On the Hook

[hinmo]

Couple inquiries about mooring the boat. (don't forget I'm  a newbie to this boat and haven't wet her yet)

1) I see photos with the boom tied to the topping lift holding the boom up at quite an angle. I was presuming the topping lift would hold the boom almost parallel to the hull. Is there a reason people adjust their boom up this way?

2) I assume the cockpit drains will work for rainwater even with the weight of a 3hp 2strk on the back?

3) I have a bowsprit on mine, I am wondering if a mooring bridle will interfere as the boat swings in the waves on the mooring

Thanks for any thoughts...long NE winter ahead....I need some good CP16 talk to get me through!

[skip1930]

Couple inquiries about mooring the boat. (don't forget I'm  a newbie to this boat and haven't wet her yet) [Is this a CP-16?]

1) I see photos with the boom tied to the topping lift holding the boom up at quite an angle. I was presuming the topping lift would hold the boom almost parallel to the hull. Is there a reason people adjust their boom up this way? [Head knockers? Not only is the boom to be held up, but held from swinging side to side with the main sheets dogged down]

2) I assume the cockpit drains will work for rainwater even with the weight of a 3 hp~2 stroke on the back? Oh yea no problem. That weight is nothing compared to a crew on board.

3) I have a bowsprit on mine, I am wondering if a mooring bridle will interfere as the boat swings in the waves on the mooring. [What ever side the bow line is on will barely affect the boat as she swings in the wind or current or tides. You do have a line chalk on both sides of the bow sprit, right?]

Protect that bow line with a leather surround wherever the line touches anything. And remember "if it can happen it will happen."
Really look at anything that can 'let-go', back out, break off, abrade off and rot off and not safety wired. Double check the ground tackle.

Thanks for any thoughts...long NE winter ahead....I need some good CP16 talk to get me through!

Here is a pic of my CP-19's bow. She moors on a dock where no wind or seas can move her, hence I have a single bow line, a spring line and a stern line that keeps her snuggled up to one fender midship attached to the dock.

Note the line caulks to guide the line over the bow. These are bolted down with nuts and washers. Not screwed down. [Anybody have any in brass/bronze they'd like to sell?]

To sit on a can I'd use a protected line through the caulks and ONLY on one side. She'll swing into the wind or seas; not off center enough to worry about.
A two line bridle is just asking for trouble and a tangled mess. But beware ... you'll have to look~see that line often for condition.

[mattman]

You have a couple of ways to address the lines to the mooring. 1) use one line leaving the bow cleat starboard through the pennant loop, then through again and leading back to port to the cleat and and adjust to clear the bobstay. Or 2)  one line starboard through pennant one time back to cleat- then same set up on port-lengthen both to clear bobstay. I use the first for one staying on board, the second if I leave the boat.
Happy Sailing.

[mattman]

Sorry I don't think I answered your question. I think the clearing of the bobstay will depend on where your line chocks are located and the pull angle on the pennant. Skip is correct, guard against chafe.
Happy Mooring...

[Bob23]

Howdy Hin:
  While I have no actual experience mooring a 16 I do keep my 23 on a mooring here in NJ for 6-7 months a year. On my 23, there is a chock on either side of the boat so I use 2 mooring lines from my bow cleat down to my mooring tackle, which is a story unto itself. The use of 2 lines does actually minimize swing but I've gone a step further: I fly a steadying sail from the backstay. This really helps tpo minimize swing- it's about half of what it would be without the sail up.
   During some extreme swing angles, the line will touch the bobstay but I've never had any problems with that. And the bobstay doesn't seem to complain. It's never been a source of chaff.
   I use old Carhart workpants material for a chaff guard on my mooring lines. When I turn worn out pants into shorts, I have plenty of it around. It's just secured with electrical tape and sometimes lasts the entire summer. A lot cheaper than leather.
Bob23

[breeze2]

The best chafe gear that I have found is a old piece of water hose with wire tie at each end to keep the hose from moving up and down the dock line or mooring line.
Chafe is the biggest problem, I used two lines and ran the hose to the mooring ball.
If not protected the lines get wrapped around each other and could cut there way Thru each other.
This did happen to me one time, the two lines were down to about a 1/8 and a 1/4 dia