Asymmetrical Spinnaker Dimensions

[HeaveToo]

For any of you that have an Asymmetrical Spinnaker on your boat, what are the measurements of this sail?

I am curious because I wouldn't mind finding one for my boat.

Thanks

[brackish]

Mine is: 

Luff - 26.88'
Leech - 24.12'
Foot - 15.25'
Mid Girth - 13.73'
Area 298 sqft.

It is actually smaller than the computer model for a 23 with bowsprit.  I wanted it that way.  It is about a difference split between that and the computer model for the 23 without bow sprit.

With an A.S. you really have a little latitude on size.  The computer model (JSI Doyle)  has the 23 bow sprit model having a luff of 27.04'

[HeaveToo]

I am considering a used asymmetrical spinnaker.  The price is awesome.

Here are the dimensions:
Luff: 25' 6"   
Leech: 22' 10"   
Foot:  15' 7"

Would this fit a Compac 23 with the bow sprit?

[brackish]

I am considering a used asymmetrical spinnaker.  The price is awesome.

Here are the dimensions:
Luff: 25' 6"   
Leech: 22' 10"   
Foot:  15' 7"

Would this fit a Compac 23 with the bow sprit?

Don't see why not.  It is a little small, that would mean you would run it a little high and the foot to luff dimension ratio is a little large so would maybe limit how close it is effective on a reach, but I never use mine except for very broad reaches or runs.    It probably has about 270-275 square feet, would still be a good light air option.

[HeaveToo]

Wow....This is really a hard decision.

So the sail is in good shape but one of the colors ran in it.  The price is around $100.

I am figuring that rigging it would cost a little more money because I would need a block on the mast for a spinnaker halyard, two blocks at the rear of the boat for sheets, and I am not sure how to rig the front of the asymmetrical.  I have seen where people had the sheet blocks on the rear attached to the rear cleats and that could work, I guess.  I am not sure how it would be rigged.

All those things added to the fact that I am trying to do a big mod to the water tank and the electrical system.  Being on a budget sucks.  Especially when something like this steers you the opposite way.  I have always wanted a spinnaker on my boats.  This would be a cheap set-up but a distraction from my current projects.  Then it also takes up valuable storage room.

I am thinking hard on this one.  The price is really good for an okay looking but sound sail.  Decisions, Decisions, Decisions.

[Bob23]

  Well, as expected, I'll throw in my 2 cents. Are you going to be happy with an ok sail just because you got a deal on it? If you're on a budget and you currently have a few directions in which to apply those $, I'd pass on the sail. But I'm just giving you my opinion. Many times I've been swayed by a steal of a deal on something that wasn't what I really wanted. Most times I've regretted it. You'll live with that sail until you replace it in which case you'll have bought 2 spinnakers.
  Like I said, only my opinion.
Bob23

[HeaveToo]

Bob...You have a good point.

Still, I have always wanted an asymmetrical spinnaker.  I may have missed this one though.  The place selling it can't find it and they said that it might be sold but they don't have a record of it.  Oh well, such is life.  Funny how things work out.

I had decided to get it.  For that price it would work great.  I even got the block for my spinnaker halyard and sheet blocks ordered.  I also picked up my flexible water tank today.  West Marine had a port supply sale going on today and it was a great sale.  I saved about $30 on my water tank!  That is also why I ordered the blocks.

I think that I will keep the blocks.  In a year or so I want to add an asymmetrical spinnaker.

[HeaveToo]

Interesting.....They ended up finding the sail and I went ahead and bought it.  Really, $95 for a spinnaker is pretty good and I will get some mileage out of it and see if it is right for my boat.  It is a pretty cheap investment and if it works well then I am going to be really happy. 

Question:  In rigging the asymmetrical spinnaker I am thinking that I need a place to attach the tack of the sail.  Looking at the bow sprit on the Compac 23, I was thinking of putting a heavier bail on the anchor roller and using the bail as an attachment point.  I am also thinking about rigging a block there so I can adjust the height of the tack.  Will this work?

How do you rig the tack of the sail?

[brackish]

I put a triangle ring on the strap bail of the anchor roller.  I have a spring clip with an appropriate length dynema climbing runner that is run through the tack.  The spring clip attaches to the triangle.  When not using the sail, the triangle shape lets the ring slide out of the way and not interfere with my anchor deployment or retrieval.   I also use two six inch climbing runners for the stern blocks.  Blocks attach to the runners then the runner goes through the stern cleat eye and around each horn.  You can use your cleats for other things without removing them.  The climbing runners are strong, flexible and inexpensive loops.  Get them from REI.

I also have a tack strap that wraps around the furled headsail.  Some folks use roller beads, mine is just a strap, it came with the sail.  Do a search for ATN tacker or tack strap.

Initially I had a block to make the tack height adjustable.  Found I never used it and it was just one more thing to hook up.  

When deployed:

[HeaveToo]

Brackish...AWESOME PHOTO!  Your boat is beautiful

So you attached the asymmetrical spinnaker tack to the bail on the anchor roller.  Is that strong enough to hold the spinnaker?

I bought Lewmar blocks.  My halyard block is a 60 series block and it has around 1200lb breaking strength and the two sheet blocks are 50 series blocks with a 990lb breaking strength.  That should be enough strength, right?

Really good idea for attaching the sheet blocks. 

I am thinking that having an adjustable tack control line may be a good thing.  If I can control it from the cockpit of the boat it will make taking the spinnaker down easier.  I don't have a snuffer so I will use a technique where the main blankets the spinnaker.  You blow the halyard and the tack at the same time and haul in at the clew.  I use to do this on a racing boat and I hauled the spinnaker into the boat through the companionway. 

5/16" for the halyard on the boat and I was thinking of doing 70 feet for this.  Then I was thinking 5/16" for the sheets and I was considering doing 1 sheet that is 100 feet long and doubling it at the clew like you do for a jib. 

[Bob23]

Brack:
   A bit off topic but is that an inner forestay I see?
Bob23
btw, wonderful photo...inspires me to get an spinnaker.

[brackish]

So you attached the asymmetrical spinnaker tack to the bail on the anchor roller.  Is that strong enough to hold the spinnaker?

Plenty strong enough.  Mine is a thick 1" SS strap with serious machine screw holding it to the roller.  The triangle ring makes the contact to the strap flat so it can't deform.

I bought Lewmar blocks.  My halyard block is a 60 series block and it has around 1200lb breaking strength and the two sheet blocks are 50 series blocks with a 990lb breaking strength.  That should be enough strength, right?

I'm using Lewmar syncroblocks I think with the same working and breaking as your intending to.  Keep in mind this is a light air sail, if you get into heavy conditions it needs to come down.

Really good idea for attaching the sheet blocks. 

yep, and it works perfectly, leaving the blocks attached to the climbing runners allows me to attach them to the cleats in a few seconds.  You can use any type of loop, but the climbing runners are very low cost.

I am thinking that having an adjustable tack control line may be a good thing.  If I can control it from the cockpit of the boat it will make taking the spinnaker down easier.  I don't have a snuffer so I will use a technique where the main blankets the spinnaker.  You blow the halyard and the tack at the same time and haul in at the clew.  I use to do this on a racing boat and I hauled the spinnaker into the boat through the companionway.

I used that method on my last boat, have the rope burn scars to prove it.  Used the packing tube/rubber band method to set it up for deployment.  On this one I have a snuffer, and I'll never go back.  So much easier for single handling. 

5/16" for the halyard on the boat and I was thinking of doing 70 feet for this.  Then I was thinking 5/16" for the sheets and I was considering doing 1 sheet that is 100 feet long and doubling it at the clew like you do for a jib.

Think I used a low stretch, high strength 1/4" for everything.  I have a furler and when I'm not using the spinnaker, I have to run the halyard forward and tension it to the bow pulpit rail to keep it from getting caught on the furler as it winds in or out.  There is a little knob at the top of the CDI FF2 that catches it.  Alternativley you can add a diverting cheek block to the mast.  I doubled a single line at the clew as you are suggesting and leave it on the sail all the time dedicated.  My sail came with a bag that can be used like a turtle.

Bob, I think what you are seeing is the snuffer control line cleated off.  I don't have an inner forestay.

[HeaveToo]

Interesting.....So you use 1/4" line for the halyard and sheets.  There is plenty of breaking strength and it is a lot less weight.

I may use my Spinnaker Halyard to help raise and lower the mast as well.  That is why I was going with the 5/16" line.  Still, using 1/4" line for the sheets would save a bit of money and weight.  I don't think that I would fly it in much over 10 knots.....especially single handed.  Maybe 12 knots in the right conditions but no way after that.

In my racing time I use to race on a boat with a 1 ounce symmetrical spinnaker.  We had three different spinnakers actually...1/2, 3/4, and the 1 ounce.  We flew that sail in crazy conditions.  The helmsman was pretty extreme and maybe a bit crazy because we flew that sail almost dead down wind in 25 knots of air.  That was a wild ride!

My anchor bail seems to be set the same way as yours except I believe that it is bolted with the same bolt that holds the pulley.  I ordered another lewmar block and the triangle ring you were talking about.  It also makes sense what you are saying about the triangle being a good set up and also allowing things to fall out of the way of the anchor when using the anchor.

Have you ever thought about taking the spinnaker halyard, when not in use, and running it behind the side stays and shrouds?  If it was brought back behind the mast in that way won't it clear the top of the furler or does the spinnaker block hang low enough to be disturbed by the furler?

This spinnaker is a bit of an experiment for me.  I am trying not to spend too much on it or rigging it for now.  If I use it a lot and it really works out I will probably get a brand new spinnaker, down the road, and work on the rigging more.

Has anyone checked out Cajun Ropes?  http://www.cajunrope.com/
I have used them in the past for halyards for my other boat.  I am probably going to use them again for new halyards, a spinnaker halyard, and spinnaker sheets.

Thank you so much for the answers and the patience.  It is so nice to get information from someone who has done this.  I really appreciate everyone's help on here.

[HeaveToo]

This is pretty nice.

So I bought the Spinnaker, had it shipped.  I have bought all of the hardware for it (halyard block, 2 sheet blocks, tack block, triangle rings, Spinnaker halyard, sheets, and tackline).  This cost less than $250!  Not bad.

I ended up getting my halyard and sheets from Cajun ropes.  So I got a new Spinnaker Halyard, new mainsail halyard, new line for topping lift, new line for furler, spinnaker sheet, and tack line.  All of this, with shipping, was $149.  Not bad!

[Salty19]

I use 1/4" Flightline for the drifter on our CP19.  Very light, doesn't absorb water, easy on the hands. 

I prefer single braids for sheets, but on a spinnaker or drifter, lightweight is the primary consideration.


I prefer 5/16" for genoa sheets and halyards.  Just a lot easier to handle in stronger winds...easier on the hands.