My tiller is...looking like it needs some repair

[BruceW]

I don't have a picture, but the tiller on my CP 23 has obviously just been left out in the sun. The grain is coarse, like it is cracking.

The PO has a tiller extension installed, and where the fitting for that goes on the tiller, it is loose.

I'm wondering how to tighten it up. Is plastic wood an option?

Also, I figure now is a good time to oil the tiller, or otherwise try to protect what I still have, AND

maybe I should also make a spare.

In the past, I have gone to Ace and bought a wheelbarrow handle, cut it to length, drilled the mounting holes, sheath them with brass tube epoxied in, and Vee ola, a clunky heavy functional tiller that will last for damn near ever.  I have made this tiller for at least two previous boats.

Thanks in advance for any ideas you might have on the refurb of my current tiller, and the replacement tiller.

[brackish]

Is your current tiller one piece of wood or a laminated tiller?  If it is laminated and the laminations are separating, I would dry it well, sand it, and then seal it with epoxy letting the epoxy soak into the lamination seams.  Then use your favorite varnish or poly or whatever you like for seasonal UV protection.

If you (or a friend) has some woodworking equipment you can make a form from your existing tiller and make a new laminated tiller.  If done right, a laminated tiller is stronger and will last longer than a solid tiller.  I made the one that is currently on my boat.  The thread below will give additional details.

A spare is a good idea but it doesn't have to be another wooden tiller.  You need to have something on your boat that can be used as an emergency tiller.  Only takes one time for a tiller to snap off in your hand to realize that.  In my case that would be the table leg, however, I still need to craft an adapter for it that would rapidly slip over the yoke stub, maybe out of a short piece of aluminum square tube.

http://cpyoa.geekworkshosting.com/forum/index.php?topic=3210.0

[BruceW]

Brackish,

That's a nice looking tiller; I have nothing here for that kind of artistry. I do agree with you on having something to use if and when the tiller breaks. Easier and quicker for me to do the functional cheap easy tiller from Ace. Those handles are really dense.

Thanks for suggestion on the current tiller; as I recall, it is the standard laminated tiller, just faded by the sun. I have plenty of epoxy to use when it gets warm enough.

Bruce

[Salty19]

I moved this out of the DIY area.  The DIY forum is a respository of documented, completed projects as opposed to Q&A.

[Salty19]

I think Brackish is right, sand it down real good, drip some epoxy (clear coat) into any voids, let cure, sand again, end at 400 grit and varnish your heart out.

If it's got some rot, time to replace it.

[Bob23]

Tiger:
   I also have a 23. Keep in mind that during times of heavy weather helm, there could be a lot of stress placed on the tiller. If you even think there's rot somewhere, do yourself a favor and replace it.  A few years ago, on a last sail of the season, my son and I got caught out in a very strong NE wind and sudden 4' waves. Sailing with just the main up (mistake) and running, I was quite shocked at the amount of weather helm and the bend on my tiller, which is in great shape. Stick with a laminated stick...those laminations aren't just for show. It's a stonger piece of wood than just a solid tiller.
   A good place to look for a weak spot is where the bolts pass through.
Bob23

[BruceW]

I appreciate the points about tiller strength. I sure think the wheelbarrow handle is strong, but maybe that will just be temporary till I decide I can afford a new tiller. I'd love to have a new one.

I guess I'll look online and see what I can find.

[MacGyver]

Usually a new tiller handle runs about 100 bucks and with the spray varnish, about 120 I think.

Not too bad a price, and if kept kindly, last forever for the most part.

If I can remember I will post some links to some places I deal with through the marina.

Mac

[Mattlikesbikes]

I am pretty sure the Com-Pac 19 and 23 use the same tiller which happens to be the same as a Catalina 22. I picked up a HL Marine 100f for a Catalina 22 new from eBay last year for $100
The tiller was finished all I had to do was drill holes and mount. 

[Salty19]

I am pretty sure the Com-Pac 19 and 23 use the same tiller which happens to be the same as a Catalina 22. I picked up a HL Marine 100f for a Catalina 22 new from eBay last year for $100

My buddies C22 has a
The tiller was finished all I had to do was drill holes and mount. 

The best practice for any hole in the tiller is to over drill, fill with epoxy (I usually swab with a q-tip), drill to size then install.
This seals the wood with a very tough permanent compound, and prevents future rot at a spot that is a weak link. 

Ruddercraft makes very nice tillers.  $99 factory size, $120 custom.  I like short tillers, less in the way.  With a foiled rudder, no need for the leverage of the standard length. I also like them to clear my knee in height, but just barely.  If you ask for no holes to be drilled, you can fine tune the height via hole location.

One member here had a tree branch, yep just a regular old tree branch for a tiller when he purchased it. suffice to say he replaced it. 

[BruceW]

I have had the tillers crack at the hole locations; never had that with the wheelbarrow handle, so that's why I thought it was tougher. It is heavier and is straight, doesn't look as good.

Tree branch, huh; that's a good one!

Before I found the Com-pac 23, I saw a couple of sailboats with metal tillers that looked good.

Back to the forces, I think the blade rudder is the thing that transfers more force to the tiller. Maybe I can find a foiled rudder, and buy the stock tiller at same time. I hear that the rudder hardware can need new bushings, too.

Eh, I'll see how things look when I take the new motor to the boat. Agreed on being careful with the tiller.

[Salty19]

You can indeed...ruddercraft.com.  Home of the IDA rudders and very nice tillers.

There are really only 4 rudder options out there for our boats:

-leave it stock
-Purchase Com-pac foiled rudder
-Purchase ruddercraft/IDA rudder blade only or the entire kick-up rudder assembly
-Make your own foil from your stock rudder.

The ruddercraft versions are more than just a foil. The leading edge is moved forwards which balanced the helm. This reduces tiller force considerably (this cannot be overstated enough). Only in strong winds and waves is some grip on the tiller needed.  Normal conditions I steer with one or two fingers.  Yep, it makes that much of a difference.

The Com-pac versions move the blade forward as well, but the bottom edge tapers aft as it's spade shaped.  This reduces the effect a little.  The thing I noticed about the IDA vs. Com-pac versions (on a CP19) was the IDA had a little more bite at low speeds.  Slow speed response is a little better with the IDA.

Definitely do a search on this topic, it's been covered in detail.  remember to click the home page, then search for the best results.

[BruceW]

Salty,

I put an idasailor rudder on my suncat; amazing the difference it made. I'm definitely a believer. I'll probably want to read the posts, since Com-pac now has a foiled rudder too.

Trying to piecemeal the expenses for a bit, having just bought the boat and new motor, and now the sailing club dues are out, so I see trying to make do with current tiller and rudder, then checking out the ruddercraft. Is that a new name for Joel's company, or was there a merger?

Thanks for the search tip; I think some of my searches earlier were down the chain a bit.

Bruce

[BruceW]

Just a quick update:

I had some polyester resin, so I used that to seal up the tiller. Did this over at a friend's house because his basement was warmer than my garage. It's ready to sand, but the friend got the flu, so I'm letting it "set" a bit longer, and then I'll sand and paint with Cetol, see how it goes.

Next up, figure out which foiled rudder to buy.

I have had an Idasailor rudder, so I'm cool with that; I also know Com-pac has a push-down gizmo that seems to work pretty well, so I'm on the fence. Oops, I caused thread drift on my own thread! Belay that! 

Bruce