Removing Teak

[Glenn Basore]

hey guys,

I want to refinish the companion way Teak and wanted to try removing them so I can work at my work bench.

I tried this once and stopped as I could not get them loose despite removing the screws, I thought maybe they were glued in place so I left them.

I would like to remove the Teak hand rail on the cabin too but am concern of not being able to get them off or back on without damaging them.

Suggestions Please.

Glenn B.

[capt_nemo]

This is the voice of experience talking. Bite the bullet and refinish them in place. Be sure to tape everything well!

My brand new Sun Cat came with absolutely no protective finish on any of the wood, outside or inside. Wanted to do a proper job by removing whatever I could to refinish at the bench but ran into the same problem as you did. Rather than take a chance on breaking or ruining the teak on the cabin top and around the companionway I coated them in place with several coats of Sikkens Cetol Marine Light. That was 38 months ago - and the finish is still going strong. I do keep a WHITE Polytarp cover over my boat when not in use for weather and UV protection down here in SW Florida.

capt_nemo

[Glenn Basore]

Capt Nemo,

Yep, you did the same thing I did.

I got real tired of repeating the teak oil every six months to keep it looking nice. 

Even using the teak oil I had to sand and tape everything off because I couldn't get the parts off the boat.

I have 3 coats of the same Cetol oil as you have used, still not really happy with the results but it does hold up better.

I'm now going over the Cetol oil with the gloss finish.

I saw several sail boats at the Lake Havasu event in Febuary and talk to a few owners, they used the gloss over the Cetol oil which really looked nice, So,,,,,,

That's what I'm doing now, just wish I could be doing the work on my bench!

I keep a tarp over my boat too.

Glenn

[Bob23]

Cetol is a very nice finish.
   I use the Teak Light on my cabin side eyebrow trims with the gloss overcoat. I also use it on my dorade box on the foredeck. The rest of my teak recieves Flagship varnish, a very hard finish but very labor intensive.
   In speaking with a tech from the Cetol company, he noted that the gloss will give some extra life to the finish. One can also recoat with Cetol over the gloss if sanding lightly first. Pretty good stuff. Not as hard as varnish but a very versatile finish. I use it on my Force 5 also.
Bob23

[wes]

 I went through the painful process of removing all my teak. It is bedded in 3M 5200 from the factory, and getting it off is no joke. Debond Marine Formula will loosen the 5200 enough for careful removal, except for the eyebrows which you are almost guaranteed to break. Plus the eyebrows are attached with wood screws, not through bolts, so you will have to drill out the teak plugs to get the screws out, a delicate operation in itself. I agree with finishing all the teak in place, unless like me your teak is so far gone that replacement is the only solution.

I'm going to join in the general enthusiasm for Cetol here.Took me a while to get used to the softer finish compared to the hardness of traditional varnish, but I have to say the UV resistance is outstanding, and when it does begin to deteriorate it doesn't seem to flake or peel off like harder varnishes; it just gets dull. Another great feature is that it doesn't require sanding between coats, although I do scuff mine up a little with 320 grit because I'm conservative that way. After a year outdoors in the North Carolina sun, my Cetol looks like new. Don't even know if I will bother with a seasonal touch-up coat this year. Be sure to pick your color of Cetol carefully.The "original" color has a strong yellow/amber tint that I didn't like. I prefer either Marine Light or Natural Teak. Even those have quite a bit of tint to them - I think this is how the UV resistance is achieved.

Wes

[Rahn]

I used to use Cetol and have been using Semcoe sealer the last few years. Since it's water based, it doesn't require sanding before a coat or two in the spring. The wood looks like freshly cut teak - no gloss.

[Craig]

I also use it on Our Horizon Cat, Kailani and find it to be the least hassle of any teak finish I have used so far. Any hard finish like Cetol will have to be stripped at some point a real pain in the A..! All I do is scrub the teak with a detergent like Spray Nine (like 409 on steroids!) and rinse to remove dirt and mildew as needed. Since our boat sits in the FL sun(without a cover) I need to add a fresh coat every 3-4 months. That being said recoating our boat is a snap and takes about an hour. As Rahn said Semco is water based so spills and cleanup are a cinch. Short of just scrubbing the teak and letting it "go natural" it is the easiest(all things considered) teak finish I have used in my 40+ years of sailing.

[Bob23]

Rahn:
  Does the Semcoe sealer build up? I just recently bought a new Adirondack Guideboat with all very high quality Cherry trim. I can't bring myself to varnish it and I wouldn't think of Cetol. It recieves a coat of oil from the shop but I'd like to seal it up a bit more but I don't need another boat's woodwork to maintain.
  I thought about hand rubbing a thinned coat of Epifanes satin varnish but haven't decided  yet. Any thoughts?
Bob23

[Craig]

The answer is no. Semco does not build up. That is one of the things  I like about it. When it starts to fade just scrub and add another coat. Because  Semco  is about the consistency  of water, it flows on  easily and soaks into the wood. Fresh drips/runs wipe up easily from fiberglass and dried spots can be cleaned off with rubbing alcohol.     Not sure how it would work on cherry but "Natural" Semco would be a good color match.

[capt_nemo]

Bob23,

Consider using Boiled Linseed Oil. Leaves surface soft, but sealed.

Saturate well, let soak a while, wipe off excess. Periodically retreat wood surface.

Try it on an inconspicuous spot to see how it works.

It is an old fashioned wood preservative and sealer. Used it on all the homemade hardwood pieces on Highland Lass.

capt_nemo

[Bob23]

   Thanks, all. Iv'e seen Nemo's boat in person and can attest to it's museum quality beauty. I'll test Semco and boiled linseed oil on some scraps before I comitt to anything. I have a friend in Barnegat Light who repairs and maintains some beautiful catboats and other small sailing craft. I'll ask him.
   Ahhh...Capt Nemo: Must you temp us with thsoe teak fiddle blocks in the photo? That's not very nice. They are beautys. I just ordered a Ronstan Series 50 for the Compac. If I lived closer, I'd commission one from you. Or steal yours!!!!!! Hahaha!
Bob23

[Glenn Basore]

Follow up question,

Can you wet sand the Cetol oil after a few days of curring?

I have 3 coats of gloss over 3 coats of Cetol ! It looks pretty good and a lot better than just the Cetol Oil it self.

I'm use to wet sanding other wood projects Ive done which really gives the wood a nice rich luster,  just don't know if you can wet sand Cetol ?

Glenn

[Bob23]

I don't know, Glenn. But I have called the tech people at Cetol and found them very helpful. The number is probably on the can.
Cap't Nemo has extensive experience with Cetol so he'll probably know the answer.
Bob23

[Salty19]

Yes, you can wet sand after curing.  Add additional coats (3-4 total, or more) to compensate for the material removed.

[capt_nemo]

Glenn,

First, for many years on several boats I have used Cetol Marine Original and Cetol Marine Light outside and inside, which are "Finishes" that build up thickness with additional layers applied and do not require sanding between coats. A light sanding before the final coat is sometimes done. Maintenance coats are applied when needed after scrubbing LIGHTLY with a Scotch Brite Pad and mild detergent, rinsing thoroughly with clear water, and allowing to dry completely.

I'm not familiar with the "Cetol oil" you mention. If is is the same stuff, YES you can wet sand to your heart's content after it has thoroughly dried (a few days).

I have religiously AVOIDED using the Gloss over the Cetol base coats for three reasons. First, I like the soft satin or matte type effect using only the base coatings. Second, if the Gloss finish weathers or rubs off (with hand or foot pressure) in spots or irregular patterns, it is hard to apply maintenance coats that present a uniform appearance. Third, to achieve a uniform base to recoat I would most likely have to sand, which I strongly abhor!

Happy sanding!

capt_nemo