Help! Battery stuck in compartment - ideas for removal?

[Seachelle]

Hi, friends!

We recently purchased our Legacy, earlier this year. Gerry, at Com-pac, let us know which type of battery to use for our boat, which I think he referred to it as a 'wheelchair battery.' We placed the battery within its intended compartment, which is situated just aft of the rode storage locker, up in the bow of the boat. The battery fits into its compartment just like a glove — so much to the point that we are now unable to get it out for storage during the wintertime.

There is no carrying handle on the battery with which to grasp the battery for removal from the compartment. The battery is super heavy, and to try to lift it with just one's fingertips is impossible. There is barely room to even get your fingertips on its sides. Also, there is little room for sticking just about anything along the sides of the battery, as it sits within the compartment. We are stumped.

I am not sure what would happen if the battery were to remain inside the boat, over the winter, during extended temps below freezing, and also below 0? I am assuming it could potentially explode (like a soda can left in a car, e.g.)?

If anyone has any suggestions — please, I'm all ears!

Thank you so much!
~ Chelle and SV Sunflower (Sunny)
2021 Com-pac Legacy
https://sailawaywithchelle.wordpress.com/

[Renae]

It should just go dead.  No boom.

[slode]

If you top off the charge before storage, its probably the best place to store it.  Batteries self discharge less in cold temps than hot.  And as long as it has some charge it wont freeze, that only happens to dead batteries.  You likely wont loose any measurable charge over the winter.

But when it does eventually come time to replace it, and you figure out how to get it out (good luck...), make sure you put a strap under the new one so you have means of getting it out when needed.

[Renae]

If you top off the charge before storage, its probably the best place to store it.  Batteries self discharge less in cold temps than hot.  And as long as it has some charge it wont freeze, that only happens to dead batteries.  You likely wont loose any measurable charge over the winter.

One Minnesotan to another, I've observed that recharging batteries in late Jan/early Feb guards against inadvertent discharge and freezing.  I leave my boat battery on a trickle charger.

[Roland of Macatawa]

Can you connect a strap between the two terminals?

[crazycarl]

Can you connect a strap between the two terminals?

this ^

[kahpho]

Make that a Non-Conductive strap, please.   ^^^

[Roland of Macatawa]

Of course, non-conductive.
They sell such straps for batteries with posts for terminals.
Such as: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Carrier-Quick-Cable-120155/dp/B00ROW9JYA

[wes]

Any auto parts store has those carrying straps in stock. Rubber strap with metal tabs on the ends that slide over the battery posts.

[Jim in TC]

Removing (as with recommended straps) will be better than leaving it, even well-charged, in the boat. It will not freeze if charged but the cold is hard on the battery, so it will have a shorter 'life' and hey, you need to find a solution sometime in the next few years so why not now? Keeping it on a trickle charger is a good practice for long life as well.

[crazycarl]

I'll add this. 
Buy a GOOD automatic charger.  Not one that goes to a trickle when fully charged, but shuts off completely.  Even a constant trickle can "cook" a battery.
Heat is a battery's worst enemy.  Wet cell batteries shouldn't be discharged more than 50% at a time, and they should be charged asap after use.  Before storage always check the fluid levels if not maintenance free.

I once read the average life span of a motorcycle battery is 2 years.  I had the same battery that came with my bike for over 20 years.  My boat batteries are from 2009 and still in use.  Proper maintenance and care will provide you a long lasting battery.

p.s.  i also have a "pulse" charger.  the pulse is to breakup any sulfication on the plates and "renew" the battery.  it works quite well. 

[Seachelle]

Oh my goodness!!!! This forum is SO amazing and I cannot thank you all enough for the incredible info, tips, and advice! THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU sooooooo much!!!   

We ended up buying a carrying strap form Amazon — will keep you all posted on how it works out!

Also, thank you heaps for the info re: the automatic chargers!

~ Chelle & SV Sunflower (Sunny)
2021 Com-pac Legacy
https://sailawaywithchelle.wordpress.com/

[wes]

Battery charging is a deep topic! If you spend the money on high quality marine deep cycle batteries (around $250 each for Trojan group 27 AGMs), it's worth investing in a "smart" charger that allows you to match the charging cycle to your specific battery(s). I have a Sterling Pro Charge installed on my CP 27. The Sterling allowed me to configure charge voltages to exactly match Trojan's recommendations. With such chargers you don't need to worry about leaving the battery connected to the charger for long periods - the charger continuously monitors the battery's state of charge and temperature and responds accordingly.

Here's a great resource to learn more about chargers, from one of the most authoritative sources you'll find:

https://marinehowto.com/installing-a-marine-battery-charger/

Wes

[Cpy23ecl]

I use a small solar panel with an MPPT solar controller during the summer on my eclipse.  The only electrical usage I normally have is my GPS chartplotter which uses very little current.  During the winter I take the battery inside and once a month use an automotive battery charger for a couple hours to make sure it stays fully charged.

Fred

[Renae]

Removing (as with recommended straps) will be better than leaving it, even well-charged, in the boat. It will not freeze if charged but the cold is hard on the battery, so it will have a shorter 'life' and hey, you need to find a solution sometime in the next few years so why not now? Keeping it on a trickle charger is a good practice for long life as well.

Cold is hard on a discharged battery.  Ionized molecules in solution decrease the freezing temperature.  When a battery discharges, these ionized molecules are no longer present in the same concentration and the freezing point rises. Since water expands as it freezes, a freezing battery will destroy the inner structure, and leaking of cells internally or externally will lead to further problems as the solutions thaw.  Freezing/thawing happens in multiple cycles during a season, and the discharged battery may well be dysfunctional in the spring or have decreased life.

The cold itself is not a problem.  The chemical processes thet degrade a battery over time actually slow in the cold, and worsen in the heat.  Freeze/thaw is the enemy, not temperature, although theoretically you could hit a temperature so low that even a well-charged battery will freeze.  We test those theoretical limits with some frequency in the upper midwest.