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NACA-0014 Rudder Modification Underway

Started by Greene, February 01, 2010, 09:31:18 PM

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kahpho

Great pictures, thanks for showing us your work. Very nicely done!

One question for the gallery, would it be easier to 'glass if the top edge was tapered to the core plate? Or would it really make a difference?

mel
'07 Legacy "Amphibian"

Greene

Quote from: kahp ho on February 07, 2010, 12:46:07 PM
Great pictures, thanks for showing us your work. Very nicely done!

One question for the gallery, would it be easier to 'glass if the top edge was tapered to the core plate? Or would it really make a difference?

mel

Thanks,  I was wondering about that as well.  I am also undecided about how to finish the bottom edge.  Would it be better to taper it as well?
Mike
'84 CP-16 (sold) - '88 CP-19II (sold) - '88 Com-Pac 23/3 (sold)
http://s613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/greene2108/


"I'm just one bad decision away from a really good time."

http://wrinklesinoursails.blogspot.com

Craig Weis

Bottom edge on the IdaSailor rudder is just rounded nicely and DOES follow a wide in front narrow in back taper. I don't think I'd fill in the tangent where the leading edge 'hits' the blade. Just carry on the foiled shape.

skip.

Glenn Basore

Mike,

great job..................cant wait to see the final product and read about your test sail with the new rudder.

kickingbug1

   hey mike, that is one first rate job. im inspired. even though i have an ida rudder (got lucky got one when they were still reasonable) on my 16, i might just take the old blade and follow your pattern. maybe if you could pass that template along to me i would appreciate it. im always up for a new project. send me an e mail if you would    thanks buddy my best to brenda
oday 14 daysailor, chrysler musketeer cat, chrysler mutineer, com-pac 16-1 "kicknbug" renamed "audrey j", catalina capri 18 "audrey j"

Bob23

Sounds like Mike could be starting a new business- "The Mike-a-Rudder".
Bob23

Greene

Thanks everyone, but lets remember that the original idea, plan and template are all courtesy of Doug142.  He is responsible for all this fun.  He just decided it was more important to move to a new house than to play with his newest rudder.  Nice guy, but his priorities seem a little out of line.

Mike
'84 CP-16 (sold) - '88 CP-19II (sold) - '88 Com-Pac 23/3 (sold)
http://s613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/greene2108/


"I'm just one bad decision away from a really good time."

http://wrinklesinoursails.blogspot.com

HideAway

I put the question to one of our rabid racers.  There is a Precision 23 berthed next to me and looking at it s rudder he suggested taking a piece of schedule 40 3/4 pipe split to snap on the leading edge of the existing rudder then tapering back to the trailing edge with epoxy and micro balloons.  Any thoughts?
SV HideAway Compac 23 Hull #2
Largo, Florida
http://www.youtube.com/SVHideAway
http://svhideaway.blogspot.com/

Red Planet

The "rabid racer" solution will give you a straight taper which won't be a foil and may create as much turbulence as the original metal slab. With a decent pattern and a lot of grinding, one could achieve a reasonably good foil using the PVC leading edge and epoxy/microballoon fairing, but it would entail a lot more work and added weight than the way Mike's going about it.

HideAway

OK I see what you mean.  There would be little or no wing effect.  We were looking at the Precision rudder which is flatter than the rudders shown in the photos.   Matt
SV HideAway Compac 23 Hull #2
Largo, Florida
http://www.youtube.com/SVHideAway
http://svhideaway.blogspot.com/

Glenn Basore

Skip,

you and I have a lot in common, Model "A's" , RC planes and sailing so far.

I don't like the "ARF" stuff either and relish a good RC kit from the old days like Carl Goldberg, Viking, Sterling etc..........

I have an old "Buzzard Bomb Shell" that I have had for some time, 1930 design.

Craig Weis

The "Buzzard Bomb Shell" I have fly on an inverted O S Max 40 four cycle flipping a 10" x 6 prop with a 8 oz fuel tank so she'll remain aloft for an hour with prudent use of the throttle.  More then enough power. Picked up the kit at the R/C show in Toledo, Ohio around 1982 ? Installed the Futaba and use three channels.
Also have a "Kloud King" 72" wing span, 11 " chord, three channel 3 and 3/4 lb. Build 'em light!! Don't need all that balsa I just keep sanding the weight away. And I think their are 13 others in the basement.

skip.

Glenn Basore

Skip,

Ive been out of the RC world for some time and it wasn't until the last few years that I venture back in to the field. When I retire in June of this year I plan on spending more time with the Rc stuff when I'm not sailing or the world of Amateur astronomer, I built a 12.5 f/5 scope last year and have been enjoying that as well.

Greene

Step 3:  Finished putting the thickened epoxy on the rudder to fair the edges and any major imperfections.  I ended up buying the West System 2 part epoxy.  (105 Resin, 206 Slow Hardener, 410 Filler)  The final shape seems to be pretty decent, so I am pretty excited about how it will affect the performance of the sailboat.  I put the fiberglass cloth on and applied the "wetting out" layer of epoxy.  After a couple of hours I can trim the rough edges off with a razor blade while it is still in the green stage of curing.  After 3 or 4 coats of epoxy and a little fairing work I can figure out how I want to paint it.  I still have a lot of white Pettit Vivid Antifouling bottom paint left over, so maybe I should just use that.


Epoxy Filler used to fair the rudder

'84 CP-16 (sold) - '88 CP-19II (sold) - '88 Com-Pac 23/3 (sold)
http://s613.photobucket.com/albums/tt211/greene2108/


"I'm just one bad decision away from a really good time."

http://wrinklesinoursails.blogspot.com

Bob23

Anti-fouling? Don't do it, Greene. A rudder that nice needs a tricked-out paint job. How about flames? Or American flag? Or barber pole stripes? Let your imagination run wild, man!
Bob23