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What does XL mean

Started by brackish, June 15, 2009, 01:23:23 PM

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brackish

Please excuse my ignorance, I'm new to this board.  Currently researching trailerable sailboats to eventually purchase.  Some CP-19's have and XL designation.  What does that mean, how would they be different from others, and what was the first year that designation was used?

Thanks

Craig Weis

#1
The Com-Pac 19 XL [my hull # is 588 of the entire 19 family and is a 1996] has a fiberglass insert inside the cabin and these XL's can be identified easily from the dock by simply looking at the four 4" dia port holes as the XL's will 'stick out' further then the older non-XL's having a fine teak plywood surround in the cabin. The wood is about 1/2" thick and 'pulls' the port inboard that much, till almost flush with the cabin.

Don't know when that XL business started, nor when the hull colors, rigging, and bow sprit was added or changed for that matter.

Caution!!! This fiberglass insert is very close to the inside of the cabin's fiberglass. As close as touching to 3/16" and so when drilling a small hole for screwing in and hanging an auxiliary lamp or barometer...

[see my Frappr pictures with link below]...

A accidental hole can go clean through the entire cabin structure to the weather side, necessitating a repair to the fiberglass cabin.

What this fiberglass insert does is;
1~Gives a wee bit more interior room.
2~Brightens the interior as the insert is white, not a dark warm wood glow. I painted the inside of the sliding hatch and drop boards gloss white to match the insert...

[the drop boards I cut in half horizontial on a 45 degree so water won't drip in and allows great storage of the two halves and provides a lower or upper closeure to the hatch. With a boom tent this adds privacy but allows air to circulate around.]


3~Reduces manufacturing costs and labor costs.
4~Probably adds a couple of pounds to the boat's over all weight.
5~Is pleasing to the eye with it's fluted 'imitation planking' fore and aft design.
6~The insert makes it very tricky to add a bow sprit, stanchions, or bow pulpits as it covers the deck/hull seam...

[For stauntions I had to super glue the washer and nyloc nut to my finger and have someone topside turn the screw to get that started and then make a special goose-neck wrench to hold the nut when tightening down. Oh and a UHMW pad was placed under the stauntions with copious amounts of 3-M 5200 slow set. The factory plywood hard points were there fiberglassed in and I just drilled through these as well as using UHMW pads top side...]

7~Other then that no other changes to the rig, bow sprit, sail plan that I could ascertain.
skip
.

brackish

Thanks Skip, that tells me what to look for and a lot more.  Noticed the anchor roller in one of your pictures, stock or did you add?

My evaluation goes on with the same issues I've noticed on the Com Pac site as well as others.  Larger and more displacement with the benefits of more space, stability and relative speed, but more difficult to tow, set up, launch and retrieve or shorter, less displacement easier to handle, but more space constrained.  Seems to be the most prevalent longstanding internal struggle.

My other issue is newer, ready to go, or older needing a general refit.  My other hobby is woodworking and I've done a full refit including core rot repair and Cat Poly coating, so I'm predisposed to "bringing them back from neglect".

Small boats new for me.  My experience as an owner/charterer/delivery crew/race crew/general messing around boats has been with larger, deeper draft, stay in the water boats.  But the reality is retired, with the kids grown, SWMBO having lost interest, and with a developing interest in single handed gunkholing, I'm thinking trailerable.

From Lurking this site, seems to be a tremendous amount of knowledge.  That would be helpful

Craig Weis

Roller is stock factory. Early rollers were hard non-indented rollers so no real center playout. I suppose these would allow the road to wonder off the roller and pinch in the side frames supporting the roller. I like it. It's brass. Thanx for taking a look~see.
skip.

Salty19

After reviewing some pictures of CP19 I/II/III's and seeing a few in person, I believe the XL's also have a different location of the switch/fuse panel.  Skip's and mine are the same.  On the XL's, they are located to port of the companionway (out of the way). On non-XL's, this panel is located just above the companionway steps, making it easy to toggle switches but also vulnerable to breakage.  Then again they may have changed this in the V.3 at some point--not sure.

Another item is the bow pulpit is a little different shape.  Not much and not a big deal-both designs are functional and attractive. Probably just a supplier change.

The XL's were supposed to have all factory options from the prior versions (ie lifelines, stanchions, winches, genoa tracks, aft led halyards, reefing block boom, etc.)  But that is not the case in all XL's such as skips that didn't have stanchions, lifelines or the stern pulpit.  So probably a case of Hutchins customizing for new owners.
And they did not come with furlers. And the optional SS engine mount is not seen on all XL's so perhaps the "all factory options" comment is not as accurate as we knew.

There are also no aluminum parts on the XL's except spars. All pulpits/stanchions are stainless.

Another change, and this may not be XL related, is the mast post.  Earlier versions are rounded, later versions are squared off.  No biggie, and not sure when this changed.

Standard hull and deck colors changed as some point from tan to white.  My '98 XL has a bone white deck/cockpit and tan antiskid on deck.  I like both colors--the tan somewhat fits the traditional look better.  Gerry told me he made a few green and blue XL's, but I've never seen them mentioned on this forum.  They must be out there somewhere.
"Island Time" 1998 Com-pac 19XL # 603