Bronze Porthole Removal

[thomeng55]

I have some leakage on some of the bronze portholes on my CP27   I took off the bolts but they are so tight I cant get them off.  I am working from the cabin side.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

[DougN]

I did this on my cp23 a few years ago. First I removed the pins from the hinges to remove the inner frame and glass. Next I used a heat gun to warm up the adhesive. I was able to drive some wooden door shims between the frame and the wood paneling. I slowly kept heating the frame and tapping the shims deeper until the adhesive finally let go. I was a lot easier than I thought it would be. I re-bedded them with butyl tape. It's been about 4 years no leaks so far. Good luck.

[thomeng55]

I did this on my cp23 a few years ago. First I removed the pins from the hinges to remove the inner frame and glass. Next I used a heat gun to warm up the adhesive. I was able to drive some wooden door shims between the frame and the wood paneling. I slowly kept heating the frame and tapping the shims deeper until the adhesive finally let go. I was a lot easier than I thought it would be. I re-bedded them with butyl tape. It's been about 4 years no leaks so far. Good luck.

Thanks... I'll give it a shot next warming we get here.  I have a 61 degree day in Chicago (in JANUARY!!) so I took advantage and did some work.  Hopefully we'll get another warm day before March.  Thanks

[Craig Weis]

Take your paint stripping gun and heat the fiberglass and port hole metal up to something that you can not touch . That would be about 160+ deg F.

A surface thermometer can be used ... Looks like this .. pic too big to post ... sorry.

You are heating the 3M fifty two hundred sealant used by the factory.
Heat and beat ..

I had to do this for my rudder casting after all the bolts were removed.


Craig Weis.

[wes]

I rarely criticize the very talented craftsmen at Hutchins, but the ports should not have been bedded in sealant on the interior side. Aside from tearing up the wood trim when you remove them, this can trap moisture when the ports develop leaks. The rule is seal the exterior joint only; leave the interior unsealed so you see leaks and so the leaks can freely run out and not be trapped behind the wood.

So far in my career I've removed and re-bedded ten bronze ports - four on my 19 and six on the 27.

Also: don't use 3M 5200 (too hard to remove next time) and don't use silicone caulk (contaminates the fiberglass and nothing will ever stick again). I like 4200, but there are plenty of other good options. Great way to start an argument in a boatyard.

Wes

[thomeng55]

Thanks for the comments.  I take it that when Craig talked about heating it up, you are talking from the outside, not in. 

Thanks

TOm

[wes]

If you use his technique you will need to heat both sides - the exterior to unstick the bronze ring, and the interior to remove the body of the port from the teak trim. Personally I favor chemicals instead of heat (Debond Marine Formula is excellent) but to each his own.

[Chris D]

What about sealing them with butyl tape or caulk? Has anyone tried to reseal with that?

[wes]

Not a good application for butyl - I know, I tried. The problem is the narrow gap between the external trim ring and the "spigot." No easy way to get butyl in there. Stand by my recommendation of 3M 4200 in black.

Wes

[Chris D]

Wes, that's good to know. I appreciate the feedback. I was wondering if there might be an easier alternative, but it sounds like your recommendation of 4200 is the way to go. Always learning here, that is what I love about this great site.

Chris

[wes]

The one clear no-no is silicone caulk. It leaves a permanent residue on gelcoat which is nearly impossible to remove and will prevent future sealants from adhering. Silicone should be used only where it will not touch gelcoat or fiberglass, such as bedding the glass pane inside the bronze port.

Wes