Easy haul out

[Ralph Erickson]

Gil Weiss (owner of CP19 "Suo Gan") and I hauled out my CP19 today, and we were pleasantly surprised at how relatively easy it was.  We both were apprehensive, as this was the first CP19 haul out for both of us, with both of us moving from a CP16 to a CP19 this year.  First off, she positioned herself on the trailer the first try (it usually took a couple or three tries with the 16) which was a nice way to start things off.  The next big worry was taking down the mast.  That too went easier than we thought it would.  Gil held the lines off the bow (we tied a line to the end of the roller furler, plus tied the main haylard to the mast for added security) and I stood in the cabin on a step stool (Gil's great idea, to get close to the mast without standing so low in the cabin).  Although the mast was much heavier than the 16's, it was do-able.  I don't think I could have done it safely alone, though.  Maybe in my younger years, but not anymore.  Another good idea of Gil's was to remove the jib from the roller furler before taking the mast down.   This was my first experience with taking down a roller furling jib, so I would have just left it.  Made things much easier by taking it off.  So, all in all, not much different than hauling out a CP16, I'm pleased to say!!!!!

Ralph 

[Gil Weiss]

Captain Ralph has done a great job this year with his CP19 Patricia Lee.  He did a great job restoring her bottom and getting her ready for the past season.  I know from having sailed with him a several times. Between my new ownership of a CP 19 and the fact neither of us never hauled one out for the season we both had some anxiety over how it would go.

Well, like Captain Ralph said, there were no surprises and all went smoothly. Although literally twice the volume and weight of a CP16 it was a similar experience. The mast was heavier, but that was the major difference. This made us both feel very good and we are looking forward to next season with great anticipation. I wanted to post some pics here of the Patricia Lee after haul out but encountered down loading issues similar to what I get when I try to download a new avatar.

We both use Aquagard bottom paint and the results after five months in the water are unreal. Literally nothing to clean. This paint is water soluable and easy to apply.

We are both going to upgrade to Ida Sailor foiled rudders and probably will use Poly Glo too on our boats.

Lots of great sailing to look forward too . . . Gil

[DanN]

So, after a season of sailing, how do you compare the two boats (the 16 and the 19)?    Aside from more room, are there any other virtues you found in trading up?     Were you able to go out on windier or choppier days?   

[Gil Weiss]

I sailed my CP 16 all summer and bought the 19 in late September. I did sail on Ralph's 19 several times and sailed my new boat down at the Jersey shore in some brisk conditions.

Let me say that my wife and have loved every minute that we sailed our 16 the past five seasons. However,  the more we got acquainted with Ralph's CP 19 the worse our case of "3 foot itus" became.

In my opinion both boats sail very well and are quite seaworthy. The 19 is literally twice the volume of a 16 and almost twice the weight. The size becomes obvious when you see a 19 parked next to a 16 like we did on Sunday during haulout. The 19 has a champaign glass shaped hull versus the wine glass shape of the 16 making it even more stable that the 16. The 19 is a robust boat that can take a lot of wind and sea for its size. It is also more comfortable inside and out  -especially inside. There is more storage, wider bunks and more interior height making sleeping on it a real possibility.

My concern about moving up was dealing with the larger and heavier boat and trailer, but I now believe this won't be an issue. There is more to clean and wax too. We made the final decision based on the fact that we seem to take more people with us as time goes on so the extra space to stretch out will be good.

My 2 cents, Gil

[Rick Klages]

I can get the 16 on the trailer in one try everytime! 

ick

[Ralph Erickson]

DanN,  I would have to say that, although I loved my 16, I love my 19 more.  She sails and feels like a much larger boat than she is, in my opinion.  You notice the difference between a 16 and a 19 from the moment you step on board.  With my 16, I had to hang on and balance myself quite a bit as she tipped quite a bit.  With the 19, she hardly shudders when I step aboard.  I haven't noticed any difference in pointing or speed yet between the two, but my 19 experiences weather helm when my 16 didn't.  I believe that may be because I had a foiled rudder on the 16, and not on the 19 (which I plan to remedy in the spring).  With the 19, the sails are larger, of course, so I have to actually use the winches in stiff winds.  The 16, of course, didn't have winches.  I like winches - the sound they make helps you to feel like a real sailor!  But the main reason I moved up is so that I can sail bigger waters.  I want to sail the Chesapeake, the Jersey shore and (dream, dream, dream) the Florida Keys, and although the 16 will handle these waters, I felt I'd feel more comfortable in a larger boat.  Additionally, my wife was a bit timid sailing in the 16, and asked that we move up.  So, of course, I had to satisfy the wife!!!!  As Gil mentioned, if you take people out, the 19 has both more cockpit space (wider, not longer) and certainly more, much more, cabin space.  I've slept on both boats, and was much more comfortable on the 19.  Didn't feel cramped.  One thing you seriously have to evaluate, and in my opinion, is a big difference, is whether or not you are able to raise and lower the mast solo on a 19.  I was fully able to do it solo on the  16, but I don't believe I'd be able to do it safely on the 19.  Perhaps in my younger years, but not anymore.  Those, in my opinion, are the major differences.

Ralph

[JLaman]

Ralph and Gil,

Glad to hear you had no trouble hauling out your CP19 this fall!  With careful planning, which you obviously did, it can go very smoothly.  I trailer my 19 exclusively, so every time I go out, I put up and down -- always by myself.  With a few accessories, I have gotten the entire process, from turning of the tow vehicle to shoving off down to 25 minutes.  This past summer was my first year owning the boat and in about 25 times out, no mishaps.  Basically I have a little wooden saddle on the bow pulpit and a wooden crutch that attaches to the stern.  This allows me to stand on the deck and either raise or lower the mast myself.  I'm not a big guy either, so it doesn't take a lot of strength, just a little planning and doing it in steps.  Some trailer-sailors have very clever setups that take advantage of their winches, but I found that isn't really necessary with this boat. Anyway, good luck sailing!

Jeff

[Ralph Erickson]

Jeff, your setup sounds great.  Would you, by chance, have any pictures of the wooden sadle and the crutch you use?  Thanks!

Ralph

[JLaman]

Ralph,

Unfortunately, I don't have any photos.  Now I feel like a dummy for not taking the time.  I will certainly take some this spring, but that will be a while.  And my guess is you may be wanting to use winter months to build something in time for good weather?  I fashioned my wood "crutch" after looking at commercially available metal devices.  The commercial crutch telescopes (nice feature) and fastens to the rudder hardware, requiring removal of the rudder.  If you do a google search, you will probably find it.  I wasn't keen on removing the rudder every time -- mine is bolted on.  And I'm cheap!  I'll describe what I have as best I can in the hope that it will help you out.  If not, I can make a drawing and pass it on to you.

The crutch is made entirely from (2) pieces of 1"x3" clear Doug Fir (stong, cheap, easy to find).  The crutch has a 2.5" x 6" wood foot at the base that sits on the stern with wood blocks that keep the foot in place.  At the stern rail, there is another wood block as the crutch passes the rail on the outboard side.  I pass a "U" shaped 1/8"x1" aluminum bar around the rail and through the block, then secure it with a pin.  This effectively holds the crutch place for up and down.  The crutch extends about 6'- 6" above the stern -- as high as I can reach the mast onto the crutch from the cockpit seats.  The two vertical 1x3s that form the crutch shape are oriented with the 3" dimension parallel to the fore-aft line.  This way I was able to spread them as they rise above the stern, allowing about a 6" spread at the top from 3/4" at the bottom foot. It really does look like a crutch used when you twist an ankle.  About 4" down from the very top of the 1x3s I ran a 1/2" dia x 8" hex bolt through both 1x3s.  A piece of 6" long 3/4" dia pvc water pipe covers the bolt and acts as a roller for the mast as you move it forward to raise and back to lower. 

I have found that it is best to also secure the crutch with a line running for the port side of the stern rail, up to an eye bolt on the crutch about 2 ft above the rail (and "U" bolt fastener) then back down to the starboard side -- keeps everything steady laterally.  Sometimes I get lazy, or in a hurry and forgo this line, but once I regretted it as the crutch started to slide along the rail.  I can see that I am proving the maxim that a picture is worth a 1000 words......

The saddle is really a very simple wood piece made from 2x6 material.  One piece of 2x6 sits flat across the pulpit and the other is screwed to it with the 6" dimension vertical.  I cut out the shape of the mast in the vertical 2x6 so it rides nicely in the "saddle".  Nothing fancy.  I also devised a wooden support that sits on the stern rail to support the mast while trailering - again, nothing fancy but it gets the job done and speeds up the in and out process.

Sorry for the lack of photos -- hope this helps!

Jeff

[Gil Weiss]

Hi Jeff,

You are full of great ideas. I would really like to see photos of your mast raising set up.

I got the required hardware to run my main halyard back to the cockpit based on your photo. I bought a stand up block, a cheek block and a cleat. Should work fine!

All I need to know now is the thickness of the cabin roof so I can buy bolts. My boat is covered up for the winter so I can't take a look very easily . . .

Regards, Gil

[JLaman]

Gil,

Glad you got the hardware you need to run lines aft.  When you get it all assembled, I will be anxious to hear how it went.  Can't help you on the deck thickness -- sorry!  I did have a look at a photo I have of the cabin that jogged my memory of the bolting used for this hardware.  Everything has a normal washer and is double nutted.  The outer nut is an acorn nut -- saves a scraped head!  Will you run the lines to port or starboard?  One of the members commented that they sometimes use the winch for the halyard.  I never did that -- never really thought about it.  But I plan to give it a try and I am sure that's why the lines are run to port.

Most if my ideas aren't original, just a modification of other things I have seen.  I got the boat in December '06 and it sat in my driveway all winter, so I had plenty of time to contemplate all the issues of in and out and sailing single handed.  My next addition is cam cleats for the jib/genoa sheets.  Getting to the standard cleats on the leeward side while single handing has caused a few tense moments.

Jeff

[Gil Weiss]

Jeff,

I am just running my main halyard back to the cockpit on the starboard side. I typically sit on the port side to use the motor and when we get out from the marina my wife, who sits on the starboard side, raises the sail. Our jib is roller furled with the line already back in the cockpit.

Does your main halyard block use a backing plate of any type to distribute the upward load on the cabin roof?

Regards, Gil

[JLaman]

Gil,

I have one so-so picture here at home that shows me the interior of the cabin roof, and a vague memory...  Since the rigging was done by the previous owner I can't give you the best detail.  Anyway, from the picture I have it appears that there is a 3.5" dia. piece of teak about 0.5" thick that serves as a backing plate.  The teak probably looks nicer than a piece of stainless, or aluminum.  I don't know if you could find some stainless fender washers?  That's probably what I would have done had I been faced with the job.  Did you discover the cabin roof thickness?

Let us know how the job works out!

Jeff