Ever wonder what's really inside the CP 16?

[multimedia_smith]

I know... this "just messing about with boats" can be quite addicting... I am self employed, so the "discipline problem" of doing real media production has come up... since both my studio and the boat are both downstairs off the garage area.  
It's kinda like... mentally you're out there sailing when you are working on the boat.  ENJOY!  It's really satisfying... oddly... you may feel a loss when you complete it... but there will always be "little tweaks" and project lists.  That's somehow reassuring in a way.
Dale

[Rick Evans]

You're right Dale.  Working on boats can get addicting.  Somebody coined some phrase once to the effect that "nothing's better than messing around on boats."  

   I want to thank everybody for all their help in my restoration project.  Believe it or not, I'm about 75% done with the restoration.  I'll post some updated pictures soon.  The entire cabin has been rebuilt from bare hull outwards.  I poured more cement in last night in the bow to form a flat surface to hold a wheelchair battery.  Using a plywood template which I sunk into the concrete, I created an indentation to hold the battery.  Also some upside down U bolts were sunk to either side of the indentation which will hold a bungee to further secure the battery.  

   I also put the final coat of Cetol and Interlux non skid additive on a plywood piece of birch which I have cut to fit the cabin sole.  A ribbed outdoor carpeting has been glued in place along with stainless steel staples to give a custom fit to the forepeak and both berths.  All wiring was first run through conduit under the berths and secured in place with expanding foam (which you never, ever want to get on your skin, trust me).  I'm still waiting for the sails to arrive but the CDI furler is already in.  The bottom has been sanded clean and the old knotmeter paddle wheel through hull hole has been patched with three sheets of biaxial fiberglass cloth and copious amounts of epoxy.  I rebuilt the motor mount and the rudder stock has been stripped clean and given several coats of a linear polyurethane paint.  The wood bright work has been stripped and sanded smooth and is now on it's second coat of Cetol.  After all this work, I sure hope she sails.

[bro t]

Hi Rick,
the quote you refer to is from The Wind in the Willows by Kenneth Grahame, in which Mole reveals to Ratty that he's never been in a boat before!  "What?" cried Ratty.  "Believe me, there is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much worth doing, as simply messing about in boats."     A neat little company makes t's, sweats, and tote bags to this effect, I bought the tote years ago at the Wooden Boat Show, it serves me well for water, snacks and towels, and lies in the hall ready to sail at a moments notice from June thru October.  Their website is //www.messingabout.com and the magazine is the whole phrase  messingaboutinboats.com', but that's articles, news, cool smallboat stuff, etc.  We Compac'ers may have transgressed the wood vs. fiberglass line, but fun vs. maintenance IS an issue for some of us, too.  I respect those who build wooden boats, I've done a small rowboat myself, but it takes a hunk of time, and I'm also on too steep a place in the learning curve to build something my family of 6 can all (safely) squeeze onto.  Take care, I enjoyed your postings and pics.  You'll LOVE your new cp16!

[Yairi1]

Rick, (or anyone with the knowledge)

I just purchased (yesterday) a 1989 16/3 and am fortunate that my girl is presently serciceable and a delight to sail.  Though, I did find that the plywood underlying the side berths on my boat was also rotted.  The water appears to have found it's way in via a leaky companionway, as new puddles appeared there after washing her.  What has been your experience with repairing/replacing these fixtures?  (Please keep in mind that I never took "shop" in high school, so this is OJT)  Will any marine grade plywood work here?  Any special way of fixing it to the bulkhead, etc?  Other recommendations?

Thanks for your help!  

VR,
Jonathan Clarke

[Gil Weiss]

Hi Jonathan,

Read your post and I have some potential information for you re leaks, etc. Two and a half years ago I bought a pristine looking 1990 CP16/3. To make a long story short, it had 3 sources of water getting into the cabin - leaking scuppers, rub rail leaks and leaking round hatches on the seats at the stern.

It took me a bit to figure where the water was coming in. I found the bilge area at the stern full of water afterr sailing or a heavy rain. (I would reach in through the inspection hatches on the seats)

I wound upp removing the rub rail and resealing the hull deck joint, replacing the inspection hatches and bedding the mounting plates real good and sealing the scuppers both inside and outside. The scuppers were the worst leak and the hatches second.

There is much info on all this on the Yahoo site. It is all evidentally a common thing due to aging, even in fairly young CP16's like ours.

My wife and I love the boat . . . .these craft are comfortable and stable and great sailing bots!

[Rick Evans]

Jonathan,

   If water came in just by washing your boat, it shouldn't be that hard to pin it down.  If I were you, I'd dry it thoroughly and then seal it up with you in the cabin.  Then, have your wife or kids blast away with the hose at every angle they can think of while you watch for water.  If it's not obvious, one old trick is to apply a thin layer of talcum powder over the inside of the boat.  When you wash it from the outside, the talcum powder should show the source of the leak. Yes, I know.  It's a little messy but it makes the boat smell nice and is very easily vacuumed.  

If it is the companionway door, you can order a new one from ComPac.  They aren't terribly expensive and are cut to fit perfectly.  I can do wood work well enough but I found it easier just to buy it.  They sell solid teak and a teak laminate which is less expensive and just as good.  Before you put on a few coats of Cetol or Armada, just use acetone on a rag to clean the finish of teak's naturally oily surface.  The companionway is pretty good a keeping water out but, unlike a larger sea going craft, isn't completely water tight.  

You'll want to do something about those rotting plywood berths.  Mine were totally shot and I had to remove them completely and replace them with half inch marine grade plywood which I cut to fit.  You may be able to get away with drying them well and then mixing up an epoxy resin to paint them with.  You can also saturate some fiberglass cloth and press it into your epoxy paint job and paint over the cloth to provide a super stiff and solid base.  You might also consider drilling a few holes into the plywood and then squirting into the cavity some of that expanding foam you can buy at Home Depot.  Just don't over do it.

[multimedia_smith]

Hi,
I have a 1988 16-3 and have finally stopped a minor but aggravating leak onto the port cabin berth.  At first I thought it was coming from the chain plate/rub rail notch.  After taking it apart and sealing it... I still had a tiny streak of wet on the port side but only after sailing in really rough conditions.  I did what Gil suggested and stood inside the cabin while spraying the side and voila! a small trickle of water was coming in around the forward port hole.  I had taken them off to paint them black and thought I had gooped them enough when replacing them.  The area is now dry when sailing AND washing it down.  So go inside and keep a look out for leaks.
The previous owner had already done the scupper area and my bilge area stays totally dry.
You are sure to have years of enjoyment from this great little boat.
Dale

[crbakdesign]

I too have been busy ripping up dry rot, painting and cutting in new woodwork in the cabin.  The previous owner had floored planks across both berths.  I've cut out the midsection and gained 4.5 inches of headroom!     In a 16's cabin, that's  a lot of space.  My plan is to use a cockpit footwell cover for sleeping in the cockpit on summer nights, and when necessary, moving the same cover below between the berths to give us a wider sleeping area. I plan to mastic and lay linolium between the berths.  I also made cockpit cushions that can also double as mattresses below.  

I'm about done with the rudder foil ( 18 ga aluminum over 5/8th in nylon ribs. I routed out a 1/4 in. slot in each rib and slid the up the rudder blade.

I was delighted to learn the purpose of the pvc plug and pipe under the forespeak.  I knew it was too small for a fishing line and a silly design for a drain. Everytime I look here I learn something new.  Great community for obsessed sailors.

Once my son shows up with a digital camera, I'll post some shots.

By the way, outside of the lazareth hatch, what inspection hatches does a 16/3 have that we don't?

[Craig]

The 16/3 does not have a lazarrette.  It was replaced by a teak seat with fuel tank storage underneath.  Two round hatches were added on each seat.  For those who like an outboard with external fuel it allows for greater range.  I like the easy access to storage through the lazarrette.

Craig

[Rick Evans]

Fellas, I just put the sliding hatch and find that it hits the companionway drop door.  There isn't enough room to lift the hatch up and over the door.  I ordered the door from Com Pac and it looks to be a good fit but the fact remains that when the hatch is slid forward, it hits the door.  I can't lift the hatch upwards to go up and over the door because the wood trim pieces on either side of the hatch don't allow for much, if any, vertical movement.  Any suggestions?  Cut the hatch down.  Put washers under the wood trim pieces to raise their height so the hatch can be lifted up a half inch or so?  Help!

Rick

[CaptK]

Hey Rick -

I have to lift Epiphany's hatch a bit to sneak it over the boards. I think cutting your new ones down just a smidgin would be easiest. I wonder if Hutchins ships them just a bit large on purpose, so that noone will have them a bit too small? Hmmm, the mysteries of the Universe...

[bro t]

Hi Rick, I would be much more inclined to leave the top alone if it had a nice finished edge, and take a very slight amount off the side(s).  Remember that with the trapezoid shape you might only have to shave off 1/16 inch from the edge to get 1/4 inch or more drop in height.  Less is more here, even a sander might take off enough to do the job, and then you haven't messed with a factory cut.  But, if they left a ratty edge, I s'pose that might be the cut to take.  Good fittin'!

[multimedia_smith]

You should be able to raise the horizontal sliding hatch a bit then it drops down over the top edge of the vertical companionway hatchboard.  At least that's how mine is.  It kind of keeps the top sliding hatch in place.
Dale :?

[Yairi1]

What started as an innocent, "let's fix the cabin up," has turned into a complete cabin overhaul for me and my new CP16.  

Turns out that the brittle foam flotation under the berths acts as a wick and holds any moisture present against the fiberglass hull and wood below decks.  Not good.  I've ripped all of it out down to the hull to start fesh with the berths.  Some of the supporting wood was wet (but not rotten) and I intend to salvage it with some Minwax wood saver.  

After a thorough drying, I plan to fiberglass any remaining wood bulkheads into proper bilges, complete with a water resistant bilge paint.  Adds weight, yes, but prevents future water problems (and adds hull stiffness).  A water resistant replacement for the flotation is yet to be determined.   Any suggestions?

Finally, new plywood berths are in order (high quality exterior grade plywood), fiberglassed to the bulkheads and painted with alkyd enamel.

I have not dismantled the forpeak structures, but they seem dry enough, as far as I can feel.  Any comments or suggestions?  I hope not to mess with this part unless somenone can convince me I REALLY need to.

Thanks fot the forum and comments/suggestions.

-Jonathan Clarke
Beaufort, SC

[Craig]

Jonathan,

The front of the older 16s is pretty easy to inspect.  There is an inspection part that allows you to feel the bulkheads.  If it's all solid that you can feel I wouldn't mess with.

Keep your project documented with pictures and post them for us to see.

Craig