dim. cockpit grate

[nies]

plan on building my own cockpit grate for my 1978 cp 16 ......need dim. from someone richer than me , the grate pictured by steve ullrich is what im trying to copy......width of long slats, two outside slats appear narrower, space between slats, thickness of wood,number and width of cross pieces.....any help would be appreciated...nies

[Craig Weis]

Make a cockpit sole pattern using a piece of pattern ply. When that's fitted perfect lay out your wood right on the plywood and figure out where each crossing piece needs to be coped out. Glue and dowel into place. [Or staple if this equipment to do this is availible. Ought to be a cross-linking polyvinyl acetate glue].

Curve the wood to match the deck mold's release curve in the fiberglass shape with a plane and sand to shape for that perfect 'custom' fit...that's how we do it at Palmer Johnson Yachts, a $44 million yacht beyond perfection.

Remember that the vertical height in the cockpit is not that high and a 'cockpit grate' will  up an inch or so...this space, how you sit on the settee may feel funny at first. Just thinking out loud.
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[Steve Ullrich]

Nies - Here you go...



Among other things, I've taught woodworking and cabinet making for 30 years.  If you need to glue up any teak be sure and buy Gorilla Glue and Acetone.  As you probably know, teak is a very oily wood.  When your joints are ready to glue, wipe both surfaces to be joined very aggressively with Acetone to remove the surface oil and open some pores. You will have about an hour to work with these surfaces. Follow the instructions on the Gorilla Glue bottle...

The slats under the surface boards on mine were glued and stapled in place at the factory.  This grate came from the factory when she was new.  The staples only hold the surfaces tight until the glue dries but they are really helpful in the assembly. Be sure they are less than 1" long! I'd use 3/4" max.

plan on building my own cockpit grate for my 1978 cp 16 ......need dim. from someone richer than me , the grate pictured by steve ullrich is what im trying to copy......width of long slats, two outside slats appear narrower, space between slats, thickness of wood,number and width of cross pieces.....any help would be appreciated...nies

[nies]

SPECIAL THANKS STEVE FOR AIDING ME TWICE TODAY!!!!!!!!!!!ALSO THANKS TO THE OTHERS WHO ANSWERED MY POST. STEVE ,THANKS AGAIN FOR THE TIME AND EFFORT IT TOOK TO MAKE IT POSSIBLE FOR ME TO CONSTRUCT A GRATE........PHIL NIES

[Steve Ullrich]

No problem Nies.  It didn't take a lot of time. I've been teaching kids how to use CAD software for twenty years.  Parallel lines and a couple of rounds isn't too challenging.  BTW: About the staples.  Again, they are only needed until the glue sets.  After that you can pull them if you like.  No rust issues then...

SPECIAL THANKS STEVE FOR AIDING ME TWICE TODAY!!!!!!!!!!!ALSO THANKS TO THE OTHERS WHO ANSWERED MY POST. STEVE ,THANKS AGAIN FOR THE TIME AND EFFORT IT TOOK TO MAKE IT POSSIBLE FOR ME TO CONSTRUCT A GRATE........PHIL NIES

[Craig Weis]

No more 'drafts' for me thank you very much. I ran into a sailor at Sister Bay harbor yesterday who sailed his dark blue Sun Cat over from Michigan and had replaced all the teak with this product. He did a fine job of it too.
skip.

Has any one ever used a wood substitute called PlasTEAK?
 
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[nies]

STEVE, JUST TO LET YOU KNOW IM GATHERING MY ITEMS NEEDED TO COMPLETE GRATE. A FRIEND WHO IS A "WOOD NUT" MADE ME THE PIECES OUT OF NATIVE AND SEASONED WHITE ASH SINCE TEAK IS HARD TO COME AT THE NORTH POLE . HE SUGGESTED GLUEING AND ATTACHING WITH 3/4" BRASS SCREWS. HAD TO ORDER THE SCREWS FROM THE HARDWARE STORE AND THEY HAVENT COME IN YET. ILL KEEP YOU UPDATED, ...THANKS AGAIN.........PHIL

[Steve Ullrich]

I Phil, you are quite welcome.  Good luck with the project.  Post some pictures when it is done...

STEVE, JUST TO LET YOU KNOW IM GATHERING MY ITEMS NEEDED TO COMPLETE GRATE. A FRIEND WHO IS A "WOOD NUT" MADE ME THE PIECES OUT OF NATIVE AND SEASONED WHITE ASH SINCE TEAK IS HARD TO COME AT THE NORTH POLE . HE SUGGESTED GLUEING AND ATTACHING WITH 3/4" BRASS SCREWS. HAD TO ORDER THE SCREWS FROM THE HARDWARE STORE AND THEY HAVENT COME IN YET. ILL KEEP YOU UPDATED, ...THANKS AGAIN.........PHIL

[nies]

STEVE, JUST PUT THE FOURTH AND LAST COAT OF VARNISH TODAY. LOOKS GREAT!!!!!!!!!! AS I STATED , AS SOON AS MY TWELVE YEAR GRANDDAUGHT COMES TO VISIT, I WILL HAVE HER HELP ME POST SOME PICTURES.......THANKS AGAIN FOF THE HELP..........PHIL

[nies]

dserrell, THE REASON FOR THE VARNISH WAS I WANTED THE NATURAL BEAUTY OF THE WOOD TO SHOW. WE HAVE A KITCHEN FLOOR OF WHITE ASH WITH A SEALER AND THREE COATS OF POLY, THAT HAS LASTED FOR OVER FIFTEEN YEARS WITH SAND,DOGS AND GRANDKIDS. THE MARKING THAT HAS OCCURED IS WHAT MY WIFE CALLS "PATINA" AND I CALL CHARACTER. MY OLD GRATE WAS STAINED AND JUST GOT DARKER WITH EVERY REFINISH, IF THIS TURNS OUT BAD IT WILL BE EASE TO FIX. I USED DANISH(NATURAL) OIL , RAGGED OFF AFTER FIFTEEN MINUTES AND LET THE WOOD SET FOR 72 HOURS, APPLIED FOUR COATS OF MARINE SPAR VARNISH, WITH A FULL DAY BETWEEN COATS AT 70 DEGREES.THE RUBBER STRIPS SOUNDS LIKE A GOOD IDEA...........THANKS FOR THE POST.........PHIL

[mrb]

dserell  Nice looking grate

nies  Good idea on the Danish oil,  I've used it on pine flooring and like the way it soaks in and then hardens, takes on a nice natural shine as long as no chemicals are used to clean it.