1979 ComPac 16 Restoration

[kickingbug1]

hey jason have i got a project for you an old  goodyear 5 horse outboard   year unknown. im gonna bring it home from the cabin and see if i can start it.

[MacGyver]

GoodYear!?!?!??? They made engines? wow, that is crazy

Wonder if goodyear made it or a different company for Goodyear.....

Internet time!

Mac

[kickingbug1]

   the last time it ran was maybe 40 years ago but it did run. something to fool with when the snow flies

[Ted]

I had a lot of fun restoring an old Johnson 3 HP. It's a JW10 from 1954. This thing was kicked around in my dad's garage since I was a little kid. Eventually I asked him for it and since it was so beat up and not running he was glad to get rid of it. He was quite surprised when I sent him the "after" pictures.

If anybody is interested in doing this you can find lots of resources online to assist. I am hoping to do another one - it was a lot of fun. The gas tank on this one was dented and I used dry ice and a torch to pop out the dent!



Here you can see how bad the ignition coils were:



And after:



Here was the outcome:



So, if you have an old motor laying around you want to get rid of...

[WhiteShad-O]

 Very Cool Steve,

I can appreciate the level of work and comittment it takes to cut the top off.  Once its off there's no point in not doing an extensive and complete job.  I've done some stringer repairs and home style fabrication and its not easy to do a good job.

I just bought and trailered home a 1979 Compac 16 this afternoon, no kidding.  It has a nice little 4 h.p. yamaha and is really in outstanding condtion for the year, except that the aft quarter bunks are rotted.  Strangely, the cockpit is solid all over and the gelcoat on the entire boat is shiny. The forward cabin area has a replaced floor and is pretty decent to my mind. Not a single blister on this boat, except up top, above the rub rail there is a quarter size spidered area thats nothing to look at and certainly not soft.

What I'm wondering Steve or anybody else who knows; does anyone have an idea of how to repair the rotton bunks, short of doing what Steve did?  They are all dried out now, but without any structure to speak of . 

Thanks and great work to Steve. 

[WhiteShad-O]

Steve,

I am contemplating replacing my aft quarter bunks. They are entirely rotted.  the forward portion from about the companionway forward have has been replaced, but it isn't in my opinion all that finished of a job and will likely not contour well with the bunks if I redo them.  I would like to have a level floor all the way to the step up in the vberth. I am no way going to split the deck from the hull as you did.  I'd like to keep this as simple as possible to wind up with some functional bunks and restore whatever stiffness they are supposed to provide to the hull when tabbed to the hull. Can you tell me what type of coring material or wood you used to do your bunks and what type of cloth you would recommend (10 oz. cloth?).  Because its closed off, I intend to use epoxy if I do in fact decide this little boat deserves the new bunks.  The polyester would be difficult to work with due to ventilation down there.  Any suggestions you have or ideas that you feel may be helpful for grinding out the old bunks where they are tabbed in would be helpful.  I am concerned with hard spots in the hull if I don't tab these properly.  Is that a valid concern?

thanks for your help.  Anyone that knows about this, please comment.  I just figgured Steve is now somewhat of a professional having the experience of redoing his 16.

Eric Klee
Hudson, fL

[keyskid]

Eric-
Here are my 2 cents.  If I missed anything or something is not clear let me know. Hopefully it helps answer your questions.
1. I used 1/2" marine grade plywood from Home Depot (~$80/sheet).  Before installing I sealed it with epoxy. The epoxy was thinned down with acetone to try and stretch it out as far as possible.
2. Since I had the top off, I was able to use leverage and bend the wood bunks up until they broke free.  I then removed the excess tabbing with a paint scraper and a razor scraper.  The short vertical ribs that run the length of the boat had been replaced with 2x4s that were not tabbed in so those came right out.  You might not be so lucky. Any suggestion I make to you would be conjecture but I assume it will involve an oscillating or circular saw to cut out a major part of the wood and maybe a dremel to CAREFULLY cut the tabbing.
3. For tabbing I used a 2" roll of cloth from Worst Marine (PT#190001) and West System epoxy with 206 slow hardener as it was a hot and humid summer. If you go the epoxy route I'd recommend the pump kit as it saves a lot of time.
4. Based on my understanding, your hard spot concern is valid.  It is important that the tabbing allow the hull to flex somewhat as a pinned joint rather than a fixed one. This lessens stress concentrations at the tabbing points. All I did was tab the parts in. The vertical ribs were tabbed on both sides and the bunks were tabbed only on the top. I epoxied the joint between the bunk and the rib.  For the hull attachments I didn't epoxy the parts in first first or create a fillet along the edge.  I only used tabbing. That allows it to flex as needed. Some hardcore boaters I know said they cut a piece of foam or weather stripping to attach between the bulkheads and the hull.  Then the tabbing would hold that strip in. This really allows it to flex as needed.  I understood the concept but didn't apply it.
5. If you eliminate the "well" down the center of the cabin, make sure to leave some access holes to allow for ventilation and sponging out any water that may get in. You might have to add some additional vertical ribs for your forward filler piece to sit on unless you can balance the joints on top of a single vertical rib (might prove difficult).  I'd probably recommend that you do the bunks first and then sister in another set of vertical ribs to support your filler piece down the center. You will have to rethink the cockpit floor support.  You will also be eliminating a bit of storage space as well as "headroom". or is it "footroom"?
6. Your bunks are split the way they are because I'm pretty sure it is impossible to fit a piece of plywood the entire length of the bunk in through the companionway.

[kickingbug1]

    steve you have to come to the clr and show off your handiwork

[keyskid]

If anyone is interested, this boat is for sale.  Having to sell due to fact that wife wants a bigger boat! 
Here is an opportunity to get a 1979 quality hull with 2012 upgrades to interior!

http://cpyoa.geekworkshosting.com/forum/index.php?topic=6002.0

[gtryder2000]

Steven,

Great job on your CP-16, and terrific photos! Your boat came out real nice!! I have a 1980 CP-16, which hasn't seen water since I bought it in 2005. It had an "unfortunate incident" the day I bought it    I won't be trailering it, even across a parking lot again, without first lowering the mast. Anyway, I've been doing a little work here and there, to fix the damage. But I'm now considering a major restore for other reasons, mainly because of water damage to the interior (some old, but surely more since I've owned it.) I'm debating whether to remove the deck, and I hope to consult you, regardless of whether or not I go that extra yard. I need to really assess how bad it is down under, and how difficult the access is (fortunately I'm on the thin side.) Thanks for chronicling your project!!!

If I decide to do a major restore (and I know the results will reflect that effort), I'll start a new thread for it... we'll see how it goes.

I have created an album to document the "before" condition of "Mister Breeze". Hopefully there will be an "after"!

http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/CPYOA/library/com-pac%2016%20pics/Mister%20Breeze%20in%20CT%20-%20ComPac%2016?sort=6&page=1

Gary

[skip1930]

I luv's the Seagull O/B.
Capital idea for a nicely redone CP-16.
You must have been a`glutton for punishment.

skip.

[keyskid]

Steven,

Great job on your CP-16, and terrific photos! Your boat came out real nice!! I have a 1980 CP-16, which hasn't seen water since I bought it in 2005. It had an "unfortunate incident" the day I bought it    I won't be trailering it, even across a parking lot again, without first lowering the mast. Anyway, I've been doing a little work here and there, to fix the damage. But I'm now considering a major restore for other reasons, mainly because of water damage to the interior (some old, but surely more since I've owned it.) I'm debating whether to remove the deck, and I hope to consult you, regardless of whether or not I go that extra yard. I need to really assess how bad it is down under, and how difficult the access is (fortunately I'm on the thin side.) Thanks for chronicling your project!!!

If I decide to do a major restore (and I know the results will reflect that effort), I'll start a new thread for it... we'll see how it goes.

I have created an album to document the "before" condition of "Mister Breeze". Hopefully there will be an "after"!

http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/CPYOA/library/com-pac%2016%20pics/Mister%20Breeze%20in%20CT%20-%20ComPac%2016?sort=6&page=1

Gary

Gary-
Yep you have quite a job on your hands! She is gonna look great when you are done! I am a big guy so there was no option other than removing the deck.  However, my work included chipping down the keel concrete to make it flush which really required extra access space.  All it took was some 2x4s and a bunch of blocks I had laying around.  However, my hull and deck were NOT sealed with 5200 as is common.  You might check how yours are attached as that could add considerable work to the process.  If you think a sketch of how I did the lift would help just let me know.

I luv's the Seagull O/B.
Capital idea for a nicely redone CP-16.
You must have been a`glutton for punishment.

skip.

Skip-
The seagull is 16 years older than the CP! When I got it the piston was seized.  It came completely apart and completely back together also!
There were a few "what the heck am I doing" moments along the way...