Not sure how to mount the mast for long distance trailering

[tomavey]

We need to trailer at cp16 from Indiana to Florida.  I'm not sure how to mount the mast for long distance trailering.  we have always just walked down the mast onto a simple wooden bracket and left it in the mast mount. OK for local twice-a-year moves but not for longer trips.  Can anyone point me in the right direction?

[skip1930]

Were going to do this the easy way.
But we need more information.
1~Does this CP-16 have a bow pulpit? NO? O.K.
2~Does this CP-16 have a stern pulpit? NO? O.K.

Looks like we have two choices.
1~On the deck.
2~On the trailer.

I'd do the trailer option only because by the time you bounce this rig down the road for 1550 miles their won't be any fiberglass left under the mast ... no mater how well padded.

Go to the hardware store and buy yourself three rolls of quality 3-M black PVC electric tape. Use this quality tape because it comes off clean.
Also pick up some braided 1/4 inch line.

I'd take the mast out of the tabernacle.
Put the bolt and wing nut back in the tabernacle and tape it so you don't loose it.
Undo the turnbuckles.
Lower the mast to the ground.
While on the ground tape all the standing and running rigging to the mast.
Everything is taped to the mast at about 6 inch intervals.
Bare in mind that the tape sticks best to it's self. Not to the mast, or anything else.
Wrap the PVC tape a few times around all the rigging every 6 inches. Nothing drags or hangs out or down. 
Go find some rags, and closed or open cell packing foam. [Pack and Ship?]
Put the mast on top of the foam that has been wrapped in rags and taped to the trailer.
Put the mast on top of this 'pillow' that has been secured to the trailer, either side of the keel.
Use the line to tie the mast to the trailer AND also tape the mast to the trailer.
If you can't tie a knot, tie a lot.
The mast is going to be just behind the ball hitch so any swings of the tongue won't pinch the mast.
Let her hang out the back and flag it.

That's how I'd do it.

skip.

[MacGyver]

I have seen 2 guys (kicknbug and sailen69) use a bracket at the stern and lay the other end on the bow rail (or maybe below it.....) for long distance transport.
On our 19 I used a block to support it at the center (using the mast bracket to hold the block in place) so it has center support as it lays across the bow pulpit and stern rail.

Mac

[NateD]

You can either set it on the bow pulpit and make some type of support in the cockpit/transom, or you could unhook the shrouds and attach it to the trailer as skip suggests. The previous owner of my CP16 had made a wood support that sat in the cockpit and was held in place by a strap.



If you have the time/wood working skills there are all kinds of ways to build mast supports. Someone recently post this one (http://cpyoa.geekworkshosting.com/forum/index.php?topic=5985.0):

[wroundey]

How many of you trailer with the rudder in place?

[Smier]

How many of you trailer with the rudder in place?

I don't, my rudder goes in the truck, or gets secured inside the boat.  I also built a wooden "crutch" that sits in the cockpit area, it holds the mast just high enough to clear the cabin roof so it doesn't damage the gel coat.  I padded the feet and where the mast rests with pipe insulating foam.  I also wrapped the bow pulpit with the same foam to prevent damage to the mast and the bow pulpit.  Skip is right, secure all the rigging in a manner that doesn't allow it to kink or flop around, even a fabric strap vibrating against the fiberglass will do damage, I'd imagine the standing rigging would saw thru fiberglass easily.
  Stop frequently and check things.  Straps and tie downs will loosen up, and cheap ones will break.  Stopping and checking things every hour and any time you stop will usually alert you to stuff going awry long before something fails.  We towed our CP16 over 700 miles last year on vacation with no issues or damage.

[NateD]

How many of you trailer with the rudder in place?

I have left it in place with both my 16 and 23. I usually tie off the tiller to keep it from flopping around though.

[deisher6]

Hello NateD:
In the past 4 years we have trailered our C-16 from Florida to Montana.  We just returned Saturday from trailering it from MT to Tennessee pending our move to the east coast. 

We started out by lashing and padding the mast to the bow tabernacle and an X shaped support in the cockpit.  That got us to MT.  Since then I have used several configurations.  However the best and last was a crutch from Idarudder, that attaches onto the rudder system, the other end of the mast was supported by a U-shaped block screwed onto a 2X6 that spanned the bow tabernacle.  We carry the boom in a PCV pipe secured to the trailer.  I wish that I could send pictures but we will not see the boat for a month or two.

The Idarudder and the mast crutch are really exceptional of gear.

As part of upgrades I have replaced the axle and put wider and larger diameter tires on the trailer.  Although I may regret it I also welded the tilt part of the trailer tongue and repaired some rust at the joint.

Hope that this helps.

regards charlie

[kickingbug1]

    i trailer mine in place never had an issue----and in the down position

[Bob23]

   With my 23, I remove the rudder blade and stow it in the pickup bed. I spent too much time making my wood foiled  blade to risk it to some near-sighted old lady in a Buick wagon who should have stopped driving 20 years ago.
   To guard against shroud chafe, I buy foam pipe insulation and cut it to desired lengths and either zip tie or tape in place. Being a cheapskate  and because I love to reuse things, I save the insulation in a trash can and reuse them from year to year. In the can is all the line and assorted stuff needed to trailer the boat.
   I rest my mast on the bow and stern rails with a center support. Although I don't trailer far, I'm kinda annal about making sure everything is secure. I could trailer for a thousand miles have everything tied down as I do for my 8 mile journey.
   Do not, do not, do not leave the motor on. Not that you would.
Bob23

[InertBert]

Whats the consensus about removing trolling motors?  I have a lightweight trolling motor that is permanently wired so I've been leaving it on while trailering.  Am I being foolish or is that nothing to worry about?

[JTMeissner]

tomavey, when I had to make the move from RI to GA, I tied the mast to a crutch in the aft cockpit and padded on the pulpit.  Actually, the first rig failed (fortunately within a few miles of starting, unfortunately, on a long toll bridge (Clairborne Pell Bridge over the Narragansett Bay) where I had to stop and make adjustments).  I did get a nice polite police escort to an area of refuge to redo the securing of the boat/mast.

What happened was the mast was able to bounce enough and came out of the v-groove in the crutch (lots of potholes).  So, after changing back to the PO's crutch (deeper mast slot), adding more ratchet straps to ensure the mast couldn't separate from the crutch and re-tying the ropes holding the bottom of the mast to the pulpit, away we went.  No issues for the remaining 1100+ miles.

The rudder was carried in the cabin and the boom was put in the bed of the truck.  The motor went on the moving truck.

In lieu of the PVC/vinyl tape, I used adjustable bungee cords for securing the shrouds and stay.  Padding for the mast was wrapped and fabric taped.  I did tie the dickens of the bottom of the mast to the pulpit, crisscrossing around the halyard cleats.  Last thing I wanted was the mast to be able to slide forward on a stop.

In the end, perhaps overkill.  I had a strap from trailer over the cockpit (lots of discussion here on that one).  Strap from trailer over mast-in-crutch, which kept it from bouncing.  Strap from trailer over front of cabin.  Mast secured to pulpit.  Chain from trailer to bow eye should trailer mast fail.  Ratchet straps were tight, but not cranked down to the point of breaking the fiberglass under the rub rails.  Rigging checked at all stops and before each morning start.  After the issues in the first few miles, it was comforting that the re-rig gave us no trouble.

I completely understand your concern.  After purchase and trailering home, my trailer bounced off the ball on the freeway during rush hour outside Boston.  Then I had these issues within miles of starting a long trip a few months later into first boat ownership.  Always a bit of nerves when first setting out with that bow in the rear view mirror. 

Check your stuff, take a deep breath, and keep the speed reasonable; you'll be all right.

-Justin

[Bob23]

   I suppose we'll all still be your friends if you leave your trolling motor on. I guess they're pretty light so it shouldn't be a problem. But I'd periodically check the bolts on the motor just in case they decide to loosen up a bit during trailering.
   Someone had to have installed the motor, right? I wonder why they didn't think about removing it sometime. Maybe you could alter the wiring by adding some male/female connectors that would allow easy removal for whatever your reason may be.
Bob23

[NateD]

Whats the consensus about removing trolling motors?  I have a lightweight trolling motor that is permanently wired so I've been leaving it on while trailering.  Am I being foolish or is that nothing to worry about?

I used to leave my 4hp 2-stroke motor on the mount when trailering (even long distance), previous owner did too. I didn't see any sign of damage to the fiberglass/transom/motor mount. Maybe there was something going on that I couldn't see, but I felt fine doing it.

[nies]

I would not have a problem  leaving a trolling motor attached because of its light weight, but being the worrier I am leaving a 50# ,$1400 motor bouncing around on the back of the boat would not work for me,trailing a boat is always an adventure............................................nies