Sun Cat spars

[bruce]

Com-Pac sources the spars and fittings for all their catboats, and possibly other models, from the Dwyer Aluminum Mast Co.   If it is necessary to replace a part, Com-Pac does stock some assemblies, but Dwyer also offers many components individually. For parts in assemblies, like goosenecks, once you've determined what spar section you have, refer to the detailed diagrams on their website.
https://www.dwyermast.com

To make sure that the correct part is ordered, I asked Dwyer to specify what spar sections are used for the different catboat models. For the SC, the mast is DM-375, the boom is DM-275, and the gaff is DM-1. They also generously provided dimensioned shop drawings that they said I could pass on if I thought they would be useful.

[Zephyros]

Hi Bruce,

Thanks so much for the information, it is nice to have the actual drawings. I plan to add a topping lift, lazy jacks and reefing blocks this spring so these will come in handy.

[bruce]

I had the broker's rigger set up lazy jacks when I go the boat. They function as a topping lift as well, in that they hold then boom above or at the gallows when dropping the sail. They don't have to be adjusted when the sail is up, they are slack and don't crease the sail. I set them when I raise the mast, and leave them alone. They do have to be adjusted when reefing if you want them to hold the boom up when the reefed sail is dropped.

I brought my clew reefing line forward on the boom to a lance cleat so I can reach it from the cockpit regardless of the boom location, and installed a small block on the leech cringle to reduce friction. I kept the reefing horn at the boom gooseneck, we don't have a cabin to deal with.

[Jim in TC]

Great info to have on file! Thanks!

[Zephyros]

I had the broker's rigger set up lazy jacks when I go the boat. They function as a topping lift as well.

I brought my clew reefing line forward on the boom to a lance cleat so I can reach it from the cockpit regardless of the boom location, and installed a small block on the leech cringle to reduce friction.

Hi Bruce,

Great advice, thank you, please explain more the purpose of the "small block on the leech cringle", is that to aid while reefing?

[bruce]

Yes. The cringles are nice and fat so the reefing line can turn readily, but a block reduces friction further. It took a while to find a block I liked. Small enough that it wouldn't add much weight, but still handle 3/16" line. I also wanted to be able to use a heavier Dyneema soft shackle that I'd tie (7/64"), rather than use multiple wraps of the 1/16" line they provided for lashing. I went with a Ronstan RF25109 block. The block is rated at 550 lbs MWL, and the 7/64" Dyneema has a tensile strength of 1,600 lbs. The shackle passes through the hub, so even if the block failed the reefing line is still captured. You could probably sneak 1/8" Dyneema in, tensile strength 2,500 lbs.

We don't reef much, but my wife doesn't do adventure, so I like things to go as smoothly as possible. It does help, but it certainly isn't necessary. The photo of the block installed is lame, but you get the idea.

[Zephyros]

Bruce,

Outstanding, I love replies with photos, it really helps. I will add those Ronstan blocks to my buy list. They seem heavy duty enough for my Sun Cat. Our winds on the North Texas Lakes can come up pretty fast and then your in rolling waves with a swinging boom while trying to reef so I'm trying to add hardware to increase the pleasant factor and decrease the pucker factor.

I like your Picnic Cat setup as it is similar to what I need to do on my no cabin Sun Cat Daysailer.

[bruce]

When the rigger set up my lazy jacks, he left a really long tail, by several feet. My cleat is back at the helm station, and the extra lazy jack line is coiled and bungeed to the boom, annoying but out of the way at least. I hadn't decided to cut off the extra, but was close.

We trailer full time, and after the first couple of sails and dropping the mast with the lazy jacks and halyards loose in the bundle, I was frustrated by how badly the lines would be tangled when I next raised the rig. Then I remembered that the broker had mentioned something about the lazy jacks and the long pin before lowering the mast. Sure enough, with the gaff and boom below the hinge, before dropping the mast, if I release the lazy jacks and lead them forward and loop them over the long pin and cinch then up, the tangles are greatly reduced. The same is true for the peak halyard, to a lesser extent. The throat halyard just runs up and down the mast anyway, so there is no significant slack introduced when the mast is folded down.

This has made a big difference for us.

[Zephyros]

Bruce,

Very nice, the pictures help explain your description. I've toyed with the idea of single line lazy jacks / topping lift vs the double bridle style you have. I trailer sail as well so it sort of would be a compromise from all the posts I've read where people said they just removed their lazy jacks, it gives me the topping lift I want, without the extra lazy jack legs, do you think that would be practical?

[Roland of Macatawa]

Zephyros,

I have a double, flaring to quadruple, bridle lazy-jack arrangement on my 2012 SunDayCat, and wouldn't be without it.
Was originally installed by the delivering dealer for the previous/original owner.

I trailer my boat every time I use it.
Admittedly, it is a little awkward and time consuming to adjust each time I raise the mast.
Am intending to modify the system to ease/speed its use, but have been doing greater priorities first.
Plan to put it onto its own halyard to readily slacken or tighten.
Now the length adjustment is at two horned cleats on the boom.
I will retain those to balance the length of the bridles.

This past season (my first), I reefed the sail on about 20% of my outings.
So, will be improving the reefing system before modifying the lazy-jacks.

Understand that the lazy-jack's 'rope-basket' contains the gaff spar as well as the sail upon lowering the sail.
Be careful to not allow the aft end of the gaff spar to fall hard all the way onto the deck.
My lazy-jack system prevents that as well as managing the lowered sail.


Regards, Roland

[Zephyros]

Roland,

Great information, thank you.

[bruce]

I see Roland posted before I could, with a more highly developed system!

You've got a good handle on what you want, I'd get some spare line and set some temporary attachments on the boom (maybe a c-clamp with wooden or rubber pads to improve grip and spread the load), rig blocks on any of the several available attachments at the mast head, and experiment to see if two separate topping lifts, or one continuous loop, could be positioned forward enough on the boom to capture the gaff and sail satisfactorily, while still well aft of the balance point. Less line to deal with. Two topping lifts lets you use the one to windward so fouling the gaff is less likely, but they are set individually. A continuous loop may not give you the control you want.

My lazy jacks are not a great topping lift. If the boom is tilted, the throat hangs up when dousing the sail for example, the lazy jacks adjust and will support the boom at that angle. A topping lift does one thing, lift the end of the boom.

I'd be interested to hear how your experiments go.

[DanM]

In addition to the lazy jacks, you might consider a gaff downhaul. Previous owner of our SC installed this, in addition to lazyjacks, topping lift, and jiffy reefing. What a lot of strings- he really liked projects, or maybe spaghetti! But all are useful. The gaff downhaul is a line attached to the throat, runs to a block at the base of the mast, and back to the cockpit. It's really nice to be able to just yank the gaff right down rather than clawing down the sail. As a side benefit, it pulls the gaff all the way down below the hinge, so if you forget to put in the "long pin" before you drop the mast, gaff will likely be below the hinge anyway, averting disaster. Good "idiot-proofing", which I need. The only downside is you have to make sure the downhaul is free before you hoist the sail.

[Zephyros]

Great tips from all, THANK YOU.

Now as soon as I install my new Vortex hubs, finish my new extended folding trailer tongue and install my new sail, I will pull it out of the storage unit garage and run some temp lines to try all of the above ideas.

[jdklaser]

Be aware that Suncat mast needs to be viced and cut in a jig to make the hinge line up directly.  This could mean possibly ordering from the factory.  I did.