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Anchor(s) for FL coast

Started by Phebus, March 13, 2014, 02:08:13 PM

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Phebus

All,

I ended up getting the Red 19.   It was a little rougher than it looked in the photos. I haven't looked at a lot of boats, so I don't have much to go on. It doesn't have an anchor or a swim ladder.  Anyway I plan to go to the Dania Beach Marine Flea Market tomorrow to see if I can find what I need.  I plan on sailing off the coast of FL and overnighting, what size & type anchor(s) do you all suggest?  From what I understand I need at least one anchor with a chain that is hopefully rubberized, and a rope.  I'm not sure what size, type, or length I need.

Thanks
Phebus

Salty19

Get other advice than mine to be sure as I don't live in FL or overnight at anchor, but others have asked the same question, and others have  lean folks in your situation towards either a CQR or Bruce/claw type anchor..probably 11-14 lbs with about a boat length (20 ft) of 1/4" chain along with enough line to suit (apps 7X more than the deepest depth of the water you plan to anchor it, plus enough to get from the waterline to the cleat.   And as Skip1930 would say, a little more for the wife and kids. )

The CQR and Bruce/claw anchors work in sandy conditions and folks report they don't pull out when the wind shifts.

Danforths would work in sand too, but I hear they don't reset themselves if the wind shifts. Not good in the middle of the night.

You might want to take a few hours and look back in all the forum subsections on the 19 and Boat Modifications section to read up more on anchors and some of the questions you had in the other post.  There over 10 years of knowledge of these boats to glean-quite a bit of general knowledge and specific CP19 info to catch up on.

P.S. The rubberized chains are just fat enough to not fit into the small anchor "hole" (called a Hawse pipe) on deck, so they can kinda clutter up the deck, and they aren't long enough anyway. You want at least 16ft, but 20 is better if you're going to sleep on the boat. You could use more too, but that is probably not necessary. 

I'm sure some of your fellow Floridians will pipe in here with perhaps a better recommendation.

Welcome to the forum, by the way, and nice looking boat!
"Island Time" 1998 Com-pac 19XL # 603

capt_nemo

Phebus,

As a current Florida cruiser with lots of anchor down time on previous larger sailboats and trawlers I can say that Salty's advice is spot on! Bruce/Claw type with plenty of chain leader.

The common saying of "Bigger is Better", while not necessarily true in all of life's cases, is certainly a well accepted truth for anchors among experienced cruisers. A lot of anchor testing has been done which demonstrates clearly a direct and significant relationship between anchor weight and ultimate holding power, given a properly "set" anchor. That said, a reasonable compromise must be achieved considering anchor handling and storage, especially in adverse conditions. General rule of thumb is to find the anchor manufacturer's recommendation for your boat and go one size bigger if at all possible and reasonable.

With regard to chain, the short 4 to 6 foot lengths, coated or not, are absolutely useless for a positive effect on the catenary of the anchor line. At least a boat length, and here again "more is better", if it doesn't cause a storage problem or add too much weight to the bow affecting boat motion or handling in a seaway.

As an aside, after having the Nylon anchor line on my large sailboat deliberately cut years ago up on the Chesapeake I switched to all-chain rodes on Primary Anchors for all my cruising boats. Not suggesting you do the same.

My current 17' Sun Cat Primary Anchor is an 11lb Claw-type with 20-25 ft of chain. And, I don't hang it on the bow but instead store it in a large rubber horse bucket and set it from the cockpit. Once set, I move the line to the bow chocks and bow cleat.

capt_nemo
Sun Cat "Frisky"

Phebus

I ended up getting an 8lb danforth style anchor and a 16lb claw anchor. I picked up the anchors pretty cheap at the flea market. I purchased 300' of 3/8" anchor line, but I still need to get chains. Hopefully I can find a way to keep things neat and orderly on the boat.

capt_nemo

Phebus,

You are well on the way to an excellent set of ground tackle. Suggest using Claw as Primary and Danforth as Back-up and Lunch Hook. Again, don't skip on chain length.

Recommendation: Once tightened, be sure to seize the clevis pins to all anchor shackles with 2 wraps of Stainless Steel or Monel wire, twist ends tight, cut off any excess, and bend twisted ends close to shackles out of the way. Don't even think about using Nylon wire ties!

Happy anchoring.

capt_nemo
Sun Cat "Frisky"

deisher6

Hey Phebus:
With an eye for eventually taking the anchor tackle apart, recommend that you coat the threads with lanolin grease, along with the safety wires.

regards charlie

Billy

When I 1st got my 19 it came w/ an 8lb danforth. I was skeptical at 1st. I went out and bought a 15lb bruce and 10' of chain. For my 1st few over nighters I would set both off the bow at a 45 degree angle.

After noticing that my bruce would slip often but the danforth always held I quit using the bruce. I still have in on board. But 99% of the time I find the danforth more than sufficient. My wife can pull it up and it holds great. I have since anchored overnight in a pass (Just N. of Anclote Key) several times where the current runs up to 3 knots w/ the tide one way and as the tide turns the boat shifted and the anchor reset 180 degrees in the opposite direction 2 times through the night.

I think the 8 lb danfort is more than enough for our boats.

Now if I was going to leave my boat unattended, I would definitely use both.

And I do agree that more chain is better. Especially since the 19s do tend to squat w/ a full cockpit.
1983 Com-Pac 19 I hull number 35 -no name-

Michael

Here is a link to a paper written in 2009 by a consortium who conducted a series of rigorous tests of the holding power and reliability of anchors under different conditions. I heartily recommend the paper to all boaters, so their boats don't go careening around an anchorage when the anchor breaks out unexpectedly (I have seen power boats and sailboats in this condition. Once on Silva Bay on Gabriola Island I even saw an entire dock, with several sailboats tied up on it, wandering around the anchorage in a blow while my wife and I watched from a table in a restaurant overlooking the bay). The results of the tests and the conclusions of the authors will surprise many people, especially those who have a favorite anchor type "because it's always worked for me and it must be good because you see it on yachts all over the world." Live and learn. I have discovered that what works is more useful that what people think, and sometimes the best is barely good enough. Also, "nothing too strong ever broke."

Fair winds, MM in Wonder

http://www.rocna.com/sites/default/files/press/press_0612_wm_ym_testing.pdf



capt_nemo

Michael,

Thanks much for the link to a most interesting and informative article.

Really enjoy reading about anchor testing, a not so exact science, try as we may.

capt_nemo


Bob23

Yes Mike, thanks from me also. While I'm not in the market for a new anchor, it was really informative. I'd been wondering about the new breed of roll bar anchors and that article sure helped clear up some mysteries. My own anchor is a on-off stainless steel Danforth type that has held in some high winds in the sandy bottom we have here in NJ. It will drag when the wind shifts around 180 degrees. I usually use the Bahama Moor method...I'm a belt and suspenders kind of guy.
Bob23

brackish

I'm a bit skeptical about anchor studies.  Since the study introduced by Michael which I had previously read, I've seen several other studies and tests that came up with different results.  Additionally, Rocna had to be recalled by West Marine for failures due to materials that were substandard.  Fortress (and I have one and like it btw) which was rated very highly in the study was rated very low in subsequent studies because of shank bending problems. 

I have an CQR that came with my boat, the smallest they make. I had never used one before and was skeptical mainly because I thought it was undersized.  On the first BEER cruise I attended when a sudden storm came up with a 180 degree wind shift and winds gusting to over 60 MPH, that thing held, while many other started to drag.  I'm a believer.

I think that proper rode length for the depth and sea conditions, length of chain, and anchor selection for the type of bottom conditions you are likely to see in your cruising area are the most important criteria.  For some parts of Florida with shallow anchoring waters, sand bottoms and minimal tides, a Danforth type may be the best selection.  My second anchor is a Fortress Guardian Danforth style anchor.

skip1930

#11
With tongue in cheek you almost have to say that a 3 gallon bucket of cement with a chain sticking out of the center and 100 foot of three strand nylon line is good enough to park a CP-19.

I figure the bucket's edge will dig into the bottom and bury it's self. Well you know what I mean.

But I don't want to over think this anchor business. Everybody has there favorite style.
It's two Danforth's for me.

skip.

Michael

Quote from: brackish on March 16, 2014, 10:10:17 PM


"I think that proper rode length for the depth and sea conditions, length of chain, and anchor selection for the type of bottom conditions you are likely to see in your cruising area are the most important criteria."

In my experience the above quote from Brackish is the key to successful anchoring. Not to say that I am as experienced as some here might be, but I have done a fair amount of swinging on the hook in various locations.

Fair winds (and good bottoms), MM in Wonder