Age Old Question probably - How do you get rid of old boat number imprint?

[DOUG142]

New com-pac, old boat numbers.....I got rid of the numbers and the gummy stuff/ glue.  Yet there is still a discolored imprint of the number there.
Survey of sorts, I guess.

What does everybody use to clean their hull of old stickers?

Or do I just move on and let it fade away?
Doug

[Craig Weis]

You want to hand rub the spot with an aggressive cleaner over this fiberglass, but first you did heat the old numbers with a paint stripping heat gun to soften and then lift off using just a cornor of a razor blade to get the sticker loose enough to grab and pull all the while heating to 160 deg F [that's as hot as a black car in full sunshine on a California beach.] and gently pulling the sticker away.

Then use an aggressive cleaner like Mequire's #19.

skip.

[CaptRon28]

The best thing around to remove adhesives is "3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner", sold in spray cans and other containers. I've been restoring old cars most of my life and this will take almost anything off. Probably not a bad idea to test it out on a small hidden area first, but I've never had a problem.

[Caboose]

Face to fact that the rest of the boat paint has faded and the covered paint did not fade.

[Salty19]

Doug,

I had the same problem.  What's happened is the gelcoat (not paint) has oxidized over the years.  But the sun didn't make it's way through the letters so that area is not oxidized.

To remove oxidation, you have to use abrasives.  Then to get it all shiny, fine abrasives. 

My boat when received...drab and dull.  When I removed the letters and name you could plainly see them.



Now the after pic...wetsanding, compounding, then polishing.



They won't dissappear anytime soon, it will take years for it to blend in unless you remove the oxidation around the area.

I can't see a trace of the former letters or boat name anymore!!!

[curtisv]

Salty,

That is one beautiful hull.  Makes me want to wet sand, compound, and polish my topsides.  I need to retire first.

How is it that your striping tape is in perfect shape?  Mine looks like it is time to take it off, all scraped up and peeling or missing in places.

Curtis

[David]

Salty,
I see you did that on a 98 model 19 and you also had an 80's model 16.  I have a 1980 16 and fear the fiberglass may be to thin from years of use. 
However, I would like to try to get a shine and replace water line tape that is missing in sections.

What sequence of paper weights and type of compound/polish, etc. did you use.  Did you do it by hand/machine buffer?

DAVID

Doug,

I had the same problem.  What's happened is the gelcoat (not paint) has oxidized over the years.  But the sun didn't make it's way through the letters so that area is not oxidized.

To remove oxidation, you have to use abrasives.  Then to get it all shiny, fine abrasives. 

[Salty19]

David,  I posted the method used here:

http://cpyoa.geekworkshosting.com/forum/index.php?topic=3071.0

What you're really trying to do is the remove a thin layer of oxidation from the gelcoat, then polish it.   You should not have any trouble breaking through this layer to the fiberglass, the gelcoat is relatively thick on Compacs.  Just stay away from power sanders.   Gelcoat doesn't get thinner over time naturally so there should be plenty of material left when you're done.

For a 16 hull, count on about 25 hours of work (including acquiring supplies) to clean, hand wetsand, machine compound/polish and hand wax.  But once it's done a good coat of wax will keep the finish shiny indefinitely.  Mine still looks great after sitting in a slip all year...the 3 coats of wax are still working.

If something is unclear, just ask.  Maybe I'll start another post on this?

Curtis,  the stripes were in excellent shape when I acquired the boat. Although it's a 1998 model is was not launched until 2003. Then it had very little use since until this year.  Truth is the teal hull color makes the oxidation very visible (first pic) whereas tan or white hulls tend blend in with oxidation and consequently doesn't look as bad.

[GlennB724]

Salty... VERY nice.  She looks so darn tropical, it just makes me want to drink a pina colada.  ;-)   I'm curious about your masthead.  Not the stock unit, did you change it out, or add on to the original?  I added a bracket to mine for a topping lift and an additional halyard for a spinnaker/drifter, but it's no where near as elegant looking as yours.

[Salty19]

Glenn, the masthead is original issue.   There should at least be a small hole in any CP masthead for a topping lift to pass through with knot tied in the back.  Check for one to fit 1/8" or 3/16" line. 

Thx for the kind words about Island Time.  She sails as good as she looks, too!

[curtisv]

Curtis,  the stripes were in excellent shape when I acquired the boat. Although it's a 1998 model is was not launched until 2003. Then it had very little use since until this year.  Truth is the teal hull color makes the oxidation very visible (first pic) whereas tan or white hulls tend blend in with oxidation and consequently doesn't look as bad.

That makes sense.  My CP23 is newer but went in the water in 2001 and has been on a mooring and sail a lot most of the seasons between then and now.  Sails just as well with chalky gelcoat but a shiny hull sure does look great.

Curtis