mast repair

[Desilou]

My mast is "splayed" at the hinge.
Is it safe to "bang" it back in shape?
Should I maybe heat it first?
Is there any kind of repair bracket available?

[bruce]

Congratulations, you've got a fine example of what happens when the mast is folded down with the gear at or above the hinge.

Yes, you can bend the track back into shape. I've used a 1 lb. dead blow mallet, but any non-marring mallet, or block of wood, will do. I don't see any cracks or creases, so I think you'll have good results. This thread describes the process a little more. Annealing with heat generally isn't needed. Com-Pac does sell plates to reinforce the area if you think it needs it after repairs. I don't think you'll need to. They're mentioned in the thread as well.
http://cpyoa.geekworkshosting.com/forum/index.php?topic=11271.msg86942#new

[Jim in TC]

As Bruce says, not an unusual issue for the hinged mast cats! Ours had some of that when we got our 2006, as if maybe the PO realized she was lowering the mast in appropriately and stopped before it warped quite so much (but not before some minor damage). A small sledge and block of wood was equal to the task.  I would be tempted to take a file to what appear to be sharp edges in the sail track, in addition to Bruce's suggestions.

[kickingbug1]

   just curious, how did this damage happen again?

[bruce]

   just curious, how did this damage happen again?

Fortunately, I haven't experienced the damage first hand, but have seen the results on all the CP catboats. All use Dwyer masts and spars. The components vary dimensionally, but the design is consistent throughout the Dwyer line. The issue, I believe, is the leverage of a spar, either gaff or boom, on the track as the mast is folded down on the hinge. The gooseneck can't articulate enough for the spar to lay flat against the mast, and at some point the gooseneck binds and the spar levers the slide out of the track. That's a lot of force! If both spars (and slugs, sail) are stowed below the hinge and on the mast stub before folding the mast down, as intended, this drama is avoided.

I can imagine scenarios where either the boom or the gaff is the culprit, but what is curious is that the spread track always seems to be at the hinge. If you're going to screw up, and lower the mast with gear above the hinge, I can see the gaff binding well above the hinge in some cases. But I've also seen trashed goosenecks. So it may be, if the force is applied where the track is weaker and more prone to deform, i.e. at the hinge, that's where we'll see the damage. Away from the hinge, the gooseneck may be the weaker component. All conjecture, but I think leverage from a long spar is key.

[DanM]

Isn't this supposed to be the function of the "long pin"?  I believe you are supposed to insert it to hold the boom and gaff safely below the hinge, when folding down the mast, to avoid this damage.

[bruce]

Yup, that's the plan, but the damage does seem to happen fairly often. I'd guess some have dropped the sail but just didn't get everything below the hinge, and weren't using the long pin as a safety check. Using the long pin underway is one of those topics that takes on a life of its own, with strong opinions on both sides. Some use the long pin to hold the boom up before they raise the sail, giving them more headroom in the cockpit. Whatever the reason, if they later drop the sail without removing the long pin, and then lower the mast, they'll probably be a casualty.

Personally, I don't use the long pin underway, but do use it to organize my lazy jacks and peak halyard before lowering the mast. I bring them forward, loop them around the long pin, and snugged them up. Keeps the lines from getting tangled together in the sail bundle, as the lazy jacks especially are want to do. Since my long pin serves an important function for me, I'm less apt to forget it. So far anyway!