Got my CP 16...at last!

[K3v1n]

Well I'm headed down to Maryland to retrieve my 1976 CP 16 on Friday.
Boat needs a little cleaning up and whatever else I conjure up to do to her between now and next spring. I'm not going rush to get her in the water this year. My plan is to shoot for May 1st 2006. So I'll keep you all informed along the way as I begin the refitting process. I've already learned a ton of tips and tricks and ideas from this site, thanks a bunch to everyone and I'm glad to join the group finally as an owner. Oh yeah...I only paid $998.00 for her!

[sawyer]

Congrats, I'm sure you will love it, as all of us do I am sure....
Keep us posted on the progress.........                 Doug/Newaygo Mi

[K3v1n]

Thanks!
I'm all excited, can't wait to go get her.  

[K3v1n]

Picked up the boat and made it home with no problems!  
It sure was hot though as my brother and I got the whole deal wrapped up and headed home.

I'm going over the boat and making a list of things that need to be tended to. I'll work on setting up a gallery(or does a mod have to do that for me?) for the many pictures that are sure to follow. And questions, the list is growing already. I look forward to my fellow CP owners helping hand of knowledge.

Thanks.

[Mercrewser]

I was watching that auction on ebay.  Your boat is in the same condition as mine was when I got it, right down to the rotted trailer winch stand.  I hate those trailers, but the tilt can come in handy.  If you replace the trailer tires, AVOID carlisle tires!  If you order jibsheets from Hutchins, only order one.  Also, the main sail battens they sent me don't fit my original main sail.  They sell teak already cut and finished for these boats and it's great stuff.  I got a 2hp evinrude for a hundred dollars and its the perfect size for this boat.  I would want 4 hp only for very rough unprotected waters.  I have a short shaft that works great, but I'm sure the propeller will ventilate in any real wave action, or when I go forward to raise the sails.  Good luck!

[K3v1n]

I lucked out on this deal because there is a practically brand new set of sails plus the original set and genoa. Today I pulled the tiller arm off which was pretty much falling apart. Started with removing old reg numbers and name. Did a bit of scraping on the bottom. My daughter wanted to wash the boat so we had fun just giving her a quick wash down and it helped alot with all the oxidation. You can sit in the boat now without coming out all white. A buddy of mine gave what he had left of his Poly Glo and I plan on giving that a try, but my wife threw me one of her Mister Clean Magic thingy's and that worked great but it doesn't hold up for long. So the cleaning will continue.

Question 1
Inside the cabin the fiberglass floor is just free floating and has a few cracks and holes in it. It does look like it has been repaired once before. What is the normal condition of this area? And should I just patch up the holes or do I need to pull it out and reglass it?

Question 2
The top of the cabin seems to be delaminating and feels soft when you press down from outside. I've been avoiding stepping  on top of this area.
What is the normal condition and what are my options to repair this area?

Thanks,
Now I'm off to sit in my boat and have a margarita.

[K3v1n]

Concerning outboards as you mentioned...
I was thinking a 2hp is fine for lakes and such but I plan to be out in Barnegat Bay, and it does get a bit choppy at times along with a running tide.  I was thinking perhaps I should get something bigger, perhaps a 4 or 5hp. Most likely a long shaft, I've heard a few guys run them and they work great. Oh, and yes I need to order me some new teak parts as well and I removed my "bent" bow rail, I'm thinking for now I might just go without one.

Okay now I'm gone :wink:

[crbakdesign]

Hi Kevin,


There is a lot of discussion here and in the Yahoo group website about the proper motor for a CP-16.  You might do a bit of browsing.  I agree that it is better to be slightly over HP than under.  When you get over 4 hp however, you will find that the weight of the motor, (around 60+ lbs) will tend to pull the transum down and with more than one person in the boat, the floor in the cockpit will draw water.

I recently restored a CP-16 '79 vintage, pictures on the owners site under "My Girl."  The cabin top should be solid enough to support your weight.  Under the mast, there's normally a mahogany post bolted with two 5/16-18 stainless hex heads to the forespeak bulkhead, a solid board which rises above the berths and traverses the cabin.  My post was dry-rotted at the bottom, and the holes were wallowed out.  Since this post takes most of the strain of the standing rigging and sail forces it needs to be strong.   I capped the bottom of my post with a 3/8" x 6" aluminum sleeve.  I have access to a machine shop, so that was quicker than trying to find a hardwood post. Teak is pretty robust, and you might try taking one of the rails off and try sanding and using teak cleaner before you fling the old woodwork.  If it is only weathered, it may still come back.   I'm doing that with my CP-19.

[B.Hart]

I have a 2hp evenrude on NUM1GIN, it came with the boat when I bought it. The motor has good power but I do have two MAJOR gripes. The fuel tank is way to small, and no nuetral so its best to be pointing where you want to go when you start at the dock. It is a very light motor, still I wish it had a remote larger fuel tank!  HAPPY SAILING

[Gil Weiss]

After three years of sailing a CP16 and starting with a 4 HP Tohatsu 4 stroke (58 lbs.), I believe the optimum engine is a 3.5 HP Tohatsu 2 Stroke. It is only 27 lbs (half the weight of a 4/5 hp motor and has plenty of power. It is a simple and reliable motor. I bought one two before last season and love it. Get a longstroke!

This same motor is sold under the Mercury and Nissan name. Less weight on the transom keeps water out of the scuppers and off the floor. I switched to the higher torque prop that Tohatsu recommends for heavier boats.

[K3v1n]

The 3.5 Tohatsu sounds like the way to go, thanks.
To keep you's up to date, I pulled out the cushions, which are in very good shape, and I crawled head first down the berths. Port side looked fine, plywood was sound but on the starboard side I found some mold and a bit of rot at the very end of the berth. I chipped out out a 4 x 10 section and sucked up all pieces with a shop vac. I have a small battery circle saw and I plan t5o cut back to good material and add a patch.

I also cleaned away the bottom paint from the keel where I suspected a couple of cracks, sure enough they were there.



Question: Will applying a barrier coating be a good enough fix or do I have to patch the area with fiberglass first?

Thanks,

[K3v1n]

Added some pictures in the gallery under Boat Pictures/Com-Pac 16's

Take a peek!  

[B.Hart]

The cracks should be ground out and featherd out then filled with glass or a good filler.Once it is faired then bottom paint.

[K3v1n]

It's getting there.
I told my daughter the hull should be clean by Christmas.  :wink:

[capnjohn]

Looking good Kevin.  Just curious- what are you using to strip the bottom?