Teak Companionway Boards

[jamato323]

I trying to decide on replacing my plywood companionway with teak. Searched the site and didn't see a discussion on it for info.
Has anyone done this either yourself or vendor? I also think Hutchins sells them aftermarket but didn't see it on their website.
Thanks

[brackish]

I did replace my plywood companionway drop boards with solid teak.  Not on my ComPac, but on my last boat, a Columbia 8.7.  I was very pleased with the results. 

Boards had to be "glued up" that is joined laterally to get the full width necessary.  It is good practice to do this anyway, most recommend that the maximum width for a piece in a glue up panel be 4-5".  This prevents cupping of the wider single board.  Alternate the direction of grain between the pieces (looking at the end grain), also to minimize cupping.  A polyurethane glue (Gorilla or other) good, but I've used Franklin titebond three with good waterproof results. 

I do have a full woodshop (all types of saws, jointers, planers, drum sanders, etc) so easy to do for me, however, making flat drop boards not to difficult for the lesser equipped woodworker.

My 23/IV came with solid teak drop boards so probably will never have to replace them, however, if I do I'll see about sending them to Hutchins to see if they would use their router/carver to put that classy insignia on there.

[Steve Ullrich]

My current hatch board is marine plywood with a thin teak veneer that is pretty much shot.  I've considered making a new one this summer.  I've used solid teak in the past as I love the look of solid teak.  An option that some may wish to consider is marine board. Comes in a variety of colors. Can be cut/machined with woodworking tools. Waterproof and will probably last nearly forever.  West Marine and others sell it in assorted sizes. Here is a factory source for consideration:

http://thecuttingboardfactory.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=TCBF&Category_Code=4MB

I trying to decide on replacing my plywood companionway with teak. Searched the site and didn't see a discussion on it for info.
Has anyone done this either yourself or vendor? I also think Hutchins sells them aftermarket but didn't see it on their website.
Thanks

[Salty19]

Agree with Steve on using Starboard.   I made one for the 16 and it does look good...no maintenance too. Put a small handle on it foe easy removal and reinstallation. 

Will be cutting one out for the 19 this weekend as the standard board pretty much looked like hell. The 16 build was one piece but on the 19 I'll cut it horizontally in two with an angle cut (to prevent water from coming in).  It will be easier to handle and stow, plus the bottom can be quickly inserted for heavy weather.  Not that I get a lot of that where i sail, but there will be a time it will come in handy plus again it's easier to stow. 

Also making a 1' x 22" "lunch tray" to use while prepping sandwiches and the like. It will wedge itself between the footwell. Should be strong enough to stand on if needed too.  I made a plywood version for the 16 and used it often.  Even cutout holes and "webbed" the openings for cupholders with Amsteel 1/8 line.  That way it can hold drinks but stows flat without a cupholder protrusion.

I realize starboard is not as pretty or Salty as teak.  However it more than makes up for it maintenance, strength, and long term useability.--at least for me anyway.  It's easy to work with standard woodworking tools albeit a little harder to sand.  But no oil, sealant, or varnish to worry about..ever.  The disadvantage is it's a little heavier, perhaps 20% heavier than plywood.  Not a big deal.

BTW defender.com sells it for much less than West Marine. Search "taco" or "starboard" on the site as it cannot be found otherwise.

[jamato323]

Thanks Salty. I had a Nimble Kodiak that used a lot of Starboard for cam cleat and winch bases as well as grab rails. I'm still leaning toward teak for the SunCat as it is
more traditional. I'll give Hutchins a call and see if I can drive up and clean their shop for a month in exchange for a discount. Good suggestions, thanks again.

[newt]

I wonder if these boards can be milled out or Trex or some other plastic wood replacement. Seems to me it would last as long as teak, maint free, without the price. On my Cat 27 we had some boards made out of Lexan that were great.

[Glenn Basore]

The other night I was watching some program about boating, they were at a boat show (in Florida I think) and talking to different vendors about their products.

One of the products was a "simulate teak" which was used ever where on boats (exterior or interior) looked like a good produck.

The vendor said the product was user friendly or it could be professional installed.

Glenn

[rwdsr]

I was just up to Lowe's the other day and was looking at this faux wood (recycled plastics) that they use for decks now.  It looked just about the same color of unstained, unfinished teak.  One piece about 12 feet long costs in the neighborhood of I think $28.00.  I think when the wood finally goes on my 16, I'm going to replace it all with this stuff.  No more rot, staining, replacing, or any of that.  In fact, I'm thinking of doing my porch deck with it.  Kind of pricey, but it'll last at least till after I've set sail for the last time.

[Tim Gardner]

Not that any of us would turtle our boats on the open sea,  I have a problem with strength of the "Faux Woods"  The don't have a very high bending modulus.  A rogue wave that poops one could push the plastic into the cabin and flood it - Talk about a downer! 

I think I'll stay with teak or mahogany in keeping with the rest of my boat.

TG

[Napier6]

jamato,  I've always just e-mailed  Hutchins and gotten a very good price on everything  I've managed to break.  Matthew Hutchins is the parts manager at matth@gate.net.  I've got to replace a starboard side teak hatch slide I stepped on and cracked. They'll get me a new one for $26, much easier than locating 4/4 48" long teak and milling. I also looked at thaiteakmarine.com which has some nice teak.  

But I'm including two pictures of my less than $10 solution.  I am having problems with leakage at the mast partners and the trapped air causing mold.  I installed a Nicro-vent on the foredeck which didn't clear it all up.  I had some pine laying around in the garage and got a plastic vent for $5.49 (Louvered Ventilator), and some SS bolts from West Marine. That plus a couple bolts and some paint and a spare hinge I had was a good way to get a spare hatch for under $10.00 (labor not included!).  This is my spare.  This summer I'd like a teak hatch with a nice varnish job, but it's got to have some ventilation.  Maybe a set of louvered inserts.  Please post what you come up with.

[newt]

Tim, I disagree. The Trex deck I have is stronger than the wood it replaced. I think one inch thick trex would hold until the whole hatch gave away. But I agree with you- we should build with turtling and getting pooped (from an aft wave) in mind...
Teak is so expensive...I will continue to look for alternatives.

[Bob23]

   Yes, teak is expensive but in the eternal scope of things, isn't she worthy of the best? I don't have this dilemna yet; my 23 has what I assume are the original boards- teak vaneered plywood and they've held up well. I love the high gloss of the Flagship varnish. Ventilation is achieved via a solar vent mounted on the cabin top. I still get some moisture down in the boat...it is a boat after all, sitting in water!
Bob23

[jamato323]

I called Gerry Hutchins yesterday and got a price of $295 for teak companionway boards for the SunCat. He wasn't sure
he could carve the Hutchis Logo on them because of their size. I'm leaning that way because I'd like to varnish them to
match the tiller but piggy is skinny right now.

[nkjohnson]

I replaced my 16/3 plywood one piece board with the plastic wood grained deck board from Lowes. Made it two pieces with a bevel between. I like the looks of it and it needs no maintenance.

I did have to reduce the thickness with a planer (which ruined the blades) but the overall result was positive.

Neal

[curtisv]

   Yes, teak is expensive but in the eternal scope of things, isn't she worthy of the best? I don't have this dilemna yet; my 23 has what I assume are the original boards- teak vaneered plywood and they've held up well. I love the high gloss of the Flagship varnish. Ventilation is achieved via a solar vent mounted on the cabin top. I still get some moisture down in the boat...it is a boat after all, sitting in water!
Bob23

Is anyone else interested in teak at a reasonable price.  There is a place that sells hardwood sort of near me that has left over teak flooring from years ago (decades ago?) that I've been buying for a while.  The owner keeps encouraging me to just buy out the remainder of his dwindling stock at a better price than the small amount I have been buying.  The only catch is it is 1x3 to 1x4 boards 8-9 ft long and its rough cut.  He's been selling it to me at 2-3 $/bd-ft to get rid of it.  It would cost a few thousand to empty his stock so I've just been buying what I expect to need for a few years at a time.  I've rip cut to 1/4-1/2 inch or less and run through the power planer depending what I needed to do (mostly CP23 interior).

Curtis

btw - Bob23 - Conway Harwoods in Gaylordsville CT isn't too far away from NJ for you to head over there.  Its a sawmill with a store in the front.  Mostly local tree come in and come out as flooring stock or as lumber for the local custom furniture craftsmen still remaining in NW CT.  If you buy oak or maple or even walnut or cherry, chances are it came from closeby.