Raising and lowering the Main on the SunCat daysailer

[TampaSailor1]

Hi Com-Pac Forum Members. I've just joined as I am thinking about buying a SunCat Daysailer. I want a small boat that I can easily single hand on Tampa Bay. I test sailed the Daysailer recently and found the gaff rigged mainsail a bit tricky to raise and lower by myself. Is there a foolproof method for this process? Any tips anyone can pass along would be much appreciated. Thanks!

[CaptRon28]

My experience is mostly on the Horizon, but it should work for the very similar Sun Cat rig as well. You've got 2 halyards and you've got to use both on the way up or down. The trick is to keep the gaf approximately horizontal or just above that point, other wise the halyards could work against each other. The peak halyard on the Horizon is 3 pulls for every pull on the throat halyard. The Sun cat is probably 2. As you get to the top, you've got to max the height of the throat halyard before you raise the gaf to its high point. After this is done, you pull down on the line attached to the booms car to flatten out the leading edge of the sail. The process is actually pretty easy once you figure out what's happening.

One other note - I tend to manually raise the boom, sail, and gaf above the mast hinge and then pin the boom so it's above this point. You avoid any friction issues with the two cars going thru the hinge. BUT - you've got to pull the long pin after you lower the boom and gaf to avoid damaging the mast when you lower it.

[tmorgan]

Ron's description is excellent.  I hold the slides up by using one of those adjustable slides that can be locked into position rather than the long pin. Lazy jacks are the best thing I put on my Suncat.  They control the boom,gaf and sailcloth when raising and lowering the sail.

[Eric in Seattle]

I am a fairly new Suncat Daysailer owner and just completed my fourth sail this weekend. I'm finding myself tweeking the set up technique with each sail.  Bottomline, the Suncat is an easy boat to set up and sail but there are tricks that make it easier.  The above advice is great.  I find that it is easier to raise the gaff, sail, and boom above the hinge point during set up, while still on the trailer.  I do this and then put the pin in to keep it in place.  Getting everything to slide above the hingepoint is the biggest challenge and it is a whole lot easier to do during set up.  When raising the sail, I pull the throat and peak halyards together so that the gaff stays parallel to the boom until the throat is as high as it will go.  I then remove the pin and pull the downhaul as tight as it will go. Finally I raise the peak of the gaff to the correct angle (an angle that does not create wrinkles in the sail).

[capt_nemo]

Strongly agree that Lazy Jacks are an essential addition to the Sun Cat Rig. But don't go crazy adding lots of (costly) PERMANENT hardware and line when SIMPLE, INEXPENSIVE solutions are available that do just as good a job of taming a large gaff headed mainsail.

Be careful about how and when you use the "Long Pin". It is there for two purposes, neither of which involves raising the mainsail.

And, if perhaps perchance, you find that pesky gaff a mite stubborn when it comes time to douse sail, the addition of a light GAFF DOWNHAUL LINE makes life aboard sooo much easier.

capt. nemo

[TampaSailor1]

Thanks to each of your for your excellent and detailed advice! The person who took me on the test sail did know to manually raise the gaff, sail and boom above the hinge on the mast so I was familiar with that very helpful tip. Also, the reminder about the lazy jacks is really appreciated. I am waiting for a quote to add lazy jacks to the boat I'm looking at. Any idea what I should expect to pay?

Again thanks very much for the advice. I have found many of the threads on the forum to be extremely helpful and I look forward to becoming a SunCat owner in the not too distant future. If anyone is aware of a good used SunCat Daysailer for sale pretty much anywhere in the US, please let me know. Fair winds and following seas to all!

[capt_nemo]

TampaSailor1,

If you get a lot of "bells and whistles" with your Lazy Jacks expect to pay a tidy sum, especially including labor.

On the other hand, you could make your own two-legged Lazy Jacks without any permanent hardware for about $25 bucks like I did.

My Lazy Jacks have served me well for almost 4½ years now.


capt. nemo

[TampaSailor1]

TampaSailor1,

If you get a lot of "bells and whistles" with your Lazy Jacks expect to pay a tidy sum, especially including labor.

On the other hand, you could make your own two-legged Lazy Jacks without any permanent hardware for about $25 bucks like I did.

My Lazy Jacks have served me well for almost 4½ years now.


capt. nemo

Hi Capt. Nemo,

Thanks very much for the advice. I would love to do it for $25. Can you send me a photo of your set up? Any specific directions?

[capt_nemo]

TampaSailor1,

NO BLOCK NO HARDWARE TWO LEGGED LAZY JACKS

CONSTRUCTION:

Using 3/16 Dacron line, tie a small Bowline around the lower SS bail at the top of the mast to one side of the peak halyard block and lead it down to the deck. Cut it about 3 or 4 feet above the boom and tie a small Bowline loop in the end. Repeat the process with a line down to the other side. Now, take about a 20' length of 5/32" or 3/16" Bungee Cord and while standing on one side of the boom reach up and pass the Bungee Cord through the small Bowline loop in the end of the Dacron line attached to the top of the mast. Bring the Bungee cord down and pass it UNDER the boom grabbing it on the other side with your other hand. Next, take the end of the Bungee Cord and pass it through the small Bowline eye in the other Dacron line and bring it down to the boom. Then, like before, pass the line UNDER the boom and grab it with your other hand.  Hold the two ends of the Bungee Cord together. You now have a continuous Bungee Cord line but it's probably pretty loose. Pull the slack out of the Bungee Cord making the two loops around the boom fairly snug, cut off excess and use Stainless hog rings to join the ends together. You're done.  You can splurge by using stainless rings, or something else at the ends of the Dacron line where the Bungee Cord passes through. Try deploying the Lazy Jacks as described below, adjusting the tension (tightening) of the Bungee cord to achieve a very tight fit on the boom to effectively "capture" sail and gaff.

OPERATION:

On "stand by" the two loops of Bungee Cord under the boom rest about one foot abaft the gooseneck ready to grab for deployment, slight tension in the cord keeping them in place. This position keeps them out of the sail's way (no chafe) until needed. They are then deployed by hand for those FEW MINUTES when needed to control the large mainsail (and gaff) coming down onto the boom. From the open companionway you reach forward and grab the two loops of Bungee Cord and pull them back along the boom separating them so that one is left forward, a few feet abaft the mast, and the other one pulled aft forming two "legs" to capture sail and gaff when lowered. I bring the aft one back around the padeye that was left on the boom from mid boom sheeting (previous years) which holds it securely in place. If you have mid-boom sheeting simply rig a quick way to attach the bungee loop to the pad eye holding the upper main sheet tackle. Or you might use the clew reef cleat to hold the bungee line aft if well positioned. They can then stay in position until I get ready to cover mainsail and lower mast at the ramp, at which time I capture them along with all the other lines at the mast with the long pin for travel.

Remember, don't strive for perfection - even the most complex, expensive, hardware intensive systems don't do a PERFECT job of controlling the entire mainsail (and gaff) when dousing.

If your SIMPLE SYSTEM does a reasonable job of capturing MOST of the mainsail and that pesky gaff, keeping all from spilling into the cockpit, or worse yet falling into the water, be satisfied. Then you can take your own sweet time to secure all with sail ties.

Hope this helps.

capt. nemo

[tmorgan]

I studied lazy jack diagrams like Harkens, then bought the hardware and line myself. It was a lot less expensive.

[TampaSailor1]

Capt Nemo,

Thank you very, very much for the excellent detailed description of your lazy jack system! If (or more likely, when) I make the purchase, I will definitely use your guidance. Thanks!

[steve brown]

In reference to various aspects of this subject, I would like to add something about foot traction while moving forward on the deck and cabin top. I have found that the typical boat shoe to be somewhat lacking in gripping the non-skid surfaces, until now.  I purchased a pair of Sperry Top-Siders 'Sea Kite' at West Marine (on sale).  They are very light, drain water and have a special  "nubby" sole. I can walk all over the boat wearing these with total confidence. I was able to stand on the cabin top and hatch to swing the mast up with ease witout a bit of slippage. I will leave them on the boat to save the sole. Putting NUNKI in the lake tomorrow. Have a safe sailing season. Steve

[CaptRon28]

"I would like to add something about foot traction while moving forward on the deck and cabin top."


The best "boat" shoes that I've ever used are Teva's 3-strap sandals (not thongs). They stick like glue. Obviously, they are more suited towards warmer climates. But for a snowbird who hasn't seen snow is over 10 years, they are great. My second choice is bare feet, but you can snub a toe fairly easily on many decks.