Wiring Panel Woes

[MacGyver]

 
So I am planning to add a master switch, and new fuse setup, and making a new custom switch setup as well.
In doing so I came up with a few questions designing the wording to use on my new panel........

Com-Pac called the light that is located on the mid mast section giving a 180 degree flood of light, that we have used as a deck light as well somewhat..... They call that the BOW light on the original switch panel......
I consider the BOW light to be the front of the boat (bow) light that is red/green.....

So what should I call that mid mast light? Steaming or Mast head light? What do you call it?
What is the light at the top of the mast called? (I dont have one, but people refer to that one as the mast head light.......)


Now for another topic on the same issue...... In my wiring I have found the original switches to be loaded with more than what is needed..... Like for instance the NAV switch..... What is the other ON position for? I have yet to figure this out.....

The ACC switch..... what was that for? mine wasnt used......

Lastly, this is all on a 19, anyone messed with changing stuff out that can recommend parts? I am open to options, as I am currently designing it all.
When I do this on other boats it usually isnt a big deal, but I usually deal with AC and DC panels, Etc.... and the old circuits are all laid out pretty plainly, me just adding a few here and there, or replacing full panels......
On this boat, it is like a few oddities I havent really been faced with, so that is why I am asking here....... maybe someone already has this solved it so I dont have to scratch my head saying WHY anymore, LOL

Also getting a general consensus as to what a light is called will make it better for naming cause when I sell the boat I dont want someone scratching their head saying why like I am.

Thanks for the input!

One last thing, What circuits do you have on your boat and what size boat? (To help me decide to add switches or not to cover possible expansion)

Mac 

[Salty19]

 Some folks place plywood/teak etc on the vertical walls of the inner cabin bulkhead and install new panels there. The XL versions have the panels to the far lower on that wall as you sit in the cabin looking out to the cockpit. The location of the switches on earlier versions on the step is a little odd, IMO.

The light half way up the mast is called a Steaming Light.   The one atop the mast, not standard on our boats but certainly can be added:  Masthead Light. You could just abbreviate with STEAM.

If you're going to the trouble with a new panel, think through what you might add later. Things like Bilge Pump. Cockpit Shower. Cockpit light. 12V outlet or two. VHF radio. iPod player.  Depth Finder. You get the idea. Better too many switches/fuses than not enough-knowing you that bad boy will fill up fast!

I think ours are labeled:  AUX  MAST  NAV   CABIN       The aux does nothing, mast is the steaming light, nav turns on both nav lights.

[brackish]

I was fortunate that for the 23/IV version Hutchins had redesigned the wiring setup and did a nice job. Located between the top and second companionway step,  I'm fairly sure that the panel they used is the same as on the larger 27 and 35.  On the AC side, I'm only using the outlet and the charger breakers with four spares.  On the DC side I've used it all and had to move some things so I could accomodate the tiller pilot and the pressure water pump.  So I have those two on individual circuits, the NAV and compass lights on one, one labeled Cabin is lights VHF and stereo, INST incudes GPS chartplotter, Depth and speed log,  and anchor, steaming, and deck on individuals.  Eight breakers, all used.  Second pic is the direct to battery bilge pump switch, located just above the first step.

Unless you've got them all just the way you think you will want them forever, I woud advise using stick on labels.  Mine were engraved and I need to tape over some of them with their new designation.

[brackish]

And BTW, on my panel the breaker marked BOW is actually the steaming light, I would prefer it say STEAM so as not to confuse it with the forward mounted NAV light.  You might notice that the panel has four screws and when they are removed I can pull the whole thing out to work on it if necessary but the wire bundles, while neatly done make pulling it out awkward.  I can also slide under the companionway step, lay on my back and comfortably get to everything.  I did have to add another ground strip, jumped to the breaker ground bus, to accomodate all the items I have hooked up.   The back panel is a piece of ply covered with black HPL.  I was able to remove the screws that hold it in place from the rear, push the panel through its hole and leave it connected and hanging while I made the cuttouts for the two radios.  The setup is a very nice improvement on Hutchins part.

[kahpho]

ACC would be an abbreviation for ACCESSORY. Just an extra position to be used for a anything you wanted to add.

I would suggest leaving a service loop when rewiring the panel. It facilitates pulling the panel out to work on it easily. You may already know about this though having done others already. For those who haven't, I like to leave enough length on the wires to allow a sweeping "S" shape in the wire loom and tie neatly with tie wraps. Sometimes a simple loop shape is easier depending on where things are located. As the panel is remounted the wiring loom should sort of fold up inside without kinking or snagging on anything. Hope I explained that OK. Makes working on it latter much easier.

Good luck on your projects. They do keep us occupied don't they.

mel

[wes]

Hey Mac - I redid the wiring on my 19 and decided to add a 5th switch for an anchor light, which I mounted using a technique shamelessly cribbed from Billy. Here's how I decided to label my switches. ACC, for Accessory, powers my instruments - depth sounder, GPS, and the tiny light inside my Plastimo compass. I posted a thread last year my full rewiring project.

Wes

[crazycarl]

not complete yet, but this is what i came up with.  wired for 2 house batteries.

anchor light is the mast head light.

acc 1 is the steaming light.

acc 2 is for the vhf, depth sounder, gps, and 12v plug.



you could also use a 3 way switch on the running lights.  throw it one way and the bow and stern lights come on, throw it the other and just the stern (anchor) or mast head (anchor) light comes on.  center position is off.

[NateD]

you could also use a 3 way switch on the running lights.  throw it one way and the bow and stern lights come on, throw it the other and just the stern (anchor) or mast head (anchor) light comes on.  center position is off.

I've had switches wired like that before, and I hate them. It's nice to be able to run your finger along and make sure ALL the switches are OFF, but then you have that one switch that you have to remember to keep centered and you have to stop and flip it back and forth and make sure it is right in the middle. Maybe it wouldn't bother other people, but it sure bothers me.

[skip1930]

So called Factory wiring diagram looks like the CP16, 19, 23*, 25*   ** add more cabin lites

Forces proper use of steaming lamp.

skip.

[crazycarl]

I've had switches wired like that before, and I hate them. It's nice to be able to run your finger along and make sure ALL the switches are OFF, but then you have that one switch that you have to remember to keep centered and you have to stop and flip it back and forth and make sure it is right in the middle. Maybe it wouldn't bother other people, but it sure bothers me.

yes i can see where it may be difficult determining the switches position, unless... the switches are lit when on. 

[MacGyver]

Thanks everyone for the responses.
I have finally decided on the fuse panel and main switch.
My panel will be custom made. Going to run 6 switches, still deciding on where to put it.......back in the original spot or in a new location. But they will be round rockers. They may or may not light when on.
As far as naming, I love the STEAM idea. That is fantastic.

I feel if I exceed 6 switches/ circuits in a CP19........then its time for a bigger boat. LOL

Thanks everyone, and if anyone has anymore input please keep posting.

I will post pictures once i get everything in and all that.

Mac

[Bob23]

I have lighted switches on my 23. When the anchor light's on, the lighted switch can drive you nuts because the light's on all night when your'e trying to sleep! Keep that in mind when you locate your panel. I put a small piece of electrical tape over the switch...I don't like lights on when I'm sleeping.

Bob (zzzzzzzzz) 23

[Ivo]

Hi Mac,

I decided to use this arrangement on my 23.

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I started out with the basic 4 switch arrangement like most others have had.  The NAV and BOW switches didn't seem logical to me either.  I decided to use the 3-position NAV switch as the SAIL/STEAM switch.  In the SAIL position, the bow and stern lights come on.  In the STEAM position, the bow, stern, and steaming (mid-mast) lights come on.  This way, one switch has to change position whether I'm under sail or power at night.

I made provisions for anything else I thought I might add.  The PUMP switch is for a washdown pump.  I decided to keep the bilge pump separate and bought the Rule switch panel.  I could have saved a few $$$ and incorporated it into the 10 circuit panel.  My thought is that by keeping this one "special", it wouldn't be turned off by accident.  My ACC. is used for the 12v outlet next to the battery selector.

I gave every device its own switch and circuit breaker and decided to keep it all in the same location as the original.  I like to be able to just reach in and change switch positions without entering the cabin.  I stole Wes's idea and put the switch descriptions above instead of below.  I really like brackish's arrangement, but that would require way too much rework...although I haven't found a way I like better to mount a vhf radio and a stereo.

Ivo

[moonlight]

Where you can, utilize the ABYC color codes for your wiring, (presuming you pull new wire) versus whatever is handy.  Really helps sort things out in the future if everything is uniform.  Whatever that hand drawn wiring diagram (above post) was, I understand the picture, but the colors are screwy screwy; the only one used correctly was red.
I'd list them all but there's an easier way; every Worst oops West Marine catalog lists the appropriate colors.  If you don't have access to one, let me know and I will post the appropriate table.  Also, use only marine grade tinned copper wire, NOT SAE wire.  The stuff at NAPA doesn't cut it; the strands are thicker and thus stiffer and more prone to breakage (they can't take the vibration), and of course household solid strand romex is even worse.

[brackish]

Where you can, utilize the ABYC color codes for your wiring, (presuming you pull new wire) versus whatever is handy.  

Good plan, but potentially expensive. Where I live, no marine wire sold by the foot, so if you need 3' of a particular color, you have to order 25' of each color which you may never need again.  So for my rewires it was all black tinned stranded marine wire with a wrap of colored vinyl tape on each end that indicated the proper color for the run.  Yes an open mid run might be confusing but that's what they made multimeters for.