New foiled rudder won't stay down!

[PhotoEd]

Hey gang!
I installed my new Idasailor Rudder (BEAUTIFUL) and I can't make the "lock" tight enough to keep the rudder down.

When removing the single bolt that held the old rudder on, I was sure to note that there were no shims, washers, etc. inside the base. 

While there is definitely an advantage to leaving it loose enough to kick-up if I hit something (no...never gonna happen, right?), I'm thinking there is a washer missing that would allow me to tighten it up nicely.

Clear as mud?

[Rick Klages]

I have a small washer between the "wing nut" and the "rudder mount".  No trouble making it tight enough!  Last outing it took a bit of elbow grease to loosen it.

ick

[B.Hart]

  There was a post about this a week or so ago, and I believe they installed a shear pin to stop the rudder from lifting. I still need to get me a foil rudder, ma by after the holidays.   BILL

[jkat]

     I had the same problem this last summer.  The shear pin is a good fix.  I found a method that might be a little more complicated, but works well for me.
    I ended up installing a line that I can tighten in order to keep that sucker down.  It keeps the rudder down, lets it kick up when necessary, and it can be let free easily when I want to pull the rudder up in shallow water.  
    I drilled a hole through the foremost top part of the rudder (the upper corner closest to the transom, I guess), and looped a three foot line through it.  I then bought a small eyelet and screwed it to the aluminum part of the rudder assembly (be careful to predrill holes in the aluminum that are slightly smaller than the screws).  To make sure I apply the force upward on the front corner of the rudder I tried to keep the eyelet as close to directly above the attachment point for the line as possible.  Finally, I screwed a camcleat to the rudder assembly above the eyelet in an easy to reach position .  That way, when the rudder is starting to float up, or I leave shore and enter deep enough water, I yank on the line, and like those lame rotisserie infomercials, I set it and forget it.  
    I bought the camcleat, eyelet, and stainless screws at a local boating supply store for $10, and the line is part of 50' of $1.99 nylon all-purpose line I found at ACO.  If I hit something at a good clip and the line snaps, I'm out about $.20.  So far so good.
    The rudder does make a huge difference in sailing.  I don't have a picture to attach.  Hope the written description helps.

-Jeff

[queens cove sailor]

I would like to add, primariluy ffor the benefit of those planning to buy an IDA rudder in the future, that they offer a flip-up model, which can be rotated, in degrees, to an end position where it is completely out of the water.  When down it has a gas filled shock absorber strut to allow it tp pass over obstructions.  It costs more but was the obvious choice for me where my boat is in the water 12 months a year.  Even when raised, the stock aluminum plate rudder still has a portion in the water and this portion fouls quickly in Florida waters, hence my choice for the flip up model.

A variation on the prior suggestion to hold down a rudder is to use shockcord as the tie-down.  Hit an obstruction and the cord will stretch and give you a warning to come about.

Charlie

[PhotoEd]

Good stuff here...thanks gang!

[fansbro]

Glad to hear that I am not the only one with lock down problems.  I had it drilled last summer and use the shear pins from ida, works great!!

Fran

[PhotoEd]

Can anyone shoot a picture of exactly where this shear pin goes?