Trouble removing rudder blade

[chimerakc]

I am replacing the original metal blade on my older 16 with one of the new foil shaped ones. This upgrade, from reviews, sounds like it will REALLY help the boat point and tack better.  Anyway, the handle assembly that holds the rudder blade on - I can unscrew the handle and washer, but the bolt - with the recessed head on the other side of the blade - WILL NOT come up.  The folks at compac said to just tap it out, I have used lots of lubricant with no luck.

Any suggestions?  thanks

Chimera here (yes I have 2 different DNA's in me....)

[fawsr]

MIne was stuck too but not too badly.
I put a nut on the bolt and tapped it out with a hammer after soaking it in PB Blaster.

[noonmark]

I am in the same boat as chimera. Multiple days of repeated wd40 applications, propane torch and a solid whacking... still no budge. I even tried a big "C" clamp which fit around the front of the rudder in order to press out the bolt, but to no avail! Maybe the c clamp method will help for you chimera (put a big socket over the head of the bolt to give it room to move (if you are so fortunate))
My last attempt will be to remove the pintle bolts and take the whole (damn) thing to an arbor press - seems ridiculous to have to do this for something so simple, but all this hammering and something is liable to crack. More stainless steel please.

[Bob23]

   Forget WD40. It's like water compared to PB Blaster. Truthfully. I had a similiar problem due to galvanic corrosion-stainless steel bolt in an aluminum housing and a bronze handle. If that's not a battery, I don't know what is.
   Soak, soak, and soak some more with PB. If you can take the rudder housing off and work on a bench, that will help. Put a wood backing block behind the housing and gently tap the bolt out. With time, and PB, it will come out.
bob23
Very worst case, you may be in for a new housing.

[Pacman]

Apply heat with a propane torch and tap the bolt out while everything is still hot.

The stainless bolt will not expand as much as the aluminun rudder blade, thereby increasing the relative size of the hole.

[NAY]

   you could make a small reservoir with a short length of 3/4 pvc with a 90 degree on the end and use a piece of rubber as a seal on the other. Clamp over the bolt in the rudder with a c clamp and fill with penetrating oil and let sit for a day or so. It,s worked for me.

   NAY     

[skip1930]

I used this on my 1930 Ford Model 'A' during restoration. Some 82 years of rust goes away.

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[MacGyver]

PB blaster and WD 40 is like comparing Oil and water, you really can only drink one, and the other goes in the engine.
What I mean is WD 40 SUCKS.......

PB blaster is the bomb, It works awesome, at work I used it to free up a huge drive unit lock ring (the real words are a mess, so we will just call it that) and after a week of constant soaking on it, it finally came loose!

The part (which is relatively small overall) would have cost us (the marina) about 800 dollars. so The 30 bucks in PB blaster was well worth the expense.

I did use some heat once a day to help it ease into the crevaces, beware it may catch fire it it is too hot, and anything aluminum can destabilize molecularly causing it to become worthless.

We now buy PB blaster by the gallon and fill spray bottles with it. And anything I work on I will spray then later on try to do it, made my job easier.

Good luck!

[kickingbug1]

   without that pb blaster i wouldnt have been able to disassemble my 52 ford. works for stuck rudders too i hear