Peak 135 genoa for CDI installed on CP19...no complaints.

[mayrel]

I purchased a new 135 genoa from Peak.  As promised, it took nearly five weeks to receive.  It fits correctly.  The quality looks good, only time will tell.  I paid $429 for this sail with the UV protection and foam options for the CDI roller; this is their cruising sail with reinforcements.  The price of this sail was several hundred dollars less than their competitors.  With that said, I'm not an avid fan of the CDI.  I admit I enjoy the convenience, but they don't operate as smoothly as I'd like.  This may be due to the lack of correct tension in the forestay which I can tune. I don't trailer our CP19 so I can tune the rigging a bit tighter.

[brackish]

Couple of questions: 

What is the "smoothness" issue with the CDI?  I initially had a few issues but managed to correct them and it operates perfectly now.  If you can elaborate or be more specific, someone here has probably been there and done that and can help you.

What does rig tuning have to do with whether you trailer or not?  It should not matter.

[mayrel]

Brackish,  I'll try to respond to your questions.  The CDI is flexible.  It is also a flat rectangular shape.  When furling the sail, if you don't keep just the right tension on the furling line and sheets, the sail will not furl smoothly(there are gaps in the sail usually near the top).  I believe my forestay is too slack, so when I am rolling the sail out, again the tension is from the sheets and the furling line.  The flexing back and forth as you pull on the sheets, and try to keep just the right tension on the furling line, causes  the CDI to flex, primarily in the middle.  If you have two people performing this drill you can run it in or out more smoothly.  With that said, I am guessing based on the limited instructions in the CDI manual on how to adjust the forestay, the amount of tension is up to you.  I believe my rigging is too loose and needs tuning.  With a properly tensioned forestay I would think the CDI will not flex as drastically as it does now, and it will operate much smoother.
Your second question about the rig tuning and trailering....in order to step and/or drop the mast, it is helpful to release some of the tension on the back stay which allows you to connect or disconnect the forestay much easier.  Once you have the mast up, you tighten up the back stay accordingly.
I spoke with Gerry Hutchins about tuning this rig.  It is not necessary or advised to tension the rigging too tight.  He advised finger-tightening the rigging(using a wrench and turning the turnbuckle by hand)making sure you make the adjustments for corresponding wires equal.  A test sail is advised to see if the leeward rigging is too loose.  With this said, tensioning the fore and back stays is accomplished the same way.
I'm open to any suggestions, advice or training...early thanks, John

[brackish]

Brackish,  I'll try to respond to your questions.  The CDI is flexible.  It is also a flat rectangular shape.  When furling the sail, if you don't keep just the right tension on the furling line and sheets, the sail will not furl smoothly(there are gaps in the sail usually near the top).  I believe my forestay is too slack, so when I am rolling the sail out, again the tension is from the sheets and the furling line.  The flexing back and forth as you pull on the sheets, and try to keep just the right tension on the furling line, causes  the CDI to flex, primarily in the middle.  If you have two people performing this drill you can run it in or out more smoothly.  With that said, I am guessing based on the limited instructions in the CDI manual on how to adjust the forestay, the amount of tension is up to you.  I believe my rigging is too loose and needs tuning.  With a properly tensioned forestay I would think the CDI will not flex as drastically as it does now, and it will operate much smoother.
Your second question about the rig tuning and trailering....in order to step and/or drop the mast, it is helpful to release some of the tension on the back stay which allows you to connect or disconnect the forestay much easier.  Once you have the mast up, you tighten up the back stay accordingly.
I spoke with Gerry Hutchins about tuning this rig.  It is not necessary or advised to tension the rigging too tight.  He advised finger-tightening the rigging(using a wrench and turning the turnbuckle by hand)making sure you make the adjustments for corresponding wires equal.  A test sail is advised to see if the leeward rigging is too loose.  With this said, tensioning the fore and back stays is accomplished the same way.
I'm open to any suggestions, advice or training...early thanks, John

Yes, forget about the fact that there is a furler and tension it like you would any other forestay.  You do use either tension released on the back stay or some use the bobstay in order to declip the furler and stay and lower the mast.  I prefer the backstay.  Your furler/forestay should always remain the same, easier to deal with the other two turnbuckles.  My furler line is purposely long enough to go from the aft ratchet block low on the stern pulpit back to the halyard winch.  I take a couple of wraps around it and I can face foreward and handle both the sheet and the furler while seeing the sail and knowing it is rolling properly.  Make sure you check above during the process to see if you are hanging the  furler halyard top fitting on another halyard.  There is a knob on that top fitting that can catch another halyard and cause it to hang or even wrap around the furler if loose enough.  I added a flat round disc above mine to negate that condition and run both ends ofmy spinnaker halyard forward tying off to the front of the bow pulpit to get it clear. Just normal sailing technique but easier to roll up tight if you are into or mostly into the wind.  Make sure your furler line is not crossed in the drum and that you keep tension on it while deploying the sail to remove slack that could cause it to get crossed. While the forestay can and should be relatively tight, don't try to over tighten the halyard in the furler extrusion, at some point you are just trying to compress the extrusion as it is independent of the forestay.  Good luck, you'll get the hang of it.

[mayrel]

Thanks Brackish.  I understand completely.  When I get an weather window(raining/storms presently),I'll adjust the forestay and leave it set, then I'll tune the remaining rigging after I have dropped the mast, installed a new steaming light, spreader covers and reinstall my wind vane.  Your description of how you run your furling line is very helpful; I happen to have a ratchet block available I can install.  Thank you very much...John

[Lafayette Bruce]

I'm glad to hear your Peak sails turned out well.  Hopefully they have gotten their issues resolved.
Lafayette Bruce

[mayrel]

I needed to drop the mast, install a new steaming light, spreader covers and the wind vane; got that finished last night.  After tensioning the back stay, I ran the genoa in and out a few times.  It works better now, and I'm getting better at keeping the tension correct on the sheets and furling line.  Thanks to you all for the help.
I'm no expert on sail quality, but another sailor said it looked well made.  He's going to order a new main for his boat.  I did find out these sails are made in China, what a surprise! Ha!  But they're reasonably priced(my 135 genoa cost $492).  I had another quote from a Canadian source which was $1190, plus shipping.  I also realize you generally get what you pay for, so we'll see. 
I do like the ability to reduce the head sail, so the CDI works.  I just have to learn how to make it work smoothly.

[wes]

I'll put in a plug here for National Sails. Their pricing is very similar to Peak (I paid about $900 for main and Genoa together for my 19), their loft is also offshore (Thailand), but their customer service and on-time delivery is flawless as many others here will attest. Why take a risk with a company whose past reputation is spotty?

Wes