnessed this event in the rear view mirror having safely travelled 4 miles on paved roads and just turned into a bumpy dirt driveway); had to park in the middle of a field, open the back, and separate the "combustibles" by hand...

[BruceW]

Thank you, Moonlight! I did find out why I shouldn't use the HD bulbs I saw; the boat ones are a bit more expensive, but why not get the ones that work, and also last, huh.

Also, about the wiring; I sure was not impressed with it. I think it started out okay, but then as POs added stuff, they did so haphazardly.

Do you feel like doing any moonlighting down this way when I get going on the fixes?

BTW, that's a very good story about surviving the battery mis-hap; glad you made it!

Bruce

[BruceW]

I am wondering if I should consider this supplier, since they put a lot of things together that a newbie to electrickery (Peter, great term) like me can use.

Sure, there are likely some areas where I'd need to change what  their stuff connects to, but I'm thinking the central unit and wiring harness, plus the lead back to the battery are the prime things I need.

I'm not planning a separate electric bilge pump, but I would have a solar charger that needs to connect to battery.

Here's the link: http://www.ezacdc.com/boat-wiring-products/marine-electrical-switch-panels/eight-switch-panel/

I'm still waiting for my textbook to arrive at B&N, but I'd love the simplicity of using the above products. Thanks for any input.

Bruce

[Salty19]

Don't buy anything yet.  read the electrickery book, figure out what you want to change or add,  design your system on paper, run your design by us here on the forum, then buy the needed supplies.   It's not hard to install wiring correctly, the book will teach you how.

I wouldn't even consider the exacdc stuff.  Only a few inexpensive specialized tools are needed (voltmeter, wire stripper, connector pliers) to rig a wire to a connector, and that's the only advantage I see to it.  A nicely done connector only takes a minute or two once you know how (including heat shrink tubing).

Based on your picture, IMO, you need an everything must go sale (except the battery if it's serviceable) and the actual appliances (like nav or cabin lights) if you are Ok with them.  All that wiring is auto grade, unknown location of fuses, too many connectors on the battery, and poorly done (duct tape?) wiring connections.  Rip it out and start over.

This stuff is not too hard once you learn a little about it. That book will do wonders to your knowledge and understanding of how to make a very safe, functional and reliable system. 

[BruceW]

Thanks, Salty,

That's what I was looking for; I really don't know what I'm going to know until I know it. I'm thinking I'll ease up on next steps as you suggest, until I know more about the subject, and then make a plan.

I've decided I'll want the cabin lights to be LED; I may also decide to change out the other lights as well. Heck, I don't use the lights much. I do think I'll want aux cigarette lighter type plugs to charge things from, etc.

Looks to me like the stuff I have is standby stuff, and if I don't have to use it, I'll be better off researching and deciding the next plan. I certainly wouldn't mind replacing things with better stuff.

Regards,

Bruce

[nies]

It is my understanding that its not a good idea to mix LED and conv. bulbs on same circuit as the LED take lower voltage than reg. bulbs and the LED will burn out.......................nies

[BruceW]

You may be right; my first LEDs would be the cabin lights, which I think are a separate circuit. However, based on my new plan, I'll be reading up on things first, deciding on a plan, and then see what parts I'll need to implement the plan.

I could see a complete re-do as one possibility.

[Bob23]

Bruce:
   One word of caution. Make sure you can see the actual LED you plan to install. Some of them are a very harsh bright white to be pleasing. If you've seen ultra white LED christmas lights, you know the color.
   I found some of my bulbs here:
http://www.superbrightleds.com/#
   There is information on color, brightness and bulb size.
Bob23

[BruceW]

Very good point, Bob, and thanks for the link.  I know there has been a lot of evolution in the LED lights, and they are expensive enough to make me want to get it right.

I was thinking LEDs for cabin lights, not sure if I need/want to replace other lights until they need it. The cabin lights didn't work, so I figured it was the bulb. I just ready the chapter on the multimeter though, so maybe I should practice and check that circuit!

Wow this book is killing me; math, formulas, haha. I'll have to take notes! Oh, and I found this online resource that also helps:

http://newboatbuilders.com/pages/electricity5.html  I read up to page 5 last night.

Yep, I ordered the Don Casey book too. Maybe a zillion times through all this I'll get the picture!

Bruce

[brackish]

My initial reaction to the light issue was that I should run out and change every light on the boat, both external and internal, to LED in order to save power.  The cost of doing that right would have been hundreds of dollars.  I'm glad I didn't.  After owning the boat for several years and looking at my "usage profile" I determined that with the incandescent I can't use up the existing battery reserve even on my longest cruises which have been about 4 days.  Even having some real power hogs like a tiller pilot and pressure water installed, it hasn't been a problem.  

The only concession I made to LED's was to buy a cheap LED lantern to use as an anchor light.  Not exactly COLREG legal, but in my case, usually anchored in tree lined coves where the masthead anchor light is not visible to traffic, it is a much better practical solution to hoist it up partially so it can actually be seen.  I do use the masthead when in open water.

I will change things to LED as they go out, but not make it a mass project.

So look at how you use the boat, what you will have as charging capability, and maybe you can save your "boat bucks" for more needed items.  The one piece of advice I'll give is if you have flooded batteries that require inspection and maintenance, check them regularly.  I know from experience they will not hold a charge or have a long life if the plates are not covered.

BTW, the link from your last post not working for me.  Maybe modify the message and remove the semi colon?