News:

Howdy, Com-Pac'ers!
Hope you'll find the Forum to be both a good resource and
a place to make sailing friends.
Jump on in and have fun, folks! :)
- CaptK, Crewdog Barque, and your friendly CPYOA Moderators

Main Menu

Removing 23 deck

Started by dbunny23, November 08, 2007, 01:05:06 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

dbunny23

Has anyone successfully removed the deck from a 23?  I have to complete extensive repairs to interior of mine and was wondering it this was an option.  I found a website where the owner had done so with a Compac 16, and considering differences in weight, etc., was wondering how feasible.

Would love to hear any comments.

Thanks,

George

edbuchanan

For some reason Com-Pac thinks it is a bad idea to remove the deck.  I believe it was stated somewhere in the C16 pages of this site.  It was suggested that repairs be made to the hull-deck joint by removing only the bad spots, and filling with 3M-5200.  It might be difficult to get as strong a joint as the original, clean factory installation.  It might do more harm than good.

I understand why you would want to work unhindered by a small cabin, as I myself have spent many (many!) hours in odd awkward positions making modifications and repairs.  The good news is this: removing various parts have been easy after some trial and error.

Ernie (Molly 23/II, 1984)

bob lamb

Don't knowabout raising the entire deck, but I did raise the cabin roof about 2' w/o any adverse effect on the little ship.


Paul

Seems like I remember reading about that 16.  Did he photo the work under a tent?  Did he ever get the deck back on?!  Based on his experience with a 16 and having very limited experince with cured 5200, I'd suggest not removing the deck.

Of course, if you are successful at removing it AND replacing it successfully, please, by all means, post photos and comment on the project. ;)

dbunny23

Paul,

I think that was the one.  Considering, replies so far, I'll most likely cram my 6'3" down below to do the work!!

tooboat

Be oreoared for problems. I had to remove my rub rails to repair leaks. What I found was a joint held together with POP RIVETS ugh! All of these would have to be removed AND rplaced using the same holes. Any deteriation of the hole during removal will cause miss alighnment and likely unwanted stress.
It is a bad design which you can not change.
Ron Blais
rbla123@aol.com

Paul

I understand when one first looks at the hull deck joint, the initial reaction is one of wonder at best.  In my research on the topic in several boat maintenance sites, I have found, consistently, the 5200 is the primary bond in this type of joint followed by a secondary bond of either rivets or through bolts.  My CP-16 has the through bolt version.

Regarding design:  these boats are designed for sailing on lakes and bays, not blue water cruising.  Therefore, the hull deck joint is an appropriate design for the type of use the boat are likely to get.  Comparing CP's to true blue water cruisers with a different hull deck joint design, one can see the obvious differences and respect them for how the boat is meant to be used.

Having said that, I feel the same frustration anyone else does when it's time to patch a small leak in the joint.  It's a pill, for sure.  But, it is fixable.

As for the misaligned holes, it would be unexpected the holes are way out of alignment.  A possible solution:  over bore the holes slightly and use the next size rivet or bolt, after the 5200 patches have been applied.

dbunny23

I did remove rub rail...badly in need of replacement and noticed the rivets.  The joint does leak and I am going to re-seal it with 5200.  Any reason i can't replace rivets with appropriate sized bolts and nuts?

Thanks, and Happy New Year!!

Paul

In order to maximize strength and clearance of the bolt, Com-Pac installed oval head phillips machine screws (counter sunk) with a washer and thin nut on my 16.  If you want to keep it simple, just replace the rivets with rivets.  Otherwise, counter sinking the holes is in your future.

Good luck getting the rub rail back on, especially in winter.  Heat is your friend when wrestling it back in place.

dbunny23

Paul,

Thanks for the hardware info.  Love the amount of knowledge available on this list!

had already read about the rubrail  warm/cold thing, so will be waiting until spring to replace it.  Warm weather not too far away here in Panama City!  Plenty of other work for me to do on the boat, anyway!

George