Suzuki 2.5 hp problem - Resolved :-)

[Scott_S]

In 2018 I purchased a new 4 stroke 2018 Suzuki 2.5 hp outboard motor. It has always been difficult to start (16-18 pulls) when the carburetor is empty. Yes, I pull the choke. Yes, I advance the throttle. Since purchase, I have used only recreational (non-ethanol) fuel. I'll take it to the lake and it takes 16-18 pulls to get it to start when leaving the boat ramp. After that it runs great and restarts on 2 pulls. Then I run the gas out of the carb and drain the carburetor bowl to take it home in my car. Then the next trip, we are back to 16-18 pulls for the first start. I took it to the shop and they restarted it without draining the bowl and as usual it restarts easily. The initial start problem persists. I think it is just taking too long for the fuel to get from the built in tank to the carburetor for the first start. Any ideas or suggestions to overcome this problem?

[Cpy23ecl]

Possibly a weak fuel pump?  Even with an empty carb it shouldn't take that many pulls.  Not a solution but a shot of starting fluid (or in a pinch wd40) should fire the engine enough to pull the gas in quicker.

Fred

[slode]

Are you priming the fuel line from the tank?  Most have a bulb to push fuel into the carb.  Pump until the bulb gets noticeably harder to compress.  If you don't have a primer bulb get one in the line.  Sucking fuel from a tank through an empty line to the carb with the engine's fuel pump alone could easily take 15+ pulls.

[Cpy23ecl]

That was my first thought too, but usually outboards that small have an internal tank and I think that's the case with this one.

Scott,

Do you still have a penguin?  I think I still have a brand new (well very old but never been used) penguin sail that I bought in the late 60's or early 70's.

Fred

[Scott_S]

That is correct, I have an internal tank and no primer bulb. A weak fuel pump could be the problem.

Oh the Penguin; Sold her long ago. It was a fun little boat. My only wooden boat. It taught me to love fiberglass, thus my 3 Com-pacs. :-)

[Cpy23ecl]

My theory has always been that God made fiberglass trees so we wouldn't have to constantly work on wooden boats :-)

Fred

[brackish]

Why are you running it dry?  If you are using non ethanol gas and hopefully a stabilizer, there is no reason to do so and it does more harm than good.  leave your whole system filled so that there is no chance for air to be in there which can cause differential temperature condensation on the inside surfaces.  In a word making water in the carb bowl.

I have a different motor, but leave it completely filled year round outside and it starts on the second pull even if I have left it for months although I try to at least start it up monthly.

IMHO.....YMMV

[kickingbug1]

why i love a 2 stroke

[Cpy23ecl]

Why are you running it dry?  If you are using non ethanol gas and hopefully a stabilizer, there is no reason to do so and it does more harm than good.  leave your whole system filled so that there is no chance for air to be in there which can cause differential temperature condensation on the inside surfaces.  In a word making water in the carb bowl.

I have a different motor, but leave it completely filled year round outside and it starts on the second pull even if I have left it for months although I try to at least start it up monthly.

IMHO.....YMMV

I've been running all my outboards (both 2 and 4 cycle) dry after every use for 30 years now and have not encountered any problems so just for my own education could you elaborate on why it does more harm than good.

Scott did say he runs it dry because he puts it in the car when he leaves for home.

Fred

[slode]

Ah, internal tank, missed that part.  Checking the fuel pump is easy.  Just pull the line at the carb and give her a couple pulls, gas should pulse out within 2-3 pulls.  If that is an issue before you go and replace the pump check the vacuum line running from the pump to the engine.  Any leak or plug in that will cause issues.  And check flow out of the petcock, the filter in that could be partially plugged.   

If fuel is getting to the carb there's one last thing I can think of.  Check that the carb seat (part the needle seats against to cut off flow into the bowl) is clean.  Chance that's partially plugged.  Could be allowing enough flow to run but restricting full flow with an empty bowl. 

[brackish]

I've been running all my outboards (both 2 and 4 cycle) dry after every use for 30 years now and have not encountered any problems so just for my own education could you elaborate on why it does more harm than good.

Scott did say he runs it dry because he puts it in the car when he leaves for home.

Fred

I missed the part about putting it in his car.  But for the other.  When you run a carb and fuel lines dry they are not "dry" they are full of air that has a relative humidity.  Depending on the amount and the temperature differential during a 24 hour period, you can condense water on the inside surfaces of the carb.  over time it can collect and degrade the aluminum, clogging up ports and jets.   Certainly if you are storing it in a temperature controlled environment that won't happen, but mine is outside all the time and often sees a 30 degree differential.  I was told this years ago and my current marina mechanic confirms it.  All I know for sure is that my 6HP sail pro sits on the mount year round and I never have to pull more than twice unless, of course, I forget to set the choke or insert the key clip. The other part of this protocol is to rotate fuel, that is change it out if you haven't used it up in six months or so.  I usually just put it in my truck.

[Scott_S]

These are good ideas.

Thank you for your input.

Scott

[MacGyver]

As a mechanic to back up Brackish statements too, he is right. I do every engine that sits in my shop year round on the dry method due to temperature control. But my little outside shed engines (lawn mower, etc) have all been the wet method application, meaning they stay full all year round, and if I have issues in the spring, I usually work through it then, IF I have issues.
Sometimes too, I will go out on some warm winter days, breaks in the weather, and start the little shed engines just to help with some flow. I do use Stabil in them though when I remember just to help ensure a better sitting environment.

All of the engines I have now are external tank engines, I remember having some issues with one internal tank engine that did the dry run method, not having that primer bulb I felt like was a issue, but it was always a bear for first starts. I think I ended up leaving fuel in it for the summers, and in a upright position so I would not have the issue. up until that point I didn't pull hard to get it started first off, I would just pull through to turn that engine over till I heard the sound change, then I would give her a real pull to get it going, or use a touch of ether (starting fluid, dont need but a little shot) to make her do the work for me.

Mac

[Scott_S]

Problem resolved. I called Suzuki in CA, they told me to take it back to my local Suzuki mechanic and have him call Suzuki and talk to their technicians. I did just that. Suzuki had my local mechanic replace the carburetor. I am back in business, thanks to Suzuki and my local dealer.

[Scott_S]

Oops, we thought the carb would fix it. After 3 weeks it took 24 pulls. I took it back to the shop, the technician said he loosened the gas cap and said it started on the 3rd pull. Great news. So we replaced the gas cap, assuming the vent was creating a vacuum in the tank. After 3 weeks I started it on the 10th pull. I'm going to loosen the gas cap, and burp it on future cold dry starts. Hopefully this will hep get the fuel from the tank to the carb for the cold dry start.