Water tank inspection port

[deisher6]

Again thanks for the scoop.  4200 it is.

Hope to have it wrapped up by Sunday.  Sure hope that there is some flex in StarBoard.

More to post later.

regards charlie

[deisher6]

Almost done!  First time that I have ever worked with StarBoard, it is very dense so cut out the top on the back of the pick up using a skill saw and a jig.  It machines pretty much like wood.  Router, table saw and skill saw all worked to shape it.





The cover is to big to fit through the hatch so I cut the top off and made replacement piece to match with a 3/8 inch lap joint made with a router.



When placed on the tank, the fit was very poor.  It was apparent that the cover needed modified so scribed a 5 inch piece to match up the aft edge of the tank.  You can see the scribed line in this picture.  Notice the large gap.



This piece was also attached with a 3/8 inch lap joint.  When test fitted it needed support so there is a screw block in the middle attached to both pieces for support.



Screwed and calked in with 3M 4200. (1.5 tubes)



Will go back tomorrow to clean up the joints with a blade and solvent.

Recommended to do differently:
1)  Make a pattern out of 1/2 inch stock of plywood, chip-board, or particleboard.  The styrofoam pattern that was used flexed enough to show a good fit.  3/4 inch StarBoard does not flex.  The new top's diagonals were within 5mm of each others length, so I think that the tank is not a regular trapezoid.  I would use an exact rigid pattern to cut the new top.

2) Starboard is expensive, glassed plywood would work as well.  Am always in a big hurry to get projects done and did not want to take the time.   The joint in the plywood could be glassed together once inside the cabin..

Other thoughts:
1)  Do not know why there were so many screws in the original.  The 5200 was enough to hold the top in place.  So used fewer screws in the new top.

2)  Just to check 'stuck' my hand against the inside joint to insure that there was some squeeze out.  There was, will check the entire seam tomorrow when it is dry.

3)  Considered epoxying the three parts of the new top together when inside the cabin.  Tested a lap joint with scrap StarBoard The epoxy was pretty tough, but was able to break it.  So went with a more flexible joint using 4200.  You are supposed to singe the edges of the StarBoard before joining them with epoxy.

4)  Checked the vent, was not working well.  Straightened out a kink in the hose and it works OK.

5)  Good to be done.  Pedestal and steering are next.  Hope that this helps.

[peterg]

Great looking job!!  Having done this on the old Beagle 2, I can appreciate the labor of love that you went through- enjoy digging into the pedestal!!

[deisher6]

Hope that this is the last post on this thread.

To test the installation filled the tank from the deck fill.  I wanted to fill it up until water came out the vent.  That was not going to happen, the tank leaked at the aft seam.  There is a foot or two of head if filled up so to the vent.  Really a bunch of pressure if you think abut it.  I drained it down about 4 inches and went sailing yesterday, placing a towel under the cushions over the aft seam.  It was a pretty lively day and it leaked with the boat heeling.  Not to much but the towel was damp.

Today opened up the seam with a dremel tool and re-caulked with 5200.

Should have run a piece of StarBoard all the way across the aft seam to support the seam instead of just 6 inches in the center.  I would have also used 5200, it seems stickier and tougher when dried.

The water is sweet without smell (=; 50 gallons of water is god ballast on a brisk day.

regards charlie

[Tim Gardner]

2 feet of water head = 4.62 psi.  The 5200 should do the trick.

TG