Bomar Hatch Lens and Gasket Replacement

[AnchorJockey]

I recently completed work on installing new gaskets and acrylic lenses in my C 27 Bomar hatches.  Here is what I did and what I learned.

1. If your hatch leaks, first check the o-rings in the hatch handles.  The handles come apart easily by undoing the Phillips screw.  Many leaks in hatches are caused by deteriorated o-rings.  Others here have matched replacement o-rings at the hardware store, or they can be ordered from Bomar's parent company, Pompanette, located in New Hampshire.

2. My hatch lids came out easily by removing the 2 pan head Phillips screws attaching the hinges to the frames and lenses, so I was able to take the lids home to work on them.  I covered the hatch openings with storage container lids held down with bags of play sand.

3. I needed new lenses.  You can get them from Pompanette, or do as I did and have them cut from another supplier.  I got mine from Maratime Plastics in Annapolis.  I dropped off an old one, and they cut me 2 new 1/4" acrylic lenses for $190 total.

4. I ordered the replacement gasket material from Pompanette.  I showed them pictures of the lids and they told me mine are older versions of their high profile line of hatches.  They sold me the proper gasket material, part #P2000-26.  It was $7/ft., I ordered 10ft., and for 2 hatched I had about 2 feet left over, so I think I ordered the safe amount.  They included instructions on how to install the gasket and bed the new lenses.  Pompanette customer service was very helpful!

5. I also ordered GE Ultraglaze SSG4000, the recommended structural silicone, from Amazon.  It is sold in 10 ounce caulk gun type tubes.  Cost was $17.50, much cheaper than Pompanette.  One tube was more than enough.

6. I started by cutting the old gasket our to release the old lenses, using a utility knife. The gasket pulls out but leaves behind the old sealant, which I removed using a dull knife and small dull screwdriver, finishing by using acetone to clean up what was left.

6. The new gasket was cut to length, then glued using superglue as per the instructions.  The instructions were to just glue the butt ends together, then glue the gasket to the frame at the 4 corners.

7. I then laid down a bead of the silicone on top of the gasket where the lens sits on it, all the way around.  I put down a good pencil eraser size bead.  I set the lens down on the gasket and pressed gently and evenly.  There will be a gap of about 1/8" to 3/16" between the lens and the frame on all sides (needs to be 1/8" on side where handles are, per instructions).  I let the lens sit for 24 hours so the silicone set up a little, before moving on to laying down the bead in the gap.  I left the protective paper on the topside of the lens, to act as a tape-edge for the silicone going in the gap.

8. Next, I put down masking tape on the frame edge opposite the lens.  With the lens paper on the one side, and the tape on the other, I could easily lay the silicone into the gap and not have to worry about mess.  I then carefully filled the gap with the silicone.

9. After letting the lens set for 48 hours, I removed the protective paper (be careful to hold the lens down so it does not pull away from the gasket, as the silicone will not be fully cured yet).  I then removed the masking tape from the frame.  I used my small, dull screwdriver to carefully full the little bit of silicone that found its way under the tape and on to the frame.

10.  The instructions on the silicone say it takes 7 days to fully cure, so I left the lenses sit until the full 7 days had passed.

I think they came out pretty well, and I am anxious to get them back on the boat.  I will post some pics to go along with my tale.

[AnchorJockey]

Well posting pics here is a pain, so I will put them up on the Compac Facebook page.

[wes]

Nice write up. If you'll send me the pics I'll post them in this thread for you.

Wes