ComPac 16 motor Mount Bracket

[don l]

It seems that the time has come to replaces the motor Mount Bracket on our CP 16.  We have tighten the bolts, however it just seem it is old, like us. The time has come for new parts. All ideas on replacement part, and how hard is it to do.  Thanks for all help and ideas.

[skip1930]

For me, if I was to replace the mount, it's buy the replacement from West Marine catalog and R&R with four bolts and a squirt of 3-M 5200. No need for new holes in the transom, or even new fasteners. Have you tried just new loc~nuts? If the soft aluminium bars are gouged out from use only on one side...take it apart and flip the bars over to a newer unworn surface. Good as new. The springs won't be fagged out, if they were never over stressed.

I tighten my bolts and loc~nuts up on the mount every season and oil it up...takes some of the squeak and wiggle out of the bars, spacers, and joints.

skip.

Mount with an extra aluminum plate bolted on and with rubber blocks of two inch is two inches down and two inches back for more handle room and prop depth. I have been toying with the idea of cutting four new horizontal aluminium bars that are longer for more 'back' and hence more 'down'. The mount is rated for 20 hp so 5 hp ought to be able to be extended out with no additional structural concerns.

Note: The pull-up bar with line through it was cut flat to clear the transom's rub rail when fully pulled up.

[Salty19]

Garelick is the OEM motor mount.

If you get any other brand, the holes may not match up.  Take a look at their website and buy the one that looks just like yours does.  It will fit...been there done that.

And I would not use 3M 5200...no need for adhesive, you just need a sealant.  This topic has been debated ad nauseum...do a search on 5200 and make your own judgement.

[sailen69]

For many small reasons I decided to replace the original motor mount on my 83' CP-16 this year.  I went with an identical replacement for what was on my boat, a Garelich model 71040.

http://search.defender.com/search.aspx?expression=302169&x=4&y=6

The old mount came off the boat ok.  I found that the top set of bolts had been shimmed out from the transom with a short stack of washers to give clearance for the operating lever at the rub rail.  The new motor mount was the same in every way except two. The new operating lever has more notches for operating height adjustment and it is slightly deeper so the clearance at the rub rail was worse.  I decided to use the bottom set of mounting holes to help with the rub rail clearance and keep my long shaft motor a little higher while sailing.  I picked up a scrap of some kind of synthetic decking from a local lumber yard and made a shim along with some 1 1/2in. stainless carriage bolts.  I used 3M 4200.  The white mounting board in my photos is not stock.  I am happy with how my project turned out.  I hope this may give you some help with your project.
Rich

[slowshoes]

  New owner of an '81 16 here - I've yet to splash her. After lubing my outboard bracket, I noticed that the little black handles prevent the mount from catching the holes associated with the lowest setting for the mount. (the setting that places the prop furthest into the water). The mount drops quite a bit, so it must be just missing catching the notched hole for the lowest setting. Any remedy for this? Will the outboard stay down (even in a chop) without catching the notch for the low setting in the bracket? If I use the next notch up it seems like there may not be enough prop in the water if I have to go forward. 

  Bill

[capt.brian]

I purchased a Garelick 71042. A Little bit of a over kill but raises and lowers my 5 hp Mercury fine. Basically the same weight as the 71040. But the reason I mainly went with this was due to the 14-1/4" vertical travel. Sure I won't need to lower it down to the lowest setting but with the arm longer it is just enough room to miss the rubber rail and not interfere with the mainsheet. You might want to check it out as well. I listed Garelick's chart below. Bolt hole pattern was exactly the same. No problem at all to install.

MODEL    H.P. RATING           Max wt.         TRAVEL
71040     TO 8                         59 LBS.        8-1/2"
71041     OVER 71/2 TO 20   115 LBS.        11-1/4"
71042     OVER 71/2 TO 12     82 LBS.        14-1/4"
71044     TO 30                     135 LBS.        14-1/4"

[don l]

   Thanks all, when we take the boat out in the fall, we now have the information to replace or fix.  This site is a great database of useful infor.

Now back to sailing!

[carry-on]

I realize this is an old thread, but would like to share some info I received today in an email from Garelick:



"The 71040 motor bracket is designed for a 2 stroke motor up to 8 hp and 59 lbs. This motor bracket is not designed to handle a 4 stroke motor so we would not recommend using your current motor on this outboard bracket. For safety and liability reasons we do not sell replacement parts for our outboard motor brackets. We do offer an exchange program were we replace your old bracket with a new one at a reduced price. If you are interested in this program, please contact our customer service department at 800-457-9795.



The 71033 motor bracket is designed for a 2 stroke motor but can handle smaller 4 stroke motors with 2 – 6hp and under 60 lbs.  The 71040 and 71033 do have a different hole patterns. Attached is the footprints for both brackets."


Best Regards,



Kim

I use a 2009 Nissan 4HP 4stroke on my CP-16. I did not find a model on the bracket, but from catalogs I believe it is a Garelick 71040. My problem is the motor going deeper than the setting I select..ie.slips out of the notch and moves itself to the deepest setting. I requested a replacement for the coil spring that works to hold the height adjusting handle in place.
My email request was the same day of a posting on the forum saying Garelick would not sell parts. So I did not expect any parts but sure didn't expect a reply saying the 71040 should not be used on a 4 stroke.
The Nissan weight is 58 pounds plus internal tank, so it is marginal based on weight. At the speeds I operate, would expect a design safety factor to cover the marginal load issue. Maybe the 4 stroke sets up a harmonic that the bracket does not like.Thought the 4 stroke would be smoother than a two, but the frequency of motor vibration may be an issue.
I would likely trade for a small 2 stroke with reverse before punching new holes in the transom. Don't know who makes a 3 or 4HP 2 stroke these days.
Your thoughts please.