New Picnic Cat owner... lot's of questions...

[Mokey7]

Just over a week ago, I bought my first sailboat, Hull #899. Today I finally got to spend some time with her, and clean her up a bit. Unfortunately, due to a small weather disturbance (TS Beryl), I didn't have the opportunity to launch her yet.
Regardless, I have a lot of questions...
1) The bunks on my trailer only touch the hull about the forward 1/3 length of the bunk.... Is this normal or should the back of the bunks be raised? (I should have taken a pic of this)


2) I noticed when partially raising the sail that the main halyard and the gaff halyard are somewhat difficult. Could it be that the blocks are in a really bad position? Could these be replaced


3) What is this hook thing for at the tack of the sail? Possibly for the tack reef?



4) Any suggestions on a making an adjustable outhaul for the clew.



5) Last one.... I'm assuming this was added to reef the clew. Any thoughts?


I'm looking forward to working on her and learning how to sail the boat. I'll be sailing on the St. John's river in Jacksonville. Hopefully I'll get enough practice in to show up those bigger boats at the Sun Cat Nationals! LOL!!

[capt_nemo]

Mokey7,

Welcome to the Com Pac Family. I have a Sun Cat and offer the following comments based on your great photos. (They are indeed worth a thousand words.)

In the first photo you can see clearly where the halyards exit the cheek blocks at the base of the mast and then angle downwad (which is kinda sorta OK) and OUTBOARD, WHICH IS DEFINITELY NOT OK, on their way to the fairlead equipped cam cleats. It would appear that you are experiencing more than just a little friction between the halyards and the outer stainless plates of the cheek blocks and also some where the halyard angles slightly turning through the fairlead to the cam cleat. You also get friction from the cheek blocks mounted higher than the cams since the halyard is also rubbing slightly against the bottom pin holding the cheek block together. A close look at Photo Two actually shows the red flaked halyard pressing hard and rubbing against the cheek block as it exits.  TWO POSSIBLE SOLUTIONS. One is to drill out the pop rivets holding the cheek blocks and move both of them further forward on each side AND downward to provide a direct straight line (and horizontal) lead to the cam cleats. (Use a long wood dowel with one end placed in the cheek block groove and the other end placed at the center of the cam cleat to help determine the best position on the mast.) The other is to relocate the cam cleats closer together on the coaming behind the mast to provide a straight lead. While you are doing that, raise the cam cleats up on a wooden block to get closer to a horizontal lead from cheek to cams. Photo Two shows the downward angle in the current arrangement. CHECK THAT ALL BLOCKS ABOVE ON THE MAST ARE RUNNING FREE.

The hook on the boom gooseneck is for the Reef Tack Cringle. (Absolutely worthless on Sun Cats. I use a slab reefing line like the end of the boom.)

A small line block and tackle set serves well as an outhaul with some "purchase" to it. If you find yourself prone to adjusting it frequently, install a small fairlead equipped Clam Cleat to hold the line instead of the regular small cleat.

The last photo shows the clew reefing rig. Hoist the sail and make sure that there is not a lot of extra line with the sail at full hoist. If so cut some off. Then consider using a few small plastic or stainless eye straps to help "tame" that long line from cheek block to cleat. (I use the same eye straps that hold my "always at the ready" bungee cord sail tie rig to also control my clew reef line.)

Hope these comments help. Your great photos of the problem areas are what prompted my response. And, I wanted you to experience some help from the rest of the Com Pac Family.

capt_nemo