CP-23 Shore power inlet?

[Blown Away]

Hi Everyone, I'm installing shore power on my CP-23 and trying to determine the best location for the inlet. The most ideal location in my opinion would be inside the cockpit under the tiller just above the cockpit cushion but I see three possible problems installing it in this location A) An electrical inlet located slightly above a fuel tank definitely poses a safety issue, B) It may also pose a problem when trying to lift the seat/cover to get to the fuel tank, and C) It may be a bit difficult to hold a backup wrench in this location. Anyway, I would definitely appreciate your ideas!

[wes]

The conventional location is on the outside of the coaming on either side (usually port). Highly suggest you read this post about shore power inlets; I think it's right on. The Smart Plug receptacles and cables are now available from Defender as well as from Compass Marine. Just installed one on my 27 and it's a VAST improvement over the traditional twist-lock.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/installing_a_smart_plug

Wes

[brackish]

Several considerations..Where will it go from the inlet plug?  needs to have an easily accessible path to your AC panel/Charger.  It also needs to have a decent path to the shore power 115V dockside source.  Mine came to me as such.  It is a short and easy distance to the panel/charger and I can walk down the dock easily to plug it in. 

[Blown Away]

Thanks Wes!!!

The conventional location is on the outside of the coaming on either side (usually port). Highly suggest you read this post about shore power inlets; I think it's right on. The Smart Plug receptacles and cables are now available from Defender as well as from Compass Marine. Just installed one on my 27 and it's a VAST improvement over the traditional twist-lock.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/installing_a_smart_plug

Wes

[Blown Away]

Thanks brackish!!!

Several considerations..Where will it go from the inlet plug?  needs to have an easily accessible path to your AC panel/Charger.  It also needs to have a decent path to the shore power 115V dockside source.  Mine came to me as such.  It is a short and easy distance to the panel/charger and I can walk down the dock easily to plug it in. 

[BruceW]

My old CP-23 has no inlet. What I've been doing is running a cord from shore through front hatch, and into the cabin where I use it to charge a jumpstart battery that has plug, usb, 12-volt, etc.

What do your outlets look like inside the boat? I have other things to do on the boat first, but, hey, maybe I'll get to this some day; okay, maybe I am just wondering.

B

[Potcake boy]

I have a question: Why are you installing A/C power distribution on your boat?

My 23PH came with 110VAC distribution, and I never use it. I have a 50watt solar panel which keeps up the batteries during periods of non use. I don't have room for a microwave or electric stove. I have my boat set up to operate away from the dock so everything is based on my 12VDC system. If you need hot water, you can install a 12VDC element in a standard tank, or man up for a real "marine" model. So it seems that all the nice amenities available from 110VAC would only be useful for me when tied up to a marina.

I once had a boat that I kept on it's trailer at my house. For convenience, I install one of those female 110VAC plugs in a storage area away from the weather and installed a Genius battery charger. That made it easy to plug in when I returned home. Plus, I'd have an unlimited supply of 12VDC when plugged in.

If you need 110VAC on the go, many folks have opted for one of those compact generators. I have one of those, and never take it along. A cruising friend uses one to heat water in his 6 gallon 110VAC water heater. When we are all anchored out we know when he is getting ready for his  shower

At this point, I would consider a good heavy duty battery, say a group 31 AGM, and a solar panel. Outboard motors also provide some charging capacity.

When I lived up North and left the boat in the water in the winter, we used to run a cord onto the boat to power a light bulb which helped to keep the inside dry, but I think a lot of marinas nowadays frown on leaving boats unattended with electrical devices like heaters operating.

But on the other hand, if she is going to be a dock queen, then I'd go for 50amp service. Enough to power the A/C, ice maker, fridge, flat screen TV, microwave for popcorn, and of course party lights.

Not trying to dissuade you, just offering another perspective. Isn't it great how we can make these boats our own?

[brackish]

I have a question: Why are you installing A/C power distribution on your boat?

A very good point and I have to say that if my 23 had not already had AC installed with a panel, duplex outlets (2? what was that about, I removed one of them) a Guest 5/5 charger and a marina with dockside power, I probably would have never installed it.  But I have to admit, I really like being able to come back from a sail/cruise, plug in the boat and walk away (well not always, I put the clamp-on to my cord and all my neighbors periodically to verify neutral current flow).  I do use a 200 watt heater in the winter and it has kept my boat mildew free.  If I trusted the dockside power I would not bother to winterize, but I don't it has proven to fail during ice storms. I plug in tools when working on the boat and can do so without a long cord and adapter.  I keep an electric tea kettle in the dock box for a cup when doing winter chores on the boat. 

My longest cruise has been four nights and my bank, starting at full charge can make it for that time with minimal motor usage, never purposely for charging. 

I've seen what others have done with solar but always felt that the panel would be in the way, particularly with intermittent use of a bimini.

I've always hated being at an anchorage where a bunch of folks were running generators.  I know they are much more quiet these days, but still.....

My boat is 45 minutes away at a marina that is quite isolated and I often go up there just to do a few chores and hang out and the AC has been useful but certainly not essential.  But I already had it......might or might  not have installed it otherwise.

[brackish]

My old CP-23 has no inlet. What I've been doing is running a cord from shore through front hatch, and into the cabin where I use it to charge a jumpstart battery that has plug, usb, 12-volt, etc.

What do your outlets look like inside the boat? I have other things to do on the boat first, but, hey, maybe I'll get to this some day; okay, maybe I am just wondering.

B

Well they look like this. Appear to be a standard GFCI however that code may have changed or is being considered for marine applications.

[brackish]

Those currently considering the addition of AC might wade through this discussion thread for additional information.

http://cpyoa.geekworkshosting.com/forum/index.php?topic=7038.15

[Blown Away]

The conventional location is on the outside of the coaming on either side (usually port). Highly suggest you read this post about shore power inlets; I think it's right on. The Smart Plug receptacles and cables are now available from Defender as well as from Compass Marine. Just installed one on my 27 and it's a VAST improvement over the traditional twist-lock.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/installing_a_smart_plug

Wes

Wes,
Thanks again for the heads up! Today I ordered a Smartplug inlet and cord for the CP-23, and also a set to replace the old style set on the 32. Informative read!
Happy Sailing!

[Blown Away]

I have a question: Why are you installing A/C power distribution on your boat?

My 23PH came with 110VAC distribution, and I never use it. I have a 50watt solar panel which keeps up the batteries during periods of non use. I don't have room for a microwave or electric stove. I have my boat set up to operate away from the dock so everything is based on my 12VDC system. If you need hot water, you can install a 12VDC element in a standard tank, or man up for a real "marine" model. So it seems that all the nice amenities available from 110VAC would only be useful for me when tied up to a marina.

I once had a boat that I kept on it's trailer at my house. For convenience, I install one of those female 110VAC plugs in a storage area away from the weather and installed a Genius battery charger. That made it easy to plug in when I returned home. Plus, I'd have an unlimited supply of 12VDC when plugged in.

If you need 110VAC on the go, many folks have opted for one of those compact generators. I have one of those, and never take it along. A cruising friend uses one to heat water in his 6 gallon 110VAC water heater. When we are all anchored out we know when he is getting ready for his  shower

At this point, I would consider a good heavy duty battery, say a group 31 AGM, and a solar panel. Outboard motors also provide some charging capacity.

When I lived up North and left the boat in the water in the winter, we used to run a cord onto the boat to power a light bulb which helped to keep the inside dry, but I think a lot of marinas nowadays frown on leaving boats unattended with electrical devices like heaters operating.

But on the other hand, if she is going to be a dock queen, then I'd go for 50amp service. Enough to power the A/C, ice maker, fridge, flat screen TV, microwave for popcorn, and of course party lights.

Not trying to dissuade you, just offering another perspective. Isn't it great how we can make these boats our own?

Primarily to run the new A/C system. This boat will be kept in a wet slip during the warm months each year and we  do enjoy the benefits of Air conditioning when dockside.

[PrudenceCP23]

Attached is a picture showing where we had the shore power inlet installed last year.  It is out of the way and provides easy access as well as close wiring to our charging unit.

[PrudenceCP23]

...oops sorry, the photo is sideways - I'm not really healed that far over!

[moonlight]

A late arrival, but I'll chime in.
The side of the coaming would be typical.
And consider the long haul ... a 23 may or may not be surveyed at (eventual) sale.  There are many requirements regarding grounding (not the keel vs. mud type), bonding, and circuit protection; particularly the distance from the inlet to the first circuit protection (measured along the length of the wire) must be 120" or less.  If that's your panel board, fine.  If not, then there needs to be a circuit breaker within 10' of the inlet ...