Sealants? Glues? Bedding compounds? - And: how to maintain lines?

[rdwalker]

Hi, all,

could someone kindly elaborate on what sealants are appropriate to use in sealing deck hardware? Or, if it's already posted, could you link me to a thread on that topic (I could not find anything comprehensive).

I need to take off and reinstall/reseal a few parts, such as the deck vent, the teak guides for companionway hatch, some blocks and possibly a few chainplates. I read Don Casey's book, with the mentions of applications of polysulfides, of silicone, etc, etc, but no mention of brand names.

Here, in the forum, every discussion mentions 3M 5200 or 4200 compounds. Are the right tools for the job? What is their purpose and the difference?


And, with regard to finding threads: I have read a thread describing recommended procedure for cleaning and maintaining lines. As I recall, it involved washing them in a machine and then soaking for a few days in a solution of laundry softener.
Could you point me to this thread?

Thanks in advance,  

 Robert

(CP-16 in Northern NJ)

[Cruzin]

Robert,
I would use 4200 for above the waterline applications and use 5200 for things below the waterline. The 5200 is very difficult to remove once applied so keep this in mind. I know there are some threads regarding the use and choices for sealants, but I would defer to someone more knowledgeable than myself.  There is tons of expertise in this forum and I can assure you someone can give you much more complete advice. Good luck with your boat and happy sailing!

[skip1930]

Anything that stops water and does not hurt the substrate will work. [Like plastic windows]
I always use 3-M 5200 slow set. And I can always get the pieces bedded down with 3-M 5200 slow set apart by applying heat to about 160 deg F. with a heat gun or hair dryer. A black car in direct sun light in California is about 160 deg F. About as much as the human hand can stand for a moment. Not that hot when you think about the temperatures used to mold plastics.

Everyone has their own way. But I think I use the same stuff as the factory when they put the boat together. I don't think it really makes a big difference.

Q. Why would I want to 'get it apart' if it doesn't leak? I do the wood refit on the deck letting it go natural. I have been scraping the wood with green 3-M scratch pads, knocking off the Cetol little by little. About next year I'll brighten up the teak and Minwax rub it down. Four or five coats. I did my bow sprit this way. I like it.

Lines; I toss into the wife's wash machine on cool cycle with soap, take out after spin and soak overnight in the bath tub in any kind of liquid fabric softener...nice. Drip dry. Takes a bit to un tangle the mess on the floor in front of the TV. I should bag it.

skip.

[crazycarl]

5200 is an adhesive and it's permanent.  i've removed deck hardware bedded in 5200 and it brought the gel coat with it.
very nasty.  4200 is a semi-permanent bedding compound.  removal is very possible without any damage to the gel coat.

lay blue painter's tape on the deck where the hardware is to go.  place the hardware where you want it and using an exacto knife, score around the item.  remove the item, and peel the tape off the inside area where the hardware will go.  squeeze out a proper amount of 4200 to cover the area, or perimeter.  put the hardware in place and tighten down the screws until the 4200 squeezes out, but not all the way.  you want to leave at least a quarter turn of the screw or nut.  after the 4200 has completely set, tighten down the screws, take the knife and score around the hardware and remove the tape and any extra 4200. 

the #1 mistake is to squeeze out too much of the sealant.  it should be allowed to set as to form a gasket, and then tightened down.

as for the care of running rigging,  i throw them in individual mesh bags and then into the washing machine with detergent and softner.  hang dry them.

                                                                                      carl

[rdwalker]

Thanks! I appreciate your help.  Robert.

[Bob23]

   I have also removed 5200 with my Makita heat gun set at #3 (mid-range). But I will use 4200 in the rebedding of my stanchions and bow and stern rail.
    All my lines go into a barrel filled with mild dish soap. They soak for a day or so. Then a fresh water rinse and out to dry in the sun. After that, they are all labeled and put in a bag to hibernate for the winter. In the spring I'll take 'em out and whip any ends that need a-whippin'.
I'm not adverse to using the washing machine...I just don't do it, that's all.
Bob23

[Shawn]

I switched to butyl tape this year for deck hardware and like working with it so far.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware

Shawn

[rdwalker]

I switched to butyl tape this year for deck hardware and like working with it so far.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware

Shawn

That is quite interesting. I never saw a mention of this application of rubber tape. It does have an appeal to me as it is removable - the permanent sealants do scare me.

I wonder if anyone else here had any positive or negative experiences with butyl?