Question about battery hold-downs

[mr.jadkowski]

I scored a 50 lb thrust trolling motor and battery for my CP16 for $75. I'm now trying to figure out how to secure the battery in the hull. The battery came in a battery box, but I need a way to secure the battery box with a strap or some other holding system. How is everyone else securing their batteries? I'd like to avoid drilling into the hull to add fasteners if possible.

[MKBLK]

Mr. Jad,

Good deal on the trolling motor and battery!

I mounted my battery in the CP16 just forward of the compression post. I believe this provides better balance since having a very heavy battery in the stern only causes the stern to sink even lower. I ran heavy duty "jumper" cables from the battery to the stern where my MinnKota plugs into a receptacle. The battery resides in a "battery box" and is secured to the deck via a strap (that usually comes with the box, but you could probably make your own) that is "screwed" into the plywood (no need to screw into the hull). I have also built an "egg-crate" that helps secure the battery and miscellaneous stuff around it. I use the forward area for the anchor rode/wag bag container.

One caveat: The battery is VERY heavy and is not easily handled in a 16! I can do it (I'm 75) but would prefer not to.

Marty K.
81 CP16 Pegasus

[kevin27]

You can make really secure straps by folding over 1" wide nylon strap once and screwing it down. If you get the length right, the screw bottoming out can really cinch it tight.

[moonlight]

Most marine retailers and/or sporting goods stores with a marine section sell these straps; included with the boxes, or separate if need be.
ABYC requires that battery not move more than 1" in any direction with 90lbs of force exerted in that direction; this is pure and simple safety.  You should sheath your conductors in a protective overwrap, secure them every 16", and utilize over-current protection at the source (in this case, the battery).  You'll quickly realize you'd like a permanently installed battery charger as well, so you just plug an extension cord to it and walk away.  An alternative is to use a quick disconnect plug at the trolling motor end, AND adapt same plug (male in this case, as on the trolling motor; female on the boat) to a battery charger that resides off the boat; then when on the trailer or where-ever you plug in the charger to the transom and your leads take it to the battery.

Really want to pimp it out?  Add a voltmeter visible in the cockpit; probably digital for the more discriminating eye.  12.8V is fully charged, 12.6V is 75%, 12.4V is 50%, 12.2V is 25%, 12.0V is you're sailing back to the dock.

When you're tired of lugging around group 27, 92Ah, 75# batteries ... I can set you up with a lithium alternative which provides longer run time and weighs under 30# in less space ...

[NateD]

Up in the bow is where most people mount the battery in a CP16, though some do it under the companion way to keep the weight more centered. Eye straps (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZEJ917) screwed/bolted down and 1" straps (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PL4H0O) work well.

[Damsel19]

I use a portable chager for quick turnaround when needed, but because I don't get out as often as I like I have a solar panel as my normal charging  method. A week or too between sails and Always fully charged

[H2operator]

Most marine retailers and/or sporting goods stores with a marine section sell these straps; included with the boxes, or separate if need be.
ABYC requires that battery not move more than 1" in any direction with 90lbs of force exerted in that direction; this is pure and simple safety.  You should sheath your conductors in a protective overwrap, secure them every 16", and utilize over-current protection at the source (in this case, the battery).  You'll quickly realize you'd like a permanently installed battery charger as well, so you just plug an extension cord to it and walk away.  An alternative is to use a quick disconnect plug at the trolling motor end, AND adapt same plug (male in this case, as on the trolling motor; female on the boat) to a battery charger that resides off the boat; then when on the trailer or where-ever you plug in the charger to the transom and your leads take it to the battery.

Really want to pimp it out?  Add a voltmeter visible in the cockpit; probably digital for the more discriminating eye.  12.8V is fully charged, 12.6V is 75%, 12.4V is 50%, 12.2V is 25%, 12.0V is you're sailing back to the dock.

When you're tired of lugging around group 27, 92Ah, 75# batteries ... I can set you up with a lithium alternative which provides longer run time and weighs under 30# in less space ...

Moonlight,
What's the detals on the lithium battery? Lance

[moonlight]

PM for Lithium DETAILS, or email direct info@moonlightmarine.com

Lithium Generalities:

they're going to cost you a minimum 3x lead acid or variants.

education is imperative.

safety is paramount.

understanding is key.

they're going to last you a minimum 6x lead acid or variants.

They can weigh as much as 50% less, or even more.

Their depth of discharge is greater, giving you more usable amp hours in a set.

Example: Group 27 lead variant = 92 Amp Hours of which you may use 50% or 46Ah before it's depleted to the point of suffering damage.  Weighs 63lbs.

So the Lithium equivalent is a 60Ah cell (80% depth of discharge) yielding 48Ah. Weight under 20#

[H2operator]

Thanks for the info, I'll message you details, Lance