New-to-me '79 CP-16 and a little introduction

[_JP_]

Hi everyone. Another excited new CP-16 owner here. I used this forum when researching the Com-Pac 16, so thought I'd join the group now that I'm an owner.


Some more pics:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/iPnz63mbsBwkyFNf9

(Pics aren't the best, it was about about to start raining when I got her home, and I wanted to make sure I got the tarp on quickly)


I started sailing last fall, bought a 12' O'Day Widgeon dinghy and took the family (wife and 6 year old son) sailing a few times. They enjoyed the sailing, but not the lack of stability, so I started looking for a keel boat with room to camp out on. We're regular tent campers, so a smallish cabin with 2-3 berths would work fine. We're not into racing, just want something that's not going to dump us in the drink every time there a puff.

For its length and displacement, it sounds like the CP-16 can't be beat for stability. And while we could afford a newer model that's ready for the water, I'd be afraid of "customizing" it to suit our tastes, so looked for something that needed a little work. For me, it makes no sense in cutting up and painting a newer boat that's already in good shape. If it needs too much work though, we'll never get out on the water.

Anyhow, I ended up with this girl last week. She's a '79 (same as me) with the original trailer, and '99 Johnson 3.3hp OB. 3 Sails - main/jib are newer and from a Sailrite kit, and there's a big yellow genoa. The gunwales have genoa tracks.

Previous owner was a displaced Floridian, who's trailered her down to the Florida coast a few times, and said the cruising's great down there. We plan to do the same someday. He insisted on having 13" tires for the highway, as said he's had numerous blowouts even after upgrading to 12" tires. He added he's never had an issue while riding on the 13's.

I paid $1300 for the whole setup, and $200 for new 13" tires so she'd be road worthy. Not the deal of the century I've read about on CPYOA (like, $1 for a boat?!), but I'm happy.
My plan is to get her lake ready this winter, starting with the trailer. Tongue weight is way too light right now, maybe 20 lbs or so. I purposely avoided the interstates on her ride home fearing she'd start swaying at high speeds. We'll sail a few times, and if the boat suits us, I'll then start on the cosmetics. Eventually I'd like to have a real peach that'll be housed in the garage, and be a real looker on the water.

Some details:

A portion of the bench was cut out for a hatch, and a cooler was permanently mounted underneath, making the starboard berth unusable. I'll probably remove this cooler, as I'd like to sleep there. I also prefer portable coolers. I guess I'll leave the hatch in place; what's it hurt?

The P.O. converted the cabin into one big berth (I don't have a picture of it all together). Raised plywood pieces fit on top of the stock berths, and he had cushions made to cover the whole thing. Looks OK, but the cushions are open-cell, the porta-potti can't be used, and there's no sitting headroom when this is all set up. I'll probably redo all this.

Topside gelcoat's in good shape, with exception of one area where it's cracked at a chainplate.

PO made a front hatch out of wood, which is warped and won't close properly. This will have to be replaced before she's launched.

PO added a bilge drain, which discharges though the transom (below the water line), and uses a standard drain plug to seal. I can't think of why this would be a bad idea, except for the chance that she's launched without the plug in place. Seems like this should've been standard from the factory, as bilge water has to be sponged out to be removed.


A few questions:

1)   P.O. removed the compression post and installed a plywood brace, after "consulting with Hutchins". It seems sturdy, but if this support is as good as a compression post, why wouldn't Hutchins make them all like this? Anyone else see any CP-16's without a compression post?

2)   The trailer's my first priority. It needs fenders, lights (I'm going to make a mast crutch / light bar combo), winch, winch arm, and the tilting mechanism needs service (if I'm going to use it). The frame is relatively rust free. A new trailer from Hutchins is $1900. Should I fix this one or just get a new trailer? Can I refurbish it while the boat's on it? Anyone have an aluminum trailer for their CP-16? I don't see how I could implement a folding tongue to this Magic Tilt trailer, which would really help to get it in the garage. Ideas?

3)   The PO did away with the transom mounted traveler and installed a block in the middle of the cockpit, just aft of the cabin door, for mainsheet control. I didn't check to see if he reinforced the cockpit underneath this block. Is this a good setup? Anyone else out there do this?

4)   I'm looking for some "best practices" when camp-cruising in a 16. Other than this forum (which, sorry, I haven't scrubbed completely through yet), and Burgess's "Handbook of Trailer Sailing", anyone have any specific ideas or links? I'm planning on a portable galley, cockpit tent, cockpit bed, swing away table in the cabin, etc...... I have about all the books I could find on trailer sailing, cruising, and canvas work; just haven't read through them all yet.



Any guidance and info provided would be appreciated. Rest assured, I've sent in my CPYOA initiation fee already ("It's in the mail!"), so feel free to dispense your best advice.


We'll be sailing on Lake Allatoona (NE of Atlanta) once she's halfway seaworthy.



Joe


P.S. - HAPPY HALLOWEEN
(hey, I had to try out the "glow" text modifier on something)
The idea crossed my mind about adding some flood lights on the trailer, putting a few neighbors dressed as pirates (and some beverages) in the cockpit, and towing her around the neighborhood tomorrow night during trick-or-treating, whist throwing out candy and beads to everyone, with the "Pirates of the Caribbean" theme (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QB8C8awaBhc) playing in the background. A little too short notice for this year though.

[Ken J]

Congrats on the new cp16 - not so sure about the compression post removal - I don't think that's a good idea - I would try to fix trailer - I would add fenders - I added - and cut - a foam camping mattress under the interior cushions and also use a thermarest - it is somewhat comfortable not like home but doable especially if you are used to tent camping :-)

[Jim in TC]

<<<I would try to fix trailer>>>

I agree with this, especially if you can confirm that the trailer is rated for the weight of the boat. We do not have tilt on the trailer for our Sun Cat and have not found that to be limiting in any way at the few ramps we have used.

[_JP_]

I'm 99% certain that the trailer is the original that was purchased with the boat. (Which, doesn't mean it's appropriately sized though....).

The GVWR is 1575lbs, with a carrying capacity of 1300lbs, according to the barely legible label. If I was buying new, I'd have a larger trailer. This one should do though.

I really don't see the benefit of a tilting trailer when paired with a keel boat. I understand the tilting function allows the bunks to make contact with the hull at a steeper angle, but wouldn't the keel get in the way? When retrieving, if the boat's not centered, would the keel guides be strong enough to shift the boat to center, even with it halfway out of the water?

I'm sure I'm missing something; Hutchins sold these trailers for a reason. The Magic-Tilt label stated they were made in Clearwater, probably right down the street from Hutchins. Hmmm...


Anyone use the tilt function to launch/retreive?


<EDIT> After 10 minutes of reading here, it sounds like most don't use the tilt feature. I read that the keel can get hung up on the bow roller when retrieving (as I suspected above), and that the tilt mechanism is a weak point of the whole setup. If it fails, the trailer comes apart (hopefully not while speeding down the interstate).

I'd like to convert mine to a telescoping tongue. Much simpler, and stronger. It'd fit in my garage this way, and would extend when at the ramp. Best of both worlds.

An added bonus is that the tongue can be removed and locked inside the tow vehicle while we're on the water, making trailer theft a little more difficult.

[Wayne J]

$1500 cash is an excellent price to play!

I agree fixing the trailer is the number one priority.

You should install a sound compression post also as a number two priority!

I'll ask Bob if he's received the fee!!!

Wayne   (CHEAP)

[_JP_]

...You should install a sound compression post also as a number two priority!

I didn't have a good shot before of the plywood reinforcement, so here it is.





It's 3/4" ply, and is glassed in to the cabin roof, sealed with paint. Instead of removing it, which would be more work, I plan on adding a compression post AND having this brace in place.


If I'm going to rebuild this thing, it's going to be better than new. At least that's my rationale for spending time on a fixer-upper.


Another question - the keel was fiberglassed over, and had delaminated from the cement. I though I remember PO saying he did the glassing. However, the glasswork extends all the way to the transom, which would have made this a difficult job with the cockpit sole in the way. Was this done at the factory?



Regardless, it's coming out (I've already ripped up about 1/2 of it). I'm trying to keep the keel dry, and it traps water on top of the cement.

The delaminated plywood in that picture is (was) the backing plate for the mainsheet block. I think I'm going to move the mains'l controls to the transom, as it was when stock. And remove the "lifelines" (aka trip wires) on the foredeck. More holes to fill.....



The forepeak will house the anchor rode locker (a bucket), and a deep cycle battery. I've read that these girls like some weight up front for balance, so I'm putting the heavy stuff up front.


I have lots more questions, but hesitate to ask since I haven't searched through the old forum posts yet. (Smoothing and sealing the top of the keel - use epoxy garage paint, which is made to stick to concrete? Ideas for hoist and frame for lifting the cabin top off. What's a better way to keep the cabin sole dry? Create a bilge by making a small sump in the keel to collect water, and to hold an electric bilge pump? Maybe not, as water would freeze there. Am I overthinking this?)

So many plans for this thing; I gotta keep moving on it while it's still new, and just focus on one thing at a time.

A single completed project is worth more than 20 started but unfinished ones. (Which, incidentally, approximates the ratio of the other stuff I'm working on right now....)

[_JP_]

...
Another question - the keel was fiberglassed over, and had delaminated from the cement. I though I remember PO saying he did the glassing. However, the glasswork extends all the way to the transom, which would have made this a difficult job with the cockpit sole in the way. Was this done at the factory?

...

Regardless, it's coming out (I've already ripped up about 1/2 of it). I'm trying to keep the keel dry, and it traps water on top of the cement.

Lots of answers in this posting:
http://cpyoa.geekworkshosting.com/forum/index.php?topic=4625.msg32145#msg32145

... the thin fiberglass cover over the concrete that you found under the carpet. It is only weakly tabbed to wood that supports the bunks. Cut it down the center with tin snips.  When that is removed depending on the amount of water that has accumulated in the concrete keel over the years you will most likely find loose sand, small rocks and flaking concrete. When I removed mine,(our boats are of similar vintage) I removed 40 pounds of loose material. This can be replaced with hydraulic cement . After I made a wood grate over the concrete to ventilate the sump (keel). You can also keep a deep cycle battery (60 pounds) in the storage locker forward of the compression post to offset any loss of concrete.  It is the nature of boating to get water in the cabin, so it is inevitable. Your job is to just keep it dry. Keep a sponge,  scoop (1/2 gal milk jug cut in half with cap, works great because it's flexible) and often tip the boat backwards on the trailer and water in the keel will run to that area by the lazarette. ...  Bill

Sounds like I'm on the right track. I was thinking a wooden grate also.

As I said earlier, PO installed a drain in the transom to let this water out, and she was stored covered, tilted back, with the trailer tongue in the air. Surface concrete is a little loose under this fiberglass, but is solid beneath.

[greg988]

Congrats and welcome!  Your trailer looks exactly like mine prior to the rehab so yes, I'd say that's the original.  The PO of my 16 re-built my trailer as well with the telescoping tongue and it works extremely well.  He also put an engine mount on the front of the trailer to help with weight distribution and a PVC pipe to hold the boom under the boat.  It all seems pretty well thought out.   Sharing a couple pics I have on my phone that show the engine mount and other parts of the trailer. 

[_JP_]

Congrats and welcome!  Your trailer looks exactly like mine prior to the rehab so yes, I'd say that's the original.  The PO of my 16 re-built my trailer as well with the telescoping tongue and it works extremely well.  He also put an engine mount on the front of the trailer to help with weight distribution and a PVC pipe to hold the boom under the boat.  It all seems pretty well thought out.   Sharing a couple pics I have on my phone that show the engine mount and other parts of the trailer.

Sweet looking boat. I need some more pictures! (if you don't mind)

• Telescoping tongue? How's it work? How's it built?
• It looks like the tilting hardware has all been removed, right?
• What's the trailer frame paint? Truck bed liner? It looks tough.
• I've got to rebuild my foredeck hatch. Any more pics of yours? It looks like that's a factory install, it's so clean.
• The tongue outboard mount is on my list to do, and I'm looking for ideas here as well. Pictures of that would be good.

Seems like whenever I get a free minute this past week it's raining outside. I'm itching to get working on my boat! Next up is pulling the boat off the trailer somehow, and refurb'ing the trailer in the garage.

[ameysails]

-JP-

here are the pics
we can help with dimensions
but you need to make sure the welder is a good craftsperson

[Green sailor]

I assume you have finished your rebuild on the Compac 16. I was curious how you installed the foredeck hatch. I have 1980 and the foredeck has a bit of a curve, making attachment of a hatch difficult. What did you use for your base to attach the hatch. Has a blue grey color.

Frank