Bilge

[MomentSurf]

If a boat has been on the hard for a few years, why would the bilge be filling up?  It was pumped dry at the beginning of this season and when checked a few days ago, it was right below the deck hatch.  No obviouse leaks directly into the cabin or bathroom. What else drains to the bilge (actually as I sit here and ask the question...I never looked at the front rope locker or even if the cap was on the thru hull for the anchor rope...hmmmm)?  Thanks!

[Allure2sail]

Places that the rain water can get in are:
  1: Entrance flange on the foredeck for the anchor line to enter into the anchor locker. Look in the anchor locker for wetness.
  2: Deck fitting flange for the pump out of the holding tank.
  3: Deck fitting flange for the filling of the water tank.
  4: Lift up the rub rail in the area of where the deck water run off notch is. See if the deck to hull seal has been compromised.
  5: Stanchion mounting flanges to deck sealed? Especially the two that are over the storage compartments in the galley and head. See if the aluminum backing plates for the stanchions are oxidized (corroded), It looks like white powder.
  6: Does the rub rail have any splits in it? If there ia a split some where along the length of it might suggest the boat has bounced off of something. Lift up the rub rail in that area and see if the deck to hull seal has been compromised.
  I had problems with numbers: 2, 4, 5.
  I hope you mean the inspection plate with the pull ring in the galley floor at the bottom of the stairs (bilge) and not the deck hatch it self, that's a lot of water!!!!!!!!!
Bruce

[MomentSurf]

Great!  Thanks for the info!!

Yes, the small inspection plate at the bottom of the steps.  Maybe 1'x1'.  It took only about 40 seconds to pump it out with the manual pump.  

About how much water is that?

There was also a small amout of what looked like to be engine oil in the water...I'll have to look into that as well.  If something on the engine was leaking, is this where it ends up (is there containment under the engine or does the 'bildge' under the engine leed to this space)?  

Whats under the large deck hatch (the one thats screwed down)?  Is that a seperate bilge?  Does the bilge at the bottom of the step conect to the aft storage area (where the engine is)? 


Thanks again.

[Allure2sail]

Hi:
The small cover with the lift ring is just for inspection of the bilge (say for water). The larger screwed down section gives you full access to the bilge area. Unless you plan on working in the bilge, such as cleaning and painting, fiberglass repair on the bilge box or replacing the bilge pump or float switch there is no real reason to unscrew the floor board other than being curious. Do your self a favor if curiosity does win out (LOL). Mark it bow or stern or starboard and port so it goes back the same way (guess what, I didn't and I was sorry). The other "bilge area" that will hold water is the channel that the prop shaft, stuffing box and shaft tube travels trough to the back of the keel. That as far as I can see fills up and is molded to trickle forward into the main bilge compartment in the galley. The trickle forward from there may have picked up a little oil on its trip into the bilge. The area under the engine is molded like a pan to catch any dripping from the engine itself, but it is possible some of it got splashed back there. Or it's also possible it could be from the trans, perhaps from the drain plug under the transmition. Maybe someone drained it and didn't tighten up the drain plug tight enough. Wipe everyting down and clean it up and see if you have any leakage as usage goes on. To look at tough areas go to an autoparts store and buy a mirror on a telescopic handle to see in areas that are difficult to get at.
Bruce
Additional thoughts....yes I do think to much !!!!!
I need to ask you.....has this motor been winterized? You said it has sat on the hard for a few years. If you take off the radiator cap located on the port side of the engine can you see antifreeze in  there? Was the raw water side (strainer, raw water pump, and heat exchanger been winterized? I drain all of mine (even the muffler) come wintertime. The only thing that I use the non toxic antifreeze in is the water tank and water heater, sink faucets, shower heads and holding tank (after pumpout).

[txsurbrook]

Have you checked the fresh water tank ? This holds 50 gals and a slow leak could fill  your bilge more than once.

[Tim Gardner]

Your shaft packing could have dried up after a few years on the hard and may need adjustment to stop leaking, or possibly, but worse, is it was too tight when you placed her back in the water and you have cut grooves in the shaft that now allow water in.  If you have a Mechanical Seal there, it could be leaking.

TG

[Allure2sail]

Hi:
I'm assuming (you know what happens when you do that) that your boat is still on the hard. The fresh watertank was one source that I missed, good catch!! If the boat is in the water (I assumed it was still on the hard) like the other gentlemen mentioned the shaft seal might need adjusting. When motoring my shaft seal drips once every 8 to 10 seconds. Personally I like to run them a little loose so as to not score the shaft. The bilge pump gets ride of it when it needs to, so that's not a problem. I hate to say this (memory loss) but I don't remember if it drips at all when I'm not using the diesel, guys out there help me out on that one.
Bruce

[cdreamIII]

Here is one spot I just discovered...the access port for the emergency tiller.  My boat is on the hard and I noticed an unusual amount of water in the bildge which appears to be coming from there. That one will drain under the engine & into the bildge & if the cockpit drains get plugged.....

[MomentSurf]

Thanks all!  It was raining today and I had the chance to check her out.  And yes, she is still on the hard.  Two major sources and a few minor...
-The access port for the emergency tiller (nice find cdream!) When I climbed back there...it was actually dripping!
-Entrance flange on the foredeck for the anchor line to enter into the anchor locker.  The owner has a paper towel stufed in the flange which is soaked, and the anchor rope is damp.

All the ports need to be pulled, cleaned and resealed.  The storage compartment in the head was a bit wet...I couldn't tell if it was the stantion or the port, but they both need to be checked and re-sealed.

As far as the engine goes...as well as I could tell, it was properly winterized.  Antifreeze in the radiator and looks like a non toxic antifreeze filling up the strainer.  Is there a way to tell if the raw water pump and heat exchanger have been winterized?  There is a whole bunch of oil in the bilge, its very hard to tell where its coming from but it seems that the hose used to pump out the oil from the pan (or that 90 elbow) is leaked.  I'm hoping its something simple like that.

Am I just missing it or is there no dip stick for the oil?  

PS, not my boat...YET.  I've been trying to convince to owner to sell for the past three years!  He hasn't used it in four (or maybe more).  I hate to see her sit there and I LOVE the lines.  Perfect boat for what I'm looking for!!  Maybe this summer he'll crack and let her go!!! Keep your fingers crossed!

Thanks !!!

[Allure2sail]

Hi:
there should be a dipstick to check the engine oil on the starboard side of the engine. It's pretty low on the engine block more towards the front of the engine. There is no dipstick tube, the dipstick enters into the block by way of a hole in the casting, it is about a quarter in diameter. If the engine was used without a dipstick in place I believe you would end up with a mess down under the engine (especially the starboard side of the engine pan. The resealing of the portholes is a bigger project in itself. If you do a search under Allure there is a tread that details removing the portholes, replacing the glass with smoked lexan and resealing the porthole openings and the teak interior panels also reinstalling the ports as well. The access plate for the emergency rudder I believe has an o'ring. You might be able to get away with just replacing the o'ring if the plate itself not cracked or damages.