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Working Jib

Started by Mike, August 22, 2014, 10:07:14 AM

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Mike

I am working my way through repairs and replacements on a 1985 19/2 w/bowsprit.  Now ready to replace sails and add a CDI FF2 furler.  I am concerned about the working jib from Johnson which is noted in the Hutchins catalog.  The sail indicated is a 100% for bowsprit models and a 110% for other 19s.  Since I am pricing tanbark sails and sail in moderate but occasional heavier air, I want a best "fits all" head sail.  I have a barely used hank on (white) Johnson and will probably sell it and ultimately buy a tan bark unit for this change. 

The question, finally, 100% or 110% for a furling headsail and should I buy a new forstay from Hutchins to accommodate this change given the age of the boat?  Any related advice is welcome....I plan to have the sail maker modify the furler and forstay as I am aware of the previous comments regarding DYI installations with furlers and would rather put my efforts elsewhere on the repair list.

brackish

#1
I want a best "fits all" head sail

Good luck finding that animal.:)

If it is to be your only headsail I would go with the 110 with foam luff panels to make reefing more effective but to give you more area for lighter air conditions.  If you are to have several headsails, I would go with the 100 or even a 90.

My 23 came with a 110.  I later bought a 135.  I change them out seasonally, the 110 is on for Winter and early Spring, known for strong winds in my area, and I change to the 135 for the rest of the year.  I would prefer that the 110 be smaller to handle higher wind conditions but it is what it is and I don't think it is worth the investment to modify it.  

Keep in mind, changing the headsail on a CDI furler while not difficult is somewhat time consuming and I will only do it at the dock, not on a pitching foredeck while at sea.  It is something you want to set and forget for a while.

Only an observer can judge the condition of the forestay, age is not necessarily the replacement factor.  Plenty of data about inspection and when replacement it warranted out on the net. 

Mike

good information...sounds like the 100 may be better given that in time I will get a larger sail for lighter air.

wes

Unless you're rounding Cape Horn, I'd go no smaller than the 110. Most of the time it's perfect for moderate air, and you can always furl a little bit when things kick up. I don't think the 100 is enough sail for a 19.

Wes
"Sophie", 1988 CP 27/2 #74
"Bella", 1988 CP 19/3 #453
Bath, North Carolina

MacGyver

I just installed a CDI FF2, and had built a sail kit from SailRite. I also kept my forestay because it was in perfect shape. It was a easy install. I install Harkens and some others for a living, so I am slightly inclined to not think of this as a hard job.
In LOTS of thought, I settled on a 140. Why?

Well, for starters the smaller sails don't really benefit from the foam and all that jazz installed. Also a head sail on roller furling is usually only good for about 30 percent change. So in essence, I have a 110, to  a 140. Also, if I reef lower than 110, I am in winds I am not so worried on sail shape for a boat the shape of ours. I have reefed down to probably a 60 or 70. No luff tape, foam, or what not.....

I also don't have a SunBrella leech and foot. This saves on weight so when in very light air, I will have better performance in the end and I am less likely to have a floppy sail in really low wind. That performance only meaning to me not having to deal with the sail being limp due to weight and such. Instead, I use the original halyard (not used by the CDI, so now can be used for other things) to pull up a sock that covers the sail and is very light. It is made from TOP GUN I think, I sewed it myself as well as it was pretty simple compared to making your own sails.

When I take the mast down now, it is my intention to leave the sail wrapped, and have the sock in place to keep it all intact.

The only thing I dont like about the sock is I had to add a line to twirl around it from the top to the bottom ( I connect it to the halyard prior to raising the whole mess) and then tie it off at the bottom to keep it tight. It is kind of a deal, but I am used to doing it now so not a big problem.

I would say I am very happy with this setup. The Jib halyard could also be used as a emergency stay, or what not if needed.

Mac

Former Harbor Master/Boat Tech, Certified in West System, Interlux, and Harken products.
Worked on ALL aspects of the sailboat, 17 years experience.
"I wanted freedom, open air and adventure. I found it on the sea."
-Alaine Gerbault.

wes

As usual  I agree with everything Mac says, but would add that sail size has a lot to do with where you sail. Like Mac I have a CDI FF2, and when (like Mac) I sailed on inland lakes I used a 150 genoa. The big sail is a lifesaver in light airs. When I moved to coastal sailing with stronger breezes the 110 was a better choice most of the time. I have found that despite the adjustability you get with the furler, it's still a good idea to use your full genoa size as often as possible. Having a furler doesn't necessarily mean you can sail in any area or any wind conditions with only one sail.

Wes
"Sophie", 1988 CP 27/2 #74
"Bella", 1988 CP 19/3 #453
Bath, North Carolina

Mike

You guys have given a lot of good perspective.  Coming from a Drascombe lugger where everything is loose footed, no booms and an old furler this is new information.  I sail inland resevoirs but have conditions ranging from next to nothing to 30 knot gusts.  I have no interest in foredeck trips during the latter conditions.  Thank you