Before and After Pictures

[Killjoy]

My boat was in great shape when I bought her, but I wanted a blue hull. I used Armorpoxy paint after scraping the bottom paint off and sanding the gel coat. Even though the stuff is "self-levelling when applied with a brush" it's not a nice flat finish. Live and learn I guess, but that's why I chose an older boat and paid cash so I could experiment a little. I sanded the first coat, re-painted then put a couple coats of wax on her. Maybe next year I sand it all off and try again (or the year after...).

before

http://www.com-pacowners.com/gallery2/albums/userpics/13424/normal_Little_Blue_Before.JPG


After-

http://www.com-pacowners.com/gallery2/albums/userpics/13424/normal_Little_Blue_1.JPG

[Paul]

Hey Kiljoy and welcome to the forum.  I like the before and after photos.

You wrote about the self leveling paint and that it's not a flat finish.  I always thought that the topside paint was supposed to be high gloss.  Yours looks to be high gloss in the "after" photo.  So, I would conclude you did a great job in painting the boat.  At some point, you may consider a boot stripe and/or a cove stripe.  Maybe in white.  Something to contrast the blue.

Also, consider topside paint to be just that.  Meant for the top of the side of the boat, above the waterline.  Anything below the waterline needs to be more durable.  Not necessarily antifouling paint, but something for the bottom;  hence the name you're looking for on the paint can:  bottom paint.  Storing the boat on the trailer will certainly buy you some time, so you can budget that project for another day later on down the road.

I am considering Interlux VC bottom paint for my 16.  What is the name of the color you chose for your boat?  Again, like that color.

Paul

[Killjoy]

Thanks for the kind words. The paint was Armorpoxy in (appropriately) Navy Blue.  By flat finish, I meant smooth like a gel-coat, not bumpy. I like the shine, just not the texture. But getting the look I wanted for under a hundred dollars in materials goes a long way to making it liveable and keeping my wife happy.

A friend of mine (with more money to spend) had an auto body shop spray his boat with Imron paint and it came out looking like a new factory gel coat, but the cost came close to what you can find a used cp-16 for. If you're a do-it-yourselfer, I'd suggest either spraying or using a foam roller.

I'm thinking about painting the deck to cover some spider cracks, but I'm still debating it in my head. I think the cracking is due to the fact that all the interior wood supports, except for the mast support post, were removed, but I may be wrong.
Talk to ya'll soon
Rich

[Paul]

Hey,

Thanks for letting me know.  Makes sense.

Regarding spraying, Imron is fine, but I don't know how long it would last on a boat for the same reason you state later in the post; flexing.  Marine grade paints are a better choice, IMHO.  I plan to use the roll and tip method, eventually.

Spider cracks can result from flexing.  Flexing will occur due to extreme temp changes, soft spots in the fiberglass, ill supported fiberglass, and just regular stress and strain under load (sailing).  I notice most are under the rub-rail and in the radius of the curve that is formed from the cockpit sole to the seats.  Just simple stress cracks.  Nothing but cosmetic.

Don Casey has written extensively on solving such issues.  Any web search on his name will give you sites and references to books he has written.  Good for DIY's.
$0.02

[Craig Weis]

Fiberglass is very stable at temperatures but hairline cracks will develop as the hull/deck stress and flex a bit.
Since all Com-Pac have no core to hold water and freeze and expand  this is no big deal but it sure bugs me on my boat...

So I went to WestMarine and bought a bottle of a white watery liquid crack [made in the UK]  filler and after about six applications with overnight dry time and wet sanding with the finest jeweler's rough I could find I have successfully filled my stress cracks around the bow and stern pulpits and at the bottom of the companionway hatch, where the drop boards [I cut my drop board in to two pieces on a 45 deg to keep dew and rain water out and for partical openings and for easy storage.] seat.

I have found that many of these cracks rub out and fill using Chrome Polish from any auto supply house. Happy rubbing. skip.

[multimedia_smith]

HI Skipper,
Did you bleach or clean the spider cracks in any way before you filled them?  I'd like to address a couple of cosmetic spots.
I'll look for that stuff next time I'm at West... they make some great products... I just did a spot on the front of my keel from the PO and replaced a missing chunk on the corner of my companionway with West Marine Tex... that stuff is HARD as nails!
Dale

[Craig Weis]

No I don't bleach the cracks, simply by the definition of the word crack.
It is a crack in the resin surface and refracts light in such a manner that the crack appears to be black but not generally filled with dirt.

I do just wipe the area with a wet sponge and water from 'over the side'. And since this material is water base I don't worry about the chemical not performing, but just drying for a longer time.

I think there is no way to stop the creeping cracks but I do try to limit how visible they are. This material dries and has a white appearance to it. But the rubbing knocks it down to an almost opaque color, or lets the boat color come out. I don't try to overlap the crack up just bring the crack's surface up equal to the rest of the deck.

Try the chrome polish too. skip.

[B.Hart]

Hi killjoy    The boat looks great!. When I use to work in a boat yard we would brush paint the boats with imron but added a brushing reducer that helped the paint to lay out flat. It was never a sprayed looking finish, but looked good, with a great shine. Keep up the good work  BILL