First time out in C16 in 28 or so years

[deisher6]

Returned from Ft. Peck and I'll admit that I did not pick  the best day to start out. 15-30 kts of wind with thunderstorms around.  But what the heck it is a sailboat with a small 110 jib and one reef point in the main.  

Before going any further the 5-hp Mercury 2 cycle engine that came with the boat was described as having "good compression".  Rebuilt the water pump and it ran in a trash can of water until the exhaust drove me out of my shop.  

Elected to leave the bimmi on folded up over the cabin hatch, rigged a jib downhaul, decided not to reef the main right off.  The wind was at 90 deg to the dock, launched with sails rigged but lowered.  The rudder bounced a couple of times because the dock was short and the boat was tied off with a bow line while I parked the truck & trailer.  Engine started, cast off went about 50 ft and the engine stopped.  Started once more then stalled again.  There was plenty of leeway so put up the sails.  Started tacking, a little rusty and it was one of those days when the jib sheets just flog and catch on anything possible.  Got into the rhythm.  Soon enough, it became obvious that the main needed reefing, thankfully had set up the reef point before launching.  Got her done losing half of the windage made thus far. With the reefed main the boat was much more controllable still the cockpit filled twice over the lee rail.  Wished that the bottom hatch board was in place, but did not ship any water into the cabin.  Continued tacking towards a nice bluff that might provide some lee where I could briefly anchor and sort out some lines, eat a couple of pieces of pizza wrapped up in wax paper stowed in the cockpit, and sort out the engine.  Got anchored nearby the bluff, main came all the way down out of the slot, the sail stop was not replaced after reefing.  Removed the halyard, rolled and furled the main on the boom with a few hitches.   The downhaul on the jib was fouled.  While dealing with the jib, noted that the anchor was dragging, more scope.  Jib was providing to much surface area even though it was on the deck.  Unthanked the jib and stowed it below, added more scope.  Played with the engine, the fuel external/internal selector was 1/2 way between either. Started right up.  By this time the boat had drug a good 1/4 mile out of the lee of the bluff.  Thought that I knew of a better bluff a mile away.  Easily motored downwind, rounded a shallow point into the wind and proceded to get pretty wet from spray.  It is not a very dry motorboat. Left the motor in neutral and anchored in the lee of the better bluff, hoping not to get the anchor fouled in submerged trees that might have been near the shore (the lake had risen 50 ft this season).   Setting the anchor, had to be quick because with me on the bow, the engine would come out of the water with the wave action.  Obviously could not anchor close enough to the better bluff, the anchor was holding just not close enough.  While going to the stern to decide what to do and have a drink and the pizza, noticed that the pizza had washed out of the cockpit, just then the mast came down.(*&)(*^)*&%*)_(  The step looked like it was going to pull out of the cabin top and the gooseneck was twisted (it had just been straightened from damage caused by the jerk that hauled the boat in FL).  Got the boom off, removed the mainsheet.  There has to be a better way of attaching the double-block to the boom other than a small screw in a clevis.... Twisted the mast enough to remove the bolt at the step,  moved it forward and secured the the foot to the bow tabernacle and the middle midship to the halyard cleats.   Pulled the rigging out of the water and noted that the quick release pin 'quick pin' (I should know better) used to secure the forestay had come half way out.  

Recovered and secured all the rigging to ensure that the prop would not get fouled. The anchor was holding well. Considered re-rigging but the boat was pitching to much and one of the spreaders had broken at the mast.  Decided to motor back to the dock and pull the boat.  Had to sit on the foredeck to pull the anchor.  Anchor line became vertical but would not come free.   Snubbed it tight for a few waves and it still did not budge.  Did not want to put to much stress on the bowsprit because it did not have the forestay attached to distribute the load.  The engine was in and out of the water while I was forward and with tension on the anchor line pretty much out all of the time. Engine was left in neutral running, because of confidence in it starting.  Up to this point it had been used (by me) 30 minutes.  Cut the anchor line, regretting the loss of 6 foot of vinyl covered chain more than the anchor.  Motored back.  Where the wind had a good fetch, the waves were mostly 2-3 foot with occasional 4-5 footers. Their period was 6-8 feet making for a very lumpy and wet ride.  Standing in the cockpit  the spray was at least as high as my eyes.  Not sure of how long the fuel tank on the motor would last, pulled into a somewhat lee shore and topped off the tank.  Nice that the wind blew any spillage aft immediately.

Engine functioned perfectly once the fuel valve problem was diagnosed.

Pulled the boat, spent the night on it.  Of course when I pulled out in the morning it was a perfect albeit light wind sailing day *&%(*$^(^&$.

Lessons learned (relearned):
   Stow the pizza in the cabin.
   Keep the cockpit clear.
   The bimmi really gets in the way.  Though covered, the straps with spring hooks were becoming exposed providing yet another place for a flogging jib        
               sheet to snag.
   The downhaul on the jib was not effective and added to the clutter.
   Plan on sailing, not anchoring when the wind is over 15 kts.
   Do not anchor on the Dry Arm of Ft Peck unless you have a spare or it is an emergency.  I suspect that this is true most places on the lake. I told the
            story to a man who worked for DNR.  He confirmed that DNR had contributed its share of anchors to the lake.  If the Corps drops the level of the
            lake 15 more feet I will kayak back and recover my anchor.
       I used the quick pin for the fore stay because it was easy to rig and there was a lot of stuff going on at that point on the bowsprit; anchor, jib down
            haul,  jib tack.  I have had ropes fouled in cotter keys and circle clips.  I will use the stock pin in the future.

It was an exciting day on the water.  All is fixed now except for the spreaders.  I am considering using repaired spreaders that are 7/8 inch shorter than the stock ones, if the post doesn't bring my order in from Hutchins tomorrow.

regards charlie

[Tim Gardner]

Wow, Exciting!

tg

[Cevin c Taylor]

Thanks for sharing!  I don't feel so bad not about my maiden voyage.

[Al]

Nice story and lessons learned. It's nice to know that a CP16 can handle 4 - 5 foot waves.

Al

[skip1930]

 
Chuck, On Boats.Net
5hp (2-STROKE) Mercury Outboard 0G710613 THRU 0T894438 Carburetor Diagram and Parts

Here is where the 5hp Mercury carb in an exploded view can be studied. If some day hard starting and continue running problems happen to you.
You have a Keihin BCK  [ sr# of mine is 78BCOD11 ] carb.

These have a fuel delivery pump [ that large square black thing left side of the carb ]  that works off of the engine 2 cycle pulse and forces fuel into a tiny reservoir governed by two ss flapper valves and fuel is 'driven' or pumped by two thin rubber diaphragms that when pulsed draw fuel in and deliver fuel to the drilled innards of the carb body and past the needle valve into the air stream where vaporization occurs.

The fuel delivery problem, [when the fuel tank select valve is correctly selected] is that these two rubber diaphragms become stretched and fagged out and strong pulsations don't occur any more and reliable fuel delivery is not delivered to the carb. Ethanol victim? Maybe. R&R rubbers.

Additionally on my engine, the one-way check valve designed to hold the fuel in the inter fuel tank failed to pass gas either way. So I removed that and replaced it. When you here that little 'wheeeezzzz' just after a pull to start and the engine doesn't start that's the valves vibrating and the pump working.

Learn to reef BEFORE leaving the dock, Jiffy Reef is easy and can be shaken out at sea, but wrapping the main around the boom is asking for trouble once the boom is detached from the mast's slot.

If you have 'sea room' then HEAVING TOO is a maneuver that allows for a calm boat nearly parked at sea without ground tackle and with nearly no headway but a gentle down wind drift. Good way to have lunch. Or make a quick repair.

Of course there is no substitute for just sitting in the boat for an hour or two to and run every line, every out haul, every down haul, all halyards, spreader bar, and every piece of hardware through your mind. It's amazing what you'll see. If it can upcuff, it will.

I cut my dropboard into two horizontal pieces on a 45 degree to ward off water ingress. And can sail with either the top or bottom in place. No being pooped allowed. Some 150 foot of three strand nylon line, 8 foot of coated plastasol chain and Danforth anchor. Don't go too big with the line dia. You want it to stretch and absorb shock. Tie the end of the anchor line to the boat in case the anchor lets go and all disappears into the abyss. And have a smaller folding Danforth and line to-boot.

On my CP-19 I broke my dolphin under the bow sprit to bow eye, and was wondering why I saw the bow sprit bouncing up and down with the strain of the fore-stay. DAH! I looked under the bow and saw the problem. I tied a line from the eye to the bow sprit and sail home carefully. Then R&R'ed  dulphin..

skip.