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Mast stepping information needed on ComPac 16

Started by seatime, June 08, 2010, 12:50:55 PM

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seatime

HI,

Can you folks give me some easy instructions on stepping the mast single handed
on my Com-Pac 16.

Thanks,

Seatime

Greene

I stepped the mast quite a few times by myself on our 16.  It seemed fairly easy and straightforward.  One thing I found helpful was to secure the frontstay to the mast about 4 or 5 feet from the base.  I used one of the those ball end bungees to wrap it to the mast because they are easy to attach or loosen one handed.  With the front stay attached to the mast I stood in the middle of the cockpit and moved the base into the tabernacle.  From there it is simply a matter of checking the back stay and shrouds to ensure they aren't going to get tangled on anything, walk the mast up to vertical, unhook the bungee to free the frontstay, and then going forward to the bow while holding tension on the stay.  Some of the guys said they used the jib halyard to tie to the bow for security, but I never felt it was necessary.  Make sure you have taken some loosening turns on the turnbuckle to make it easier to attach the pin.  I really liked having a quick release pin to secure the turnbuckle as it made the job so much easier.  Take some turns on the turnbuckle to get the mast vertical or slightly raked forward and you are good to go.

It is easier with two people, but it goes pretty well with one after you do it a couple of times.

Mike
'84 CP-16 (sold) - '88 CP-19II (sold) - '88 Com-Pac 23/3 (sold)
http://s613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/greene2108/


"I'm just one bad decision away from a really good time."

http://wrinklesinoursails.blogspot.com

JBC

I'll toss in my $.02 here, and add a couple of things.  It helps to have a mast crutch at the stern to help balance the mast when pulling it back so that the mast base is ready to step; easier to put the bolt through, too.  Before I made a crutch for my 16, I just set up a small ladder in the cockpit for the mast to rest on.  Second, it's important that the shrouds are attached prior to raising the mast (Don't know about the backstay mentioned above, as my 16 doesn't have one).  I find raising the mast singlehanded to be pretty easy, actually, but I do have to step up onto the cabin top when walking it up, and down when lowering it, which is a bit awkward sometimes.

Jett

Salty19

Welcome to the forum.

I was not able to make that happen when I had the 16.  I just didn't feel comfortable walking forward with the forestay in hand up there.  Legs would wobble like a little sissy-girl.    Instead I would raise 'er up and the admiral (downgraded to first mate when sailing) would clip the forestay while on the pavement.   Oddly enough I had no problem walking forward on the 16 when it was in the water.  Must be a psychological thing of falling in soft water vs. concrete.   Don't worry, I'm seeking help.

Very good and fast method from Greene IF you're comfortable doing so. Otherwise attach the jib halyard to the base of the mast, the other end wrap around the bow pulpit.  With halyard in hand in cockpit, raise the mast, pull the halyard tight and secure it. Then get off the boat and attach the forestay.  
"Island Time" 1998 Com-pac 19XL # 603

Greene

Yep, definitely only if you are comfortable doing it that way.  On my 84 there wasn't a bolt to attach the mast to the tabernacle.  The mast had pins on both sides (port/starboard) which slipped into slots on the tabernacle.  I use the same method on my 19 now to step it by myself, but when walking it up from the cockpit to the cabin deck it seems like a much bigger step.  My 16 didn't have a backstay either (19 does) so I included it in my description above.  At 52 I still feel like a linebacker, so I probably still use brawn over brain (which in my case isn't saying very much) too often.  Maybe as I age some more I'll figure out that using some mechanical advantage for these types of activities is easier. 

Still learning.

Mike

'84 CP-16 (sold) - '88 CP-19II (sold) - '88 Com-Pac 23/3 (sold)
http://s613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/greene2108/


"I'm just one bad decision away from a really good time."

http://wrinklesinoursails.blogspot.com

seatime

I'd like to thank each of you for your very helpful information..

hard sails and tight halyards to ya, laddies!

Seatime

mrb

Welcome seatime

I'm 64 and have been stepping mast on 21 ft. boat and my CP-16 by myself for years and prefer to do it myself as don't have to worry about some one else making a mistake.

In the 16 I step it as described by others here with exception I do use the jib hailyard to hold mast up while I attach fore stay.  I stand in cockpit close to companionway and simply lift mast until it is high enough that halyard can be used to finish raising mast then cleat the jib halyard off. No worry about mast falling now while I walk forward to hook stay.

I have seen more than one mast fall because some one unhooked the forstay ( or slipped while crossing deck) without having something like a halyard hooked to take load of mast before or after unhooking forstay.  Only takes a few seconds to hook jib halyard to pulpit.  Only took seeing one mast drop on someone Else's boat to make me glad that I take that few seconds.

Good sailing,  Melvin

Billy

MRB,
so true, and since these 16's don't have a stern pulpit the top mast will fall below the mast step, which will rip the tabernacle up and out of the fiberglass. This is bad!

Best to have a mate if not then use the halyard. Since the 16's are a 7/8 rig or (something close) it is best to use the jib halyard instead of the main as you get more forward pull than lift.
1983 Com-Pac 19 I hull number 35 -no name-

Darenmagness

what about shroud tightnes.  What are the guidelines for determing the tightnes of the shrouds?

Pacman

The posts above describe most of the procedure I use:

Unhook the trailer from the tow vehicle.

Lower the tongue jack as much as possible so the bow is lower than the stern.

Put a jack stand under the back of the trailer.

Raise the trailer jack just enough to stabilize the trailer on the jackstand.

Place a step ladder behind the boat.

Rest the mast on the step ladder.

Insert the bolt that holds the mast in place on the tabernacle.

Run the jib halyard through a block on the bow.

Straighten the shrouds so they won't foul anything as the mast is raised.

Climb into the cockpit.

Hold the jib halyard in one hand while raising the mast with the other hand with tension on the jib halyard to help raise the mast.

As soon as the mast passes vertical, gravity will hold it in place by the shrouds (that's why I put the bow lower than the stern) but I cleat the jib halyard as a backup.

Attach the forestay and adjust tension if necessary.

It sounds like lots of steps but they are easy to do and make the mast-raising process a one-man job.

All you need is a tall mast crutch or a step ladder and a jack stand.

Com Pac 16: Little Boat, Big Smile

deisher6

Very good techniques.  However, I would not use a quick release (anymore) I was using the type with the plunger on the end and two bearings at the other end last summer and it released causing the mast to come down (and tear up the step).  Went back to using the round spring clips.

regards charlie

Billy

shroud tightness huh?????

i just guess. Not too tight, not too loose. Really you just want them to hold the mast up. You want a little slack on the leeward side and taunt on the windward. If both sides are tight when under sail then they are too tight. you don't want to pull the mast down through the cabin top.

But have them tight enough so that you can use them to grab onto. Also, make sure they are the same. look up the mast to make sure they are even and there are not any bends in the mast.

there is a tension device you can get, but I just guessed on my boat. It's got a little wiggle but not too much. plus the tighter the stays are the more likely they will snap.
1983 Com-Pac 19 I hull number 35 -no name-

Pacman

Like Billy says, not too tight. 

You definitely do not want any "violin string" "twang" when picked.

A bit of slack on the leeward shroud during a beam reach is a good indicator.

The most important thing seems to be to set the forestay so the mast is vertical before taking the slack out of the shrouds.

Many of you know that I am experimenting with a rotating mast base on a standard rig and I have found that it works best with a bit of slack on in shrouds like a catamaran.

Also, a rig with a bit of slack is stronger than one that is too tight, just like lifelines.

Com Pac 16: Little Boat, Big Smile

whitecap

i learned something new here today.  i've always clipped a line to the top of the bow pulpit, stepped the mast & cleated it to to the jib cleat until i go up front & attach the forestay.  using the jibsheet is a way better method then mine as the attachment point is much further away from the natural pivot point (the bottom of the mast) & is a much stronger temporary fix.  also, i  have no trouble walking the mast up myself, holding it up with one hand until i get it cleated off with the other.