CP-19 mast lights and switch rewiring project

[wes]

This started out, as these things usually do, as a small project. I had admired Billy's masthead all-around light, and thought I'd add one to my rig to make it possible to do some overnight boat camping (so far, we have daysailed only). Hutchins provided the light and with help from Billy I figured out that the sheaves fill up the entire inside of the masthead casting, leaving no room for wires inside without extreme danger of chafing on the moving halyards, so I had to run the wires on the exterior and drill a hole near the bottom of the casting to lead the wires through. To protect them, I bought a foot of rubber jacketed electrical cable at Home Depot, pulled out the inner conductors leaving only the hollow outside jacket, and used it to sheath my wires. Note the black nylon ty-rap (cable tie) near the bottom, to keep the weight of the wiring inside the mast from pulling the cable down.



This led to the realization that I needed a third conductor inside the mast since the all-around light could never be illuminated at the same time as the steaming light. So, I needed three wires through the deck connector, not two. Research turned up a Sea-Dog three pin connector identical in style to the original two pin one. While I was at it, I decided to replace the two original conductors too. Used the same trick with another piece of rubber cable jacket to protect the wires where they exit the mast and enter the male connector.



While reconnecting the original (1988) steaming light halfway up the mast, it fell apart in my hands. Discovered that Aqua Signal makes a masthead version of the Series 25 navigation lights found on my bow and stern (can't use the same light as the white stern light - the angle of coverage is different to meet USCG requirements), but it's got a flat plate on the back so it doesn't easily mount on the mast. Dug up a piece of ipe from my workshop, left over from a deck project a few years ago (ipe is a hard, oily wood similar to teak - very weather resistant) and used a bandsaw to cut it to match the mast profile. I was a little concerned because it protrudes farther from the front of the mast than the original light and might snag my 150 genoa when tacking, but in fact it's been no problem at all.



Pulled another (3rd) wire inside the cabin from the bottom of the connector down the compression post to my switch panel, and realized that Hutchins didn't provide a separate switch for an anchor light. Plus, it had always bugged me that the switch panel has the engraved switch labels located under the protruding fuse holders, so it's very difficult to lean down from the cockpit and figure out which switch is which. The old switches and fuse holders weren't in great shape either. This is where it comes in handy to work in the audio/video business. I got our custom panel fabricator to whip up a replacement panel with five switches and fuse holders instead of four, and I rearranged the panel design to put the labels on top. While I had the switch panel off, I took the opportunity to sand and refinish the teak panel (I have been using Watco teak oil on my interior teak, so far with good success - after a year still no problem with mildew in our humid NC climate).



This was a satisfying project - I feel confident that if I undertook a longer trip I wouldn't have to worry about the integrity of the original 1988 wiring. Next step is to replace the incandescent bulbs with LEDs, but boy howdy are they expensive. At the moment my 225 Ah battery seems to last forever on a single charge, but of course I haven't been sleeping out and running the lights much. That's an easy change to do later.

If anyone is interested in more details, I can provide part numbers for most of these components, and the cost and source for the new switch panel.

- Wes

[Lafayette Bruce]

Very nice classy job.
Lafayette Bruce

[Tim Gardner]

Wes - Go ahead and list the parts and sources - considering upgrading mine.

Thanks TG

[Greene]

Thanks for the project info.  I had already ordered 50' of tinned 4 conductor cable for this project, so your timing was great.  I'm going with a combo deck light/steaming light along with the all-round, so I needed the fourth wire.  Nice upgrade, especially that pretty new custom panel plate.

Mike

[brackish]

nice job Wes.  Like the new panel.  The original panel in my 23 is nicely done and in great shape with eight 12V breakers, but I've rearranged wiring to the extent that several of the breakers no longer match the engraved labeling.  Might need to change the panel front some day.

While masts are down and wiring is being replaced good time to consider wire slap prevention.  I used pipe foam from the mast base, but couldn't get by the spreaders so next time mast is down, will go in from the top with foam.  Some folks say good results with cable ties with the tails left on.

Greene, if you're going to end up on the Gulf, you might consider coax for VHF if you don't already have it.

[Lafayette Bruce]

Wes,
I did the foam pipe insulation as well and it made a big difference.  It was a challange getting past the spreaders but a couple of pins and removing one bolt, the spreader brackets come off for passage.  Well worth it.
Lafayette Bruce

[Greene]

Greene, if you're going to end up on the Gulf, you might consider coax for VHF if you don't already have it.

The 23 had coax run up to a VHF antenna, but the wire and antenna are both in bad shape.  Thanks for reminding me though as it is easier to do all at once.  Are there coax cables that stand up better in the salty environment? 

Mike

[wes]

I didn't mention it in my original post, but I did use 8" cable ties with tails left untrimmed on the wire bundle when I pulled it through the mast. I spaced them about 2' apart, to hold the bundle against the inside of the mast to prevent wire slap. I have not tried the foam idea, but found the cable ties very easy to snake through the mast including past the spreader bolts, and effective so far at preventing slap.

Wes

[brackish]

Greene, if you're going to end up on the Gulf, you might consider coax for VHF if you don't already have it.

The 23 had coax run up to a VHF antenna, but the wire and antenna are both in bad shape.  Thanks for reminding me though as it is easier to do all at once.  Are there coax cables that stand up better in the salty environment? 

Mike

I think as long as it is marine grade with tinned copper center and braid and meets the proper UL and ABYC standards for marine environment it is ok for salt.  What I really like are those Shakespeare center pin solderless connectors.  They seem to be foolproof to install and work great.

[skip1930]

No light? Grounds, it's always the grounds.

skip.

[wes]

Tim - here's the detailed parts list; hope it helps.

Bow bi-color nav light: Aqua 25100 (Defender 700234, $20.99) exact replacement for original
Stern nav light: Aqua Signal 25500 (Defender 700238, $20.99) exact replacement for original
Mast steaming light: Aqua Signal 25400 (Defender 700237, $20.99) with custom hardwood bracket
All-around anchor light: SeaDog 400020 (from Hutchins, $22.50)
3-pin deck connector (SeaDog 426263-1, Defender special order $17.99)
LED cabin dome light: Aqua Signal 16602 (Defender 701222, $45.99)
Toggle switches: Cole Hersee 54100-01 (Defender 204770, $5.99)
Fuse holders: Blue Sea Systems 5021  (Defender 201713, $2.99)
Custom switch panel, black anodized aluminum with keyed holes for above switches and fuse holders (Panel Authority T9206, $45, call them at 815-838-0488. Note that they custom produce each panel and will customize to your preference in any material including stainless, aluminum anodized, painted steel, plastic laminate etc.)