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Perko Portlights

Started by Bob23, January 10, 2010, 09:08:18 PM

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Bob23

   My 1985 23/2 has Perko bronze portlights and I love 'em. I've resealed the gaskets of all 6 portlights but some of them still leak. The source is the seal between the glass and the hinged frame. There seems to be a giant bronze ring that holds the glass in. I've checked Perkos website and there is no mention of these lights so I assume they have been discontinued and thus most parts are not available anymore.
   I plan on resealing the glass in all 6 lights but before I forge ahead I figured I'd try to draw on the collective wisdom that is so prevalent here at the site. Anyone have any advice or have you undertaked such a daunting task?
Bob23, thanks in advance.

Craig Weis

#1
Perko bronze portlights? We are talking opening portholes right? And there is a gasket between the singing glass and frame or ring and the actual 'body' of the porthole going through the cabin's bulkhead. Right?

And your looking to reseal between the swinging frame and the bulkhead frame. Right?

I'd better look at the picture. Are these the standard Com-Pac round portholes from the factory. I don't think they are Perko's anymore. Not oval, or square port, are they? But the same ones found in the West Marine catalog? 4 inch Dia.
I'd cut a Neoprene gasket and glue it in with the glue toward the bulkhead frame. And the unglued side seeing the swinging glass and frame. Might put a little Vaseline on this swing side for a better seal when dogged down.

Like in model plane building where the wing fits the fusalage, 3M-5200 slow set the bulkhead side, use wax paper between the swing port and 3M-5200 and close and dog down the ports for a few days. Open the ports and trim away the 3M-5200 for that perfect fit. The 3M-5200 won't stick to the wax paper but will form to the bulkhead frame. Use the black 3M-5200.

Or am I way off base with how these portholes work?  I'm thinking about putting one facing forward on the slope of the cabin centered up under the mast for that 'rammed air' effect at speed. LOL.

skip.

Bob23

Thanks, Skipper Skip:
   I have already replaced  the gasket between the frame and the sash. I found the original Perko gasket at Fawcett in Annapolis when I was down there a few years ago at the sailboat show. (I'm a builder...I'll call the opening part of the window the sash.) These are all fine. But some of the sashes leak between the glass and the round opening frame (sash). Swinging frame does sound better. They are indeed Perko's. I guess they were standard issue in 1985.
   I've toyed with putting one on the forward bulkhead just as you are...gives it a nice catboat look. I'll keep you posted as to the progress of the project.
Thanks, Bob23
   

bmiller

#3
Bob,
I have nothing to offer but will be following this closely. Pooka has the same portlights, had to replace the gaskets also. We went to the San Juans right after they were replaced. During one downpour I found one leak. As it turned out I put the cuts on the bottom instead of the top in that one light. Even though I thought the joint was pretty well fit up, it leaked. Moved the joint to the top and no more leak.
Good luck, post photos.

P.S. I'm going out and take a look at mine. Might come up with something.

OK I wnet out and looked at Pooka's. If you pull the gasket out there are six screws that appear to hold the flange in place that keeps the glass in place.
Give that a try.

Salty19

Just a thinking out loud here. ...Bob it sounds like your leak is in between the sash/frame and the glass lens itself.  Is that correct?   

If so, why not carefully bed some clear silicone window chaulk around the area between the glass and sash?  I sealed up a window at home with this and you cannot see it once it dries, plus it somewhat oozes into the open areas.  You can remove excess gunk with acetone as I'm sure it will be easy to make a mistake.  I do not recall exactly what I used, but it was the 50 year clear all weather chaulk available at Home Depot/Lowes.   Worked on my window which leaked enough to damage the drywall behind it.

The question is will this apply to your portholes?

Also..I don't have my 19 closeby to reference, but is the glass removable?  If it is, perhaps you can find a 4" (or 3  7/8")  O Ring to seal both sides of the glass before placing it into the sash?  That should fix it for good for the foreseeable future provided it's not too thick and allows for a complete seal.
"Island Time" 1998 Com-pac 19XL # 603