What I have been up to lately

[cw021382]

I haven't posted much lately but I have been working on the boat. I reworked the rudder hinge and installed bronze bushings and new ss bolts.  I used 1" x 3/8"ID x 1/2"OD shouldered bushings and stainless 3/8" bolts.  I found all the parts at my local family center for about $30 including a 31/64" drill bit.  Here are a few helpful hints to doing this job.  
1.  Use a 31/64" drill bit and keep it straight.
2.  Drill all the way through.  This allows you to remove the bushings when they wear by punching them out.  
3.  Install the bushings shoulder to shoulder.  This lowers friction in the system.
4.  Use a hammer and lightly tap the bushings into place.  This works better than trying to press them in.
5.  Run a 3/8" bit thru the bushing backwards after it is installed.  This rounds out any slight irregularities and gives a perfect smooth fit.  
6.  Use washers at the top and bottom and a stainless nyloc nut to secure the bolt.  Tighten it up tight to seat everything then back it off slightly.

Not counting sourcing the parts the job only took about an hour to do.  Here are a few pics I managed to take.







I also removed the marine sanitation system:  holding tank, hoses, y valve, loop, vent, and the head.  The system was in poor shape, and the source of some odor.  I was surprised to find that the holding tank was about half full.  I didn't spill anything in the boat, but that is all I am going to say for now.  I might do a write up on it in the future for everyone's amusement.  I am debating using wag bags this summer.  

I changed the mounting location for the genoa pole.  It now resides on the outside of the starboard stanchions and takes up much less room on the side deck.

I have removed the rub rails and cleaned the hull to deck joint in prep for sealing a few very small intermittent leaks.  I have removed all the decals, numbers and pin striping from the hull, and done my first wet sanding.  2 more wet sands then compounding polishing and waxing.  The gel coat is in really good shape.

I just received the new gold tape and decals from compac today.  They shipped with the new forward hatch I ordered so I have to install it now.  I have some issues with the new hatch so I will call Matt in the morning.  I am still waiting on the new style bobstay I ordered.  

I am also setting up a new ground tackle system.  I started a new thread just for that if anyone is interested.  I also have to finish the dinghy when I can find the time.  Maybe I can do it this week while it is raining.  I have 3 different carts going at 3 different marine stores for the last week, and I need to place the orders and stop adding to them.  I don't know why I like messing about in boats, but I would feel lost without one.

-Chris

 

[brackish]

A comment and request.

I switched from a Porta potty that worked just fine to Wag Bags with the clean waste toilet.  Turned out to be a very good decision for a number of reasons.  A search will lead you to the thread on that issue.

When you've completed your restriping, please report back with process and issues.  I have that to do this spring.  Got the gold and navy tape along with the compac logo and the forward arrow, but have yet to remove the old and replace.  How did you get the old off?

[cw021382]

Hi Brack,  I know they say to use a removal wheel, but I used a razor in a holder.  I have done this many times, and there are a few tricks to it.  If you have never done it this way there is a pucker factor involved.  First you don't use a new razor.  It is too sharp and will dig in.  You need a razor you have dulled down slightly and curved the edge up on.  You can use a sharpening stone for this.  Hold the razor at about a 45 and pull it backwards until you can feel a slight lip on the top.  Then round the corners up a bit.  Work only one way and hold the razor nearly flat to the hull with the angle to the tape at 45 degrees.  Now for the pucker factor.  Once you get a small lip built up you push the razor very firmly against the hull and into the tape and keep going.  It's hard to explain but works like magic.  If my tape had been one piece I would have stripped each side with only a couple starts and stops.  It only took a few hours to strip the name, tape, decals, numbers, and everything off, and not one knick in the hull.  I don't have any navy tape on my boat only the gold tape and gold decal and arrow.  What do you use the navy tape for? 

-Chris

[cw021382]

I also got my new portlight seal material from Downwind Marine last night.  It is 3/8x3/8 hollow portlight gasket.  I ordered 14' I think to do the 6 ports with some extra.  If you need new seals for your bronze compac ports this is the place to get them.  Great prices.

The issue I had with the hatch is that it came without a screen.  I called compac and the screen is $43 and a separate item.  The hatch was $219.  Matt never mentioned this and I was  under the impression it came with it.  I wish he would have mentioned this and I would have bought it.  As it is I am a little sore about it.  I was nice and understanding on the phone because I will probably need other parts in the future from them.  One other thing, the old hatch is 17 3/4" x 12 7/8" the new one is 18" x 12 7/8".  I hope it fits as this is why I ordered it from them and not elsewhere.  There is a nice new Bomar aluminum hatch on ebay that would fit perfectly for $170.  I wish I had gone that route. 

-Chris

[brackish]

Thank Chris, I have a wheel and a heat gun, but think your method would be much quicker if done carefully with the modified razor.

The navy is at the waterline on my boat.  It has a 2" wide navy with a 3/4" gold on top of it at the waterline, and a 3/4" gold with the logo and arrows 6" below the rubrail.  Going back with the same thing in the same place to avoid any differential fading issues.

[hockeyfool]

I also got my new portlight seal material from Downwind Marine last night.  It is 3/8x3/8 hollow portlight gasket.  I ordered 14' I think to do the 6 ports with some extra.  If you need new seals for your bronze compac ports this is the place to get them.  Great prices.

The issue I had with the hatch is that it came without a screen.  I called compac and the screen is $43 and a separate item.  The hatch was $219.  Matt never mentioned this and I was  under the impression it came with it.  I wish he would have mentioned this and I would have bought it.  As it is I am a little sore about it.  I was nice and understanding on the phone because I will probably need other parts in the future from them.  One other thing, the old hatch is 17 3/4" x 12 7/8" the new one is 18" x 12 7/8".  I hope it fits as this is why I ordered it from them and not elsewhere.  There is a nice new Bomar aluminum hatch on ebay that would fit perfectly for $170.  I wish I had gone that route. 

-Chris
Can I ask if yu think the bomar on eBay is still avail?

[cw021382]

It is still there.  Here is the link


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nibo-Bomar-N1028-10PX-13-x-18-Opening-Hatch-/261835880489?hash=item3cf6a27829&vxp=mtr

It does not have a trim ring for the inside, but you could make a nice teak one pretty easy.  The one from Compac requires a teak filler for the trim ring anyway.  It looks like it would fit my 93 perfect, but double check your dimensions before you order.  

-Chris

[skip1930]

I did this many years ago. Works great. Have not worn out the bushings yet. And when I do I'll tap out the old bushings and go over to Ace Hardware and buy another four more. With a new ss bolts, washers, and nyloc nuts [nuts up] the total cost was about $15/boat. I've done three CP-19's. The factory slips in a nylon bushing that lasts about 2 seasons. Use a turned down shank on the drill bit and a 3/8 drill motor for the best alignment through the casting when up against the transom.

Brackish "When you've completed your restriping, please report back with process and issues.  I have that to do this spring.  Got the gold and navy tape along with the compac logo and the forward arrow, but have yet to remove the old and replace.  How did you get the old off?" ... paint stripping heat gun and a nylon pot scrubbing scrapper?

cw021382 "I am still waiting on the new style bobstay I ordered."
After I broke my bobstay [dolphin stay] I took the parted cable and ends to my local nautical shop [Great Lakes Yacht Service here in Sturgeon Bay] and had them assemble a new one using swedged ends [no turnbuckle. Like factory]. About 45 minutes and $75 bucks later she was done.
It was half a pin diameter [3/32?] short of passing the pin through the tang on the bow with the mast mounted and the boat sitting on dockside. So from sitting in a dingy I tied a few loops of a line to the bow sprit and to the bow eye and started twisting the line with a screwdriver, making that line shorter and pulling that 3/32 distance I needed to insert the pin. [A few thousand lb of effort there]

I noticed that the dolphin had broke while sailing when bow sprit was bouncing up and down as the head sail pulled. I stopped sailing tossed on a line where the dolphin was and took down the lapper and main and motored home.


skip.

[atrometer]

cwo21382





What I have been up to lately

« on: April 20, 2015, 11:52:42 PM »
Reply with quoteQuote 


I haven't posted much lately but I have been working on the boat. I reworked the rudder hinge and installed bronze bushings and new ss bolts.  I used 1" x 3/8"ID x 1/2"OD shouldered bushings and stainless 3/8" bolts.  I found all the parts at my local family center for about $30 including a 31/64" drill bit.  Here are a few helpful hints to doing this job. 
1.  Use a 31/64" drill bit and keep it straight.
2.  Drill all the way through.  This allows you to remove the bushings when they wear by punching them out. 
3.  Install the bushings shoulder to shoulder.  This lowers friction in the system.
4.  Use a hammer and lightly tap the bushings into place.  This works better than trying to press them in.
5.  Run a 3/8" bit thru the bushing backwards after it is installed.  This rounds out any slight irregularities and gives a perfect smooth fit. 
6.  Use washers at the top and bottom and a stainless nyloc nut to secure the bolt.  Tighten it up tight to seat everything then back it off slightly.

Not counting sourcing the parts the job only took about an hour to do.  Here are a few pics I managed to take.







I also removed the marine sanitation system:  holding tank, hoses, y valve, loop, vent, and the head.  The system was in poor shape, and the source of some odor.  I was surprised to find that the holding tank was about half full.  I didn't spill anything in the boat, but that is all I am going to say for now.  I might do a write up on it in the future for everyone's amusement.  I am debating using wag bags this summer. 


My wife will NOT have a boat without a MARINE head!!  Where EXACTLY was your head, holding tank, y valve, overboard discharge, and deck pump out?  What is/was the head mfg and model?  Holding tank size and dimensions?? What are the privacy arrangements?

Thanx in advance

[hockeyfool]

I did this many years ago. Works great. Have not worn out the bushings yet. And when I do I'll tap out the old bushings and go over to Ace Hardware and buy another four more. With a new ss bolts, washers, and nyloc nuts [nuts up] the total cost was about $15/boat. I've done three CP-19's. The factory slips in a nylon bushing that lasts about 2 seasons. Use a turned down shank on the drill bit and a 3/8 drill motor for the best alignment through the casting when up against the transom.

Brackish "When you've completed your restriping, please report back with process and issues.  I have that to do this spring.  Got the gold and navy tape along with the compac logo and the forward arrow, but have yet to remove the old and replace.  How did you get the old off?" ... paint stripping heat gun and a nylon pot scrubbing scrapper?

cw021382 "I am still waiting on the new style bobstay I ordered."
After I broke my bobstay [dolphin stay] I took the parted cable and ends to my local nautical shop [Great Lakes Yacht Service here in Sturgeon Bay] and had them assemble a new one using swedged ends [no turnbuckle. Like factory]. About 45 minutes and $75 bucks later she was done.
It was half a pin diameter [3/32?] short of passing the pin through the tang on the bow with the mast mounted and the boat sitting on dockside. So from sitting in a dingy I tied a few loops of a line to the bow sprit and to the bow eye and started twisting the line with a screwdriver, making that line shorter and pulling that 3/32 distance I needed to insert the pin. [A few thousand lb of effort there]

I noticed that the dolphin had broke while sailing when bow sprit was bouncing up and down as the head sail pulled. I stopped sailing tossed on a line where the dolphin was and took down the lapper and main and motored home.

skip.

------Hey Skip , will this hatch on ebay fit the hatch opening on my 1981 compac 23 ? If so -- I'm excited !

[cw021382]

atrometer, the holding tank was in the port v berth locker.  The y valve and loop were in a compartment aft of the chain locker, and the head was in the middle of the v berth under a cushion.  There is a curtain that rolls up between the bulkheads for privacy when using the head.  The head was a compact model.  I would advise getting a holding tank with drop pipes so nothing stays in the hoses.  The original was not like this.  I have some pictures I will post when I get time.

-Chris

[atrometer]

atrometer, the holding tank was in the port v berth locker.  The y valve and loop were in a compartment aft of the chain locker, and the head was in the middle of the v berth under a cushion.  There is a curtain that rolls up between the bulkheads for privacy when using the head.  The head was a compact model.  I would advise getting a holding tank with drop pipes so nothing stays in the hoses.  The original was not like this.  I have some pictures I will post when I get time.

-Chris

Thank you VERY much.  It is good to know that the 23' will accommodate a marine head!

[hockeyfool]

It is still there.  Here is the link


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nibo-Bomar-N1028-10PX-13-x-18-Opening-Hatch-/261835880489?hash=item3cf6a27829&vxp=mtr

It does not have a trim ring for the inside, but you could make a nice teak one pretty easy.  The one from Compac requires a teak filler for the trim ring anyway.  It looks like it would fit my 93 perfect, but double check your dimensions before you order.  

Chris,
  Did you install the factory compac forward hatch yet ?
  Like to here how that fits, I emailed  Gerry Huchins to ask what is needed to install an aftermarket Bomar hatch ; he said that bomar is meant to mount on a flat surface , our boat has a
  raised crown , so he says some deck work will be needed.
  But to here how the factory hatch fits I'd love to hear !

[cw021382]

I have not installed the hatch yet.  The 23 does have a raised crown, but the top of it is flat.  As long as the flange on the bomar fits this flat area it will mount fine.  You will have to trim the inside because the bomar does not have a flange.  This should be no problem.  These are only my observations.  Gerry Hutchins no doubt has his reasons for saying deck work would be needed, but I don't know what they are. 

-Chris

[cw021382]

Update:  I have installed the hatch.  It required cutting about 1/8" off the side of the opening on the inner headliner.  I also installed it flush on the inside like the original was installed.  I know Gerry says they just use a teak filler now, but I like the flush look much better.  It also gives you some extra headroom in the v berth area.  This required a lot of careful cutting on the hatch and the trim ring.  It turned out great.  I have to purchase some ss white head screws to replace the ones holding the trim ring.  I used white head ss screws to attach the hatch also.  I have also replaced all the portlight gaskets.  I have painted the entire inside of the hull and bilge as well as the lockers and berth areas.  In other words everywhere it was grey from the factory.  I used BIN shellac based primer.  I had it tinted to match a color chip and it is exactly the same.  They used 5oz of black to tint and it just fit in the can.  I used my respirator when applying and also had a fan going.  I don't advise doing this without those 2 things.  I put 2 coats on the high wear areas like locker bottoms, bilge, and tops of bunks.  I used almost all of a gallon. 

Screws for the new style hatch are 8 10 x 5/8" and 2 8 x 5/8".  The 2 # 8's go in the back of the hatch behind the hinges.  You will also need 4 screws for the trim ring.  For cutting the hatch and trim ring I used a small open ended hacksaw.  It worked great.  The pictures are not great they were taken in low light with my phone.