Pacific North West in a 23PH

[Mike]

Your pics are like old home week.  Have spent many happy hours in Desolation Sound on rented boats from Comox, BC.  Hope to get the 19 up there....wish it had a pilot house or bimini though.   Hope you get to Toba Inlet, it is worth the trip.

[frank]

I was by it about 2 weeks ago. Doesn't look like there are good anchorages up there.
Too slow a boat to go all the way up/bacl without an anchorage  :-)
Tied to the float in Attwood bay just before Toba
Been pretty well through most of the area tho
If all goes well....heading up to the Broughtons again in 2 weeks.
Super quiet this time of year!!

[frank]

I'm as ready as I will be.
Provisions on, oil/filter changed, water tank filled and extra fuel.
My last visitor left at 9am today and now I finally have time to head up north...way north.
Funny.....I find myself slightly apprehensive about this. I've gone to the Broughton's and Queen Charlotte Sound once before, but it was on an 18,000lb boat carrying 200 gallons of fuel and 100 gallons of water. That boat cruised easily at twice the speed of my 23, could speed up to make "slack" at the rapids and only had a "gallon per hour" burn pulled back to 6.5 knots. With 200 gallons aboard, range or running the heater wasn't an issue.
Once I leave Heriot Bay N, it becomes extremely isolated...you truly are "on your own". Both Eco Bay marina and Kwatsi Bay marinas no longer have fuel or provisions....if anyone will even be there. Lagoon Cove "may" have fuel, but the owner died a few years ago and his wife doesn't stay over winter. Port McNeil....further up the coast is a good fuel/provision stop but the fuel to get there and back from where I want to cruise is a good burn in of itself.
The 23 cruises nicely at an average of 4.5 knots. The fuel tank is only 7 gallons! While I can increase RPM to make 5.5 knots....fuel burn goes up dramatically, negatively effecting both range and the ability to have heat. I am carrying 2 extra 2 gallon cans and one 4 gallon. Any more than that, weight becomes an issue. It will be interesting....
Captain Vancouver, after rounding the Horn to get here in search of the "north west passage" called Johnstone Straight and the areas tidal rapids "the most vile body of water in the world"
One of my cruising guides warns that of the entire "inside passage" from WA to Alaska, this stretch is the most difficult, requiring the most advanced seamanship.
I will have to time 6 different tidal rapids both up and back. There will be 2 narrow passages with "range markers". Throw in cold temperatures, freezing nights, lack of fuel stops or provisioning , a slow boat and truly being "on your own" with literally no other boat traffic and I guess my "butterfly's" are justified.
The good news is I hope to return to the untouched beauty of Bond Sound with the unreal Eagle, Seal and bird population. I hope to go up Knight Inlet to Glendale Cove to watch the Grizzly Bears....passing the resident Dolphins on the way. A 2 day stop at Joe Cove to relax and fish on Eden Island is also in the plan, as is crossing Back Fish Sound (old local name for Orca's) with the many Sea Lions and Humpback whales (too late in season for Orcas...but I'm hoping) I also hope to stop at Echo Bay to see Bill Proctor.....an area environmentalist legend.
I met him as he turned 80 while I was there last year and I truly hope he is still alive and well. An "old school" fisherman, he has gained the respect of a multitude of biologists with his "self taught-hands on" knowledge of everything in nature. A simple, understated very wise old salt....google him if you're bored. He lives a quiet life in the Broughtons that have always been his home.
Yep....I have butterfly's tonight....probably a combination of excitement and a grain (or 2) of apprehension. 
As plans go.....I'll be heading straight into a NW 25-30 knot sea for 35 miles to start.
Fun eh  :-)

[cw021382]

Frank, those butterflies are really wisdom in disguise.  Have a great time up there, and be sure to post a few pics if you can.  I will be following along from my leather boat that's docked in front of the woodburner. 
-Chris

[Bob23]

   I have done nothing that even comes close to your proposed adventure but I need to add that it seems bordering on dangerous although I must say you have planned it out quite well and seem to know what you're getting into. It's the lack of fuel that concerns me. Do you have an alternate source of heat other than the engine?
Bob23

[HeaveToo]

It sounds well planned and like an amazing trip.  They key is to choose your weather and hopefully sail more than motor.  If you don't have a hard and fast schedule it is best and you can make hops on weather windows.

I ALWAYS get myself in trouble when I put deadlines or schedules on my cruises.  I have been caught really bad one time and ended up in one of the most treacherous places in the Chesapeake Bay in a full gale. 

Take your time, enjoy the cruise, and take lots of pictures!!!!!!

[frank]

it's 10 to 7 here....trying to figure wether to leave or stay put. First day is getting from Powell River to Heriot Bay on Quadra Island. More open water here but some protection from coastal islands. Once in Heriot Bay, I can do the final fuel up again before heading N. From there....wind is less of an issue as most channels are not too wide so waves tend not to be a factor.
It is the tides that you must time...
Fuel.....if I throttle back to 4.5 knots the burn is about 3 hours per gallon. Timed right.....an extra one to two knot tidal "push" for SOG of 6 to 6.5. Timed wrong.....not good.....
I hope to sail when possible and motor sail as well. On light wind days....throttling back even more to pick up that "free" half a knot plus..
Heat will only be an hour before bed and during morning coffee. Will wear a down Jacket underway.
No "definate schedule"....yes...they are killers...
That said...my best "tidal window" for the 1st 3 rapids is with me leaving Heriot Bay Monday....
I'll ceck the 3 sites again and make the call shortly. Dawn is just now breaking here.

[frank]

Underway.....2 miles out....

[frank]

Winds

Issued 10:30 AM PST 15 November 2015
Today Tonight and Monday
Gale warning in effect.
Wind northwest 25 to 30 knots increasing to northwest 30 to 35 early this evening then diminishing to northwest 15 to 25 near midnight. Wind diminishing to southeast 5 to 15 late overnight then increasing to southeast 20 to 30 early Monday morning. Wind increasing to southeast 35 to 45 late Monday morning then diminishing to southwest 15 to 25 Monday evening.

Made it!  26 slow miles...

The saying goes :

"the difference between an adventure or ordeal is attitude"

I'm having my 1st rum and trying for an attitude adjustment  :-)

Most will think I'm crazy, an idiot or both for heading out. I probably was/am.
With a NW , we were 'heading into it' with diminishing seas the closer I got to the destination. Tomorrow, with a 35-45 SE, the long fetch of the Straight of Georgia would have made it impossible. As is...I figured I would play the lee of Harwood and Savary Islands as much as possible and after that would be close enough to Cortez the fetch would be down substantially. That was the plan with the "turn back anytime" option one early on and the "pull into Lund" further along option 2. Everyone loves a challenge and after 2 Gulf Stream crossings and over 3mths of sailing winter winds on the sea of Abaco with this boat...I felt fairly confidant. Plus...if it worked, although no schedule, I would save 2 days in getting N.

What I can tell you is the plan "kinda worked". I have been in worst conditions, but the last time was 8yrs ago. The "lee's" weren't too nuts...but we certainly took a pounding 3 different times in the open. I can honestly say that these were the craziest conditions I have had in over 3000 total miles out here during the last 3 years. The lil 23 did great! NOT what it was designed for..but did great.

I am thankful to be safely tied in Gorge Harbour (couldn't make Heriot Bay..OR get out later...)
Thankful for the Pilot House
Thankful I spec'd 100lbs extra lead ballast (expecting strong winter winds in Abacos)
Thankful for autohelm.
Thankful for my old forspar gimballed stove to make hot tea underway

After today, I can honestly say these lil 23's will do far more than you think!

PS....it always amazes me how a towed dingy just keeps tagging along obediently. I kept looking back in the craziest sections expecting the worst...but it just kept following along as if it was no big deal.

[Bob23]

Thanks for the update. So one question: What's your rum of choice?

[tmw]

Sounds like a great adventure, thank you for keeping us informed as part of it.

I wish you fair winds and following seas on the rest of the adventure, and hope it meets your full expectations.

[frank]

Thanks for the update. So one question: What's your rum of choice?

In the words of David Henry Thoreau.....  "the closest"   :-)

I like changing them up but always dark rum

Bacardi Black select, Captain Morgans Dark, a treat is Goslings dark (love it).
Tonight is Lambs Navy dark

So many rums.....so little time   :-)

[Bob23]

Gosslings is my favorite and go-to rum. But I also like Pussers, the Kraken and Newfy's Screetch. Never heard of Lamb's Navy Dark. I'll have to search that one out.

[frank]

Gossling for a "go to" rum.....A man of obvious good taste  :-)

[cw021382]

I agree that the 23, while not a flicka or dana,  is capable of much more than just day sails close to the dock.  Here are some pictures Frank asked me to post of his trip.  I really like the one of the jellyfish with the mountains reflecting on the water. 

-Chris