Motor Bracket Replacement Hell- Help!!!

[Steve Caplow]

I found a replacement Garelick motor bracket on FB marketplace and set out to replace the broken one on my Sunday Cat.  In order to remove the old one you have to remove the frame around the tiller to get at the nuts on the inside of the hull.  So I removed the dozen or so screws and tried to beak the sealant under the frame using a putty knife and blade.  After hours of work I was able to get the top and sides somewhat free, but it's almost impossible to get under the bottom lip of the frame.  I'm assuming they used 4200 type sealant (hopefully not 5200), which can be softened with chemicals, but I don't think I can get it under the bottom edge.
Has anybody faced this problem and found a solution?  If so you'd be my hero!

[MarshHen]

That's a tough one. Try getting some Goofoff or other solvent into the top where you have made some progress. Also, try heating your thin, flexible, putty knife with a heat gun.  You could try heating the old bracket some as well.

Take care as these options can do some damage to the gel coat. I would tape off the surrounding area if you haven't already.

[bruce]

Dbybe removed the tiller horn in this thread. I've had good luck with an artist pallet knife described in reply #9 in getting under tightly sealed fittings.

https://cpyoa.com/forum/index.php?topic=12888.0

[Steve Caplow]

Someone on the FB group said he could reach the bolts by climbing in the lazarette. I've already dinged the gel coat more than I'd like, but I'll try this approach before I attack it with solvents and heat. Thanks!

[Jim in TC]

I don't really have anything to add to the thread that Bruce links...just that a sharp knife and diligence did indeed do the trick, but it was a truly difficult and time-consuming job the first time. I replaced it with a more forgiving sealant and the recent horn removal (for the new boom gallows stanchions) went WAY better.

[bruce]

Steve,

I'm surprised if you have found machine screws and nuts used to mount the tiller horn. Com-Pac typically used self-tapping screws in these applications, all they were trying to do is bed the flange in sealant. They usually used overly-long screws, 1 1/2" to 2", I guess to avoid carrying multiple sizes. Those can be puncture hazards in spaces used for floatation bags or storage, or to hands reaching into confined areas.

[Jim in TC]

I was not paying close enough attention to notice the description screws and nuts...in my case it was, as Bruce points out, longer than necessary self-tapping screws. Nuts on the back side in that setting would add yet another layer of difficulty.

[Steve Caplow]

Happy ending to this story! Thanks to the suggestion from the FB forum I squirmed into the lazerette and with a headlamp was able to access the nuts and swap out the motor bracket in an hour or so. It took a few more hours to reseal the horn, but now I know better than try to remove it. Thanks everyone for your ideas!