Installing New C-Cleats

[beames]

I would like to install new bullseye swivel c-cleats on top of the gunwale in the cockpit for a new 155 jib however there is no way to access from the bottom for washers, nuts or backing plates. The material in the way may be foam or fiberglass...not sure? I believe CP16's had bullseye cleats mounted on the gunwale originally but mine have been removed and replaced with a track on the cabin top. I don't believe the cabin top track will work with the 155? Does anyone know how the original bullseye cleats were installed or maybe another method for cleating sheet lines when using a 155 jib?

Thanks,
Brooke

[Rick Klages]

I believe the gunwale cockpit track is still available from Com-Pac.  It's the most versatile arraignment (jib, jenny, spinnaker and Bimini).  And If I'm not mistaken it goes in blind.  Just drill, fill with bedding and screw with self tapping. One of those super 2 part sand, drill and paint putties would be great for this.

ick

[beames]

That's interesting. I have never heard of tracks or deck hardware being installed without at least washers and nuts. I'll check with Com-Pac and if that's all there is to it, it will be a breeze.

Thanks,
Brooke

[Sam in VA]

My '85 16 has the genoa track, and I have gelcoat crazing around each of the screws.  I asked Compac about installation, and they said they are just screwed in... the glass is thicker there. 

I'm replacing berths and doing some other interior work, and I plan to remove the foam beneath the coaming, replace the screws with nuts, bolts and washers (and perhaps a plywood backer), and then replace the foam.

[Salty19]

There is room there to use washers/nuts.  If you're fairly thin, you should be able to slide down the cabin area to access them.

My 16 has teak cockpit rails with 4 threaded rods holding it in place on each side, mounted to the gunwale. They are backed by washers and nuts underneath.   I did not install them (were on the boat when purchased), but can clearly see the threaded rod protrude when you look from underneath.  In fact, I'll probably break out the cut off wheel to trim them up once I get the boat out of winter storage.

Just tossing this out there.  Would be happy to provide pics at a later date (say in a month).

[Carol]

Over the winter I ordered the 5ft. tracks and swivel cleats from APS.  Working from the middle, they are screwed in and secured with 3M 5200.  There is enough give in the tracks to match the curve of the coaming (right term?).  I left the original cleats in place since you can never have enough cleats :-)

pic at

http://com-pacowners.com/gallery2/displayimage.php?album=random&cat=12453&pos=-1405

just finishing up a lot of fixing and upgrades and posting images as I get them off my camera.

[Salty19]

Allow me to retract my statement.  There is indeed not direct access immediately under the gunwale.  My cabin rails are mounted with threaded rod which appear to extend THROUGH the inaccessible "dead" area and into the cabin berth where it's fastened.   I did not visualize this until studying it closely, so I apologize for the misinfo.    If you need pics, let me know!

[B.Hart]

   I have the same set up as carol, and left the original fairleads also.   BILL

[mrb]

My boat has cam cleats for the Genoa so today I crawled into the berth area to see how they were fastend.  Not I but some previous owner had cut through the foam under the coaming and pulled out a 6in. block giving access to underside of fiberglass.  They then through bolted cleats with a backing plate made of plywood.  Very nice professional looking job.

There is a cleat maybe 8in aft that does not have a cut out so guess it is probably screwed in as most owners have reported.

I like the cut out and backing but would hesitate on taking too much of the foam out as it appears to be there for stiffening purpose.

Melvin

[Paul]

Actually, My foam on the starboard side fell out a while back.  I needed to help it a bit at the forward end, but otherwise it was just hanging there like a loose tooth.  Likewise, my track is not through bolted.  I have not noticed a lack of stiffness compared to the port side.  That section is thick and curvy, so I speculated the shape has a more to do with the stiffness.

$0.02

edited 6/10/08

[B.Hart]

My foam fell out also, I just coated it with silicone and put it back in place, years later its still there.   BILL

[mrb]

Paul


When thinking about it I think you are right concerning shape of coaming area giving it stiffness.

In fiberglas boat building a lot of builders use some pretty shoddy wood covered with several layers of glass for engine logs and floors relying on shape not wood for strength.  Pretty scary when you have a ford Lehman sitting on a shell when the wood dry rots away.

From what I've seen of C-P coaming they are much better than some supposable top notch motor vessels.

Good sailing
Melvin

[Paul]

Yes, that nice coming is one of the (many) reasons we looked into the CP-16.  We sailed in the mid-west on some cool days way back when and stayed dry.  Much better experience than other (wetter) sailing experiences. 

[don l]

My 81 Com-pac 16 has Jib tracks when I bought it, my son said it was for the genoa 155. How is this used and can it be used with the small jib?
     
   


                 

[Paul]

Don:

Are the jib tracks on the coming or on the cabin top?  If on the cabin top, then you are likely going to be successful with a jib only.  If on the coming, then you can use either sail successfully.  This is because of the angle of the jib sheets.  You would likely need the Genoa's jib sheets placed farther aft (on the track placed on the coming) for good sail shape.  Working jib's sheets usually shape up better when the cleat is secured further forward.

Hope this helps.