Pls clear my doubts

[JF AIR]

When I took my CP23 out of water and up on trailer last year, a bad movement while pulling brought the weight of the boat on the trailer' s back rollers with the bow tilting a bit upward...
Instead of starting over the operation , my crew reeled in the boat with the trailer's sling
I remember earing a cracking
Now if I knock under the hull , aprox where the rollers had pressured the hull, I get a resonnant sound back wich is different than the the other areas that sound back much sturdier
My question is if any of you still have their CP23 out of water and on trailer , would the hull be thinner in the middle hull area compared to aft and fwd hull area...The area that I am trying to describe would be in line with the rollers parallele to the keel on aprx 5 ft...
I see NO visual indication in or out but I get a rattlelike noise when I hit the hull hard enough with my hands
I may go to a surveyor...
jf

[Craig Weis]

"The area that I am trying to describe would be in line with the rollers parallele to the keel on aprx 5 ft..."

So the CP-23 is on the trailer now. I assume without knowing that the boat is sitting 'proper' on her trailer. And you did not sheer off the keel bunks. I cut mine off. There a pain in the butt and who needs them? For what? The hull bunks make an arch that the boat fits right into. Can't slide fwd or back and if the keel is on the center of the rollers 'It Don't Get No Better Then That'.

I would not worry about the hull. The keel is poured concreate with a wee bit of pig iron tossed in. NOT 100% of the keel is filled with cement fore and aft. The aft part is hollow where the bilge is. We need the shape but not the ballast here. Sounds hollow when you thump on it. 'Cause it is.

What I want you to do is to let 99% of the boat's weight to rest/ride/sit/push down/ and be supported by the keel rollers. Now bare in mind that the keel will never touch all the rollers at the same time. Not suppose to. And figure out where the best place for the rubber Vee Block is suppose to be. And put that whole assemble there on the trailer. I moved mine a zillion times before I was happy. Actually had to take the situation in hand and work out a solution. I moved the Vee Block on the assembly to miss the bow eye where the strap is hooked on to pull the boat in.

Go look up my CP-19 Trailer posts and take the weight off of the hull bunks that hold the hull up-right. I have mine set-up so if I push hard on the hull, and it rocks just a bit I can nearly pull a tee shirt rag out from between the hull and the carpeted 2 x 4 boards balancing the boat on the trailer. If there is any oil-canning of the fiberglass hull, this is where it will be. No worry she'll pop back out once it's back in the water. You did not break anything. The hull is resign impregnated fiberglass woven cloth that has been rolled into the mold. "Strong Like Bull". Not a chop gun blown in fiberglass material That is very weak. Only good for making fiberglass dune buggy bodies.

The vertical 2" x 2" square steel posts holding the hull bunks can be adjusted vertically one at a time. Take the pressure off, then jack each one back up to the hull till it just touches. lock her back down. Hint: I use Permatex NeverSeaze on the locking 3/4" bolts to keep them from rusting up the threads. Start in the front and work your way back. Both sides.

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