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Boom Vang mounting deck plate and bails

Started by Salty19, October 26, 2010, 11:03:09 AM

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Salty19

I have placed a boom vang "on the list" for winter modifications to the CP19 and am looking for feedback and advice on it.

My plan is to build or buy a rigid stainless plate (flat on bottom, curved on sides with a hole for a shackle aft) fitted under the tabernacle for a lower attachment point  as well as a bail thru-bolted on the boom for the upper attachment point.  No rivits or screws here!  I've also seen what appears to be bail-like assemblies that would use the existing bolt through the mast/tabernacle as a lower attachment point, however those threads were by David Serrel and he deleted every last one of them.

Question is has anyone fitted one, and if so, what exact hardware did you use to mount it?  I will probably go with the Harken small boat vang components with cam cleat, but I'm not sold on it yet.  Pictures or a good description of your solid mounting solution would be appreciated!!!

"Island Time" 1998 Com-pac 19XL # 603

brackish

#1
Salty, I installed one on my 23 using a bail/pivot bolt assembly and it worked perfectly.  One of the Boomkicker bails with the rolling shackle has an ID dimension that is snug perfect on the 23 mast step.  Is the 19 the same step? (revised)

Those bails are aluminum but extremely strong and the rolling shackle is a nice feature as the lower block stays aligned perfectly all the time.  The only other hardware I had to get for the lower/mast end was a longer pivot bolt.

For the boom  I used a SS strap bail that had an id that was snug fit on the boom and a through bolt/acorn nut.

I looked through my pictures and don't seem to have an installed picture but will take one next time I'm up at boat.  Here is the vang with the hardware attached.

Note: post modified with new pic.  When set up the vang was reversed so the cleat was high.


Salty19

Brack..thank you.  This looks exactly to be the type of fastening I'm considering.  Strong and bulletproof...just how I like it.

Suppose I need to do some measuring to find the proper bail inner diameter.  The boat is an hour away so I thought I would ask.  So to be clear, the mast attachment bail (to the left in your pic) glides over the mast and the bolt you've shown through this bail replaces the mast bolt.  The bail on the right in your pic is bolted through the boom entirely.   Sound right? 

"Island Time" 1998 Com-pac 19XL # 603

brackish

#3
Quote from: Salty19 on October 26, 2010, 03:26:50 PM
Brack..thank you.  This looks exactly to be the type of fastening I'm considering.  Strong and bulletproof...just how I like it.

Suppose I need to do some measuring to find the proper bail inner diameter.  The boat is an hour away so I thought I would ask.  So to be clear, the mast attachment bail (to the left in your pic) glides over the mast and the bolt you've shown through this bail replaces the mast bolt.  The bail on the right in your pic is bolted through the boom entirely.   Sound right?  



The mast attachment bail actually attaches on the outside of the step on both sides.  It is plenty deep enough to have all the clearance you need for it to rotate up and not interfere with the back of the mast or step.  The bail internal dimension at the holes (the bail has clearance holes for a 3/8"bolt which is what my 23 has) are exactly the outside dimension on the step.  I use 1/8" nylon spacers between the step and the mast on both sides to keep the step from bending in when the bolt is tightened and that keeps everything properly oriented.  In fact, since I started using the bail, it will not give and let the step bend in so the spacers are just to take up the slack.  I'll take a picture later this week.

I can rotate the mast down with the bail on, however, I have to take off the roller shackle first or it will keep the mast from rotating all the way down.

There are a number of different boomkicker bails, so there may be one that fits the 19.  Or maybe the step is the same one used for the 23 and has the same width.  If I recall the bail and roller was about thirty bucks.

Yes on the boom attachment, it may be overkill in that many use pad eyes attached to the boom, but I think this is stronger.  And I think it cost less than a curved base pad eye.  Think I may have used a nylock nut on that rather than an acorn, and cut off the bolt grinding the end smooth and flush with the end of the nut.  Nylock let me tighten it somewhat loose so I didn't have to worry about it compressing or dimpling the side of the boom and there was not a lot of bolt sticking out to catch on things.


brackish

#4
I've also seen what appears to be bail-like assemblies that would use the existing bolt through the mast/tabernacle as a lower attachment point, however those threads were by David Serrel

BTW I noticed a couple of weeks ago that David put his boat up for sale on Sailing Texas.  No picture of his vang attachment, but contact info if you want to see what he did.

http://sailingtexas.com/201009/scompac19121.html

Wish I knew what happened with him.  He was always so helpful with advice and ideas.  Hope he is doing OK.

Salty19

Thanks, and yep that's Pachabella alright!  Price is kind of steep but I recall this boat was among the nicest out there and equipped like no other.
"Island Time" 1998 Com-pac 19XL # 603

Scott Statz

Hello

I built my Boom Vang from scratch because I wanted it exactly my way. 

Here is the goose neck that fits in the mast slide.
I just put her in storage but I'll get you some more photos and a materials list with sources and costs.
I also incorporated a Boomkicker.

You can see more photos of my CP23 at my  PhotoBucket page http://s826.photobucket.com/home/mss-cp23/index
http://s826.photobucket.com/home/mss-cp23/index

MSS

curtisv

I simple took a large eye strap and through bolted it to the mast.  I used a short length of rod inside the mast track and drilled through that as well.  The boom attachment is a bail bolted through the boom.

Curtis
----------------------------------
Remote Access  CP23/3 #629
Orleans (Cape Cod) MA
http://localweb.occnc.com/remote-access

brackish

#8
Here is a picture of the vang bail and roller shackle on the mast. 


Bob23

That's pretty dang nice, Brack. And a good shot of the mast foot which was being discussed on another thread, another time. You really keep a clean boat.
Bob23

curtisv

Brack,

Those look like Ronstan blocks.  Is this something you did yourself leading the halyards back to the cockpit?  The newer CP23 have line led aft but I think Shaefer blocks are used and there is a large base through bolted with four bolts each.



You can see the blocks and each base in the photo.  I'd be uneasy about screws into the gelcoat holding the halyards.  If that is what you've got there you might want to upgrade your design at some point.

Curtis
----------------------------------
Remote Access  CP23/3 #629
Orleans (Cape Cod) MA
http://localweb.occnc.com/remote-access

brackish

#11
Quote from: curtisv on November 01, 2010, 11:22:41 PM
Brack,

Those look like Ronstan blocks.  Is this something you did yourself leading the halyards back to the cockpit?  The newer CP23 have line led aft but I think Shaefer blocks are used and there is a large base through bolted with four bolts each.


Curtis


They are Ronstans but they are Hutchins installed (boat is an '05).  Hard to see but they have a SS base that has a countersink profile for the screws.  The blocks are through bolted with a backer plate.  All the factory installed running rigging blocks on my boat are Ronstans.  For the aft led halyards, I like your Shaefers better, but am not uneasy about the Ronstans.  One of them is just used for a topping lift; the other, currently main halyard will probably be converted to a lower load application, tack line adjuster or chute scoop control line.  Then heavier pair on the other side.

Won't add anything that is not through bolted having chased core rot on a previous boat that did that for low load applications.  If through bolted and a leak occurs, you know it, it is self draining and you can fix it.  If it is screwed into the GRP you don't know it until you get core rot or freeze damage.  Compacs don't have balsa core but freeze damage is a possibility.  And they do have wood reinforcing in the area of the halyard lead blocks.  I'm also a little nervous about the wood trim on the sides of the cabin trunk which I assume are just held with all purpose screws into the GRP.

Salty19

MSS, curtisv and Brack-Thanks for the great ideas!    Brackish, I may just copy your setup (imitation is the sincerest form of flattery!).

Once I figure out the right parts to fit the 19 vs. 23, I'll post them up here (will be a few weeks minimum). I suspect I'll need narrower bails than what the 23 require so better to measure first!

"Island Time" 1998 Com-pac 19XL # 603

Greene

Imitation - schmimitation!  Let's steal the idea and run with it.  I don't need it, can't afford it, have no reason to install it,  but of course I'm going to get it.  

Keep us posted on part #'s and sources.

Mike
'84 CP-16 (sold) - '88 CP-19II (sold) - '88 Com-Pac 23/3 (sold)
http://s613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/greene2108/


"I'm just one bad decision away from a really good time."

http://wrinklesinoursails.blogspot.com

rwdsr

Hey Mike!
Love the picture of Puppy Luff II under full sail!
1978 AMF Sunfish, Sold, 1978 CP16 #592, "Sprite" - Catalina 22 "Joyce Marie"http://picasaweb.google.com/rwdsr53/Sailboats#